Up at 7.30 after far too little sleep ( thank you messrs Djokovic and Nadal )
Short drive to Maharau where we pick up Aqua Water Taxi to Awaroa. Novel way of getting the boat into the water as we board the boat at the ticket office and this is then towed by tractor down to the shoreline. The tractor then reverses into deeper water, unhooks the boat and weare on our way.
Special treat as we sight seals on rocky outcrop before arriving at Awaroa Bay,a real jewel of a location. Awaroa Lodge tucked away in the bush and Tony in reception very welcoming. We have been upgraded to the Kotuku unit ( named after an endangered bird species of which only 150 remain ).
Set off on short walk to Awaroa Inlet, which high tide prevents us from crossing,and on way meet 3 Kiwis , one of whom tries to tell me that the line he has drawn in the sand indicates sacred Maori territory.I tell him I'm crossing over it anyway so he will just have to shoot me. His response- "I don't have a gun so I just offer you a beer!" I refuse this but we do have a good chat about a number of no doubt trivial matters.
Wonderful sight on way back when we come across a huge group of oystercatchers ( of the bird variety ) lined up on the beach waiting for the supermarket to open on the incoming tide ( as a ranger later put it so drolly ).
Lovely dinner at the Lodge and then off to bed with a selection of books about John Eales, Ayrton Senna and the All Blacks.
A great day to start off our stay in the Abel Tasman NP.
The Obese Ferret
Wednesday, February 1, 2012
Hanmer Springs to Motueka
Lovely brekkie served up by Theo ( wife Anna away tramping, as the Kiwis like to call bushwalking ).
Head off at 10.30 for fairly long drive north to Motueka at the southern end of the Abel Tasman Nat Park.Weather improves as we travel further north although the sandflies are a real pest whenever we stop for a short break.
Pies for lunch at a small cafe in Murchison which are surprisingly tasty in spite of their suspiciously yellow pastry. Arrive in Motueka about 3.00 and first up take walk along estuary before stocking up on provisions for next couple of days.
Thai take-away for dinner which we eat back at the Equestrian Motel, excellently run by a Alan and Lisa, a couple from the east Midlands in the UK.
G cranky re. inability to send email to Belinda on our travel plans for next year. Problem solved by my sending an SMS. Sometimes long for the days of carrier pigeons or smoke signals.
I stay awake late to see Robert Rock ( from Rugeley, my birthplace ) keep Tiger Woods and Rory McIroy at bay to win the tournament in Abu Dhabi.Aus Open not on TV at motel ( budget does not stretch to Skysports 3 ).Go to sleep with the score at 5-7,6-4,6-2,6-6 in favour of Djokovic v Nadal. Little did I know that the drama had only just started!
The Obese Ferret.
Head off at 10.30 for fairly long drive north to Motueka at the southern end of the Abel Tasman Nat Park.Weather improves as we travel further north although the sandflies are a real pest whenever we stop for a short break.
Pies for lunch at a small cafe in Murchison which are surprisingly tasty in spite of their suspiciously yellow pastry. Arrive in Motueka about 3.00 and first up take walk along estuary before stocking up on provisions for next couple of days.
Thai take-away for dinner which we eat back at the Equestrian Motel, excellently run by a Alan and Lisa, a couple from the east Midlands in the UK.
G cranky re. inability to send email to Belinda on our travel plans for next year. Problem solved by my sending an SMS. Sometimes long for the days of carrier pigeons or smoke signals.
I stay awake late to see Robert Rock ( from Rugeley, my birthplace ) keep Tiger Woods and Rory McIroy at bay to win the tournament in Abu Dhabi.Aus Open not on TV at motel ( budget does not stretch to Skysports 3 ).Go to sleep with the score at 5-7,6-4,6-2,6-6 in favour of Djokovic v Nadal. Little did I know that the drama had only just started!
The Obese Ferret.
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
New Zealand 2012
Good flight Melbourne to Christchurch if a bit bumpy coming in to land.
Do not linger in Christchurch but head north to Hanmer Springs which is very reminiscent of an alpine town. The Mira Monte B & B is delightful and the host Theo is very welcoming, offering tea and home-made cake on arrival.
Dinner at Jolly Jacks in town excellent but nowhere to see the Aus Open tennis final between Azarenka and Sharapova. In electronic terms NZ very much behind the terms and will suggest to airport authorities that they put a sign up for incoming passengers " welcome to New Zealand- please put your clocks back 20 years!"
On the credit side our drive north serves to remind us what a beautiful country this is.
Early to bed to overcome the 5 hours time difference.
The Obese Ferret.
Do not linger in Christchurch but head north to Hanmer Springs which is very reminiscent of an alpine town. The Mira Monte B & B is delightful and the host Theo is very welcoming, offering tea and home-made cake on arrival.
Dinner at Jolly Jacks in town excellent but nowhere to see the Aus Open tennis final between Azarenka and Sharapova. In electronic terms NZ very much behind the terms and will suggest to airport authorities that they put a sign up for incoming passengers " welcome to New Zealand- please put your clocks back 20 years!"
On the credit side our drive north serves to remind us what a beautiful country this is.
Early to bed to overcome the 5 hours time difference.
The Obese Ferret.
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Sunday 5th June 2011 Departure from Rome.
I am up early to walk down to the Trevi Fountain before the Madding Crowd arrives and what a delight it is to enjoy this great monument in peace and quiet.
Breakfast, a quick phone call to Craig, check out from the hotel and then set off on the long walk, past the magnificent Vittorio Emanuele 11 monument, to the statue of Garibaldi, high above the city in Il Gianicolo garden. A very strenuous climb was rewarded by a panoramic view of Rome and from this vantage point it comes as a surprise to see that The Vittorio Emanuele Monument is in fact higher than virtually all other buildings in the city, with the exception of St Peter's.
Easier walk back down to St Peter's square but time constraints mean that we have no hope of getting into the cathedral itself. Noticeable how many large-scale posters/photographs there are of the late Pope John Paul all around Rome and elsewhere in Italy and how they appear to represent the huge affection and devotion felt for this man compared to the current pontiff.
Back to the hotel for transport to the airport. Flight delayed due to bad weather in Frankfurt but one hour later we are off on a very bumpy flight.
Our 2 month stay in various parts of Europe has been truly memorable so it's now time to start planning our next adventure. G has already guaranteed that it will NOT include a 310 kms bike ride!
The Obese Ferret signing off until he can next bore you all to tears.
To those people who have followed the blog- a big 'thank you'. To everybody else- I can't help it if you don't appreciate literary genius when you see it!
Breakfast, a quick phone call to Craig, check out from the hotel and then set off on the long walk, past the magnificent Vittorio Emanuele 11 monument, to the statue of Garibaldi, high above the city in Il Gianicolo garden. A very strenuous climb was rewarded by a panoramic view of Rome and from this vantage point it comes as a surprise to see that The Vittorio Emanuele Monument is in fact higher than virtually all other buildings in the city, with the exception of St Peter's.
Easier walk back down to St Peter's square but time constraints mean that we have no hope of getting into the cathedral itself. Noticeable how many large-scale posters/photographs there are of the late Pope John Paul all around Rome and elsewhere in Italy and how they appear to represent the huge affection and devotion felt for this man compared to the current pontiff.
Back to the hotel for transport to the airport. Flight delayed due to bad weather in Frankfurt but one hour later we are off on a very bumpy flight.
Our 2 month stay in various parts of Europe has been truly memorable so it's now time to start planning our next adventure. G has already guaranteed that it will NOT include a 310 kms bike ride!
The Obese Ferret signing off until he can next bore you all to tears.
To those people who have followed the blog- a big 'thank you'. To everybody else- I can't help it if you don't appreciate literary genius when you see it!
Saturday 4th June Rome
Lovely breakfast and then it's off on our walking tour of one of the world's great cities, even with the hordes of tourists.
First port of call is The Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps, shopping of the window and real variety and then continue to the architectural wonder, the Pantheon and thence to our favourite square in Rome, the Piazza Navona. Quick visit to Castel Sant'Angelo and St Peter's ( both from the outside only ) and then it's back to P. Navona for a long-overdue drink at one of the many bars. While here we meet up with a very friendly couple, Neil, originally from Liverpool but now living in Dussledorf and his partner, Marta, born in Poland but now settled in Frankfurt.
We had a thoroughly enjoyable 2 hours with them and exchanged details for possible contact in the future. Neil is one of the few English fellows who doesn't support Man U ( he follows Everton ) so he can't be all that bad.
To finish off a super day it's back to the same restaurant where we had dined the previous day, Spiriti e Forme, and the very fine meal served certainly justified our decision to make a return visit.
A real bonus before we go back to the hotel. I had noticed on a board in Piazza Navona that Jose Carreras was due to give a free concert on the Spanish Steps that evening in honour of Pavarotti and so it was that for about 45 minutes we were treated to a performance from one of the tenor greats, in a magical location. Although brought to a premature end by heavy rain it was an evening to remember.
Can't let a day go by without a 'Gail' moment.
I was discussing with G what the other members of the Berwick group would be doing by now and when we got to Chris and Ernie Gail stated with confidence ( she always does ) that they would be taking Emma to Pisa before going on to Bologna. I questioned why they would be returning to Bologna after Pisa and Gail, getting quite feisty, said that they happened to love that area. It still escaping me why they would travel so far east again after Tuscany, Gail, by now exasperated with yours truly, explained it was because they love Beaune and that area.
G was in fact confusing Bologna with Burgundy, an understandable mistake as they both begin with B and are both in Europe!
The Obese Ferret
First port of call is The Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps, shopping of the window and real variety and then continue to the architectural wonder, the Pantheon and thence to our favourite square in Rome, the Piazza Navona. Quick visit to Castel Sant'Angelo and St Peter's ( both from the outside only ) and then it's back to P. Navona for a long-overdue drink at one of the many bars. While here we meet up with a very friendly couple, Neil, originally from Liverpool but now living in Dussledorf and his partner, Marta, born in Poland but now settled in Frankfurt.
We had a thoroughly enjoyable 2 hours with them and exchanged details for possible contact in the future. Neil is one of the few English fellows who doesn't support Man U ( he follows Everton ) so he can't be all that bad.
To finish off a super day it's back to the same restaurant where we had dined the previous day, Spiriti e Forme, and the very fine meal served certainly justified our decision to make a return visit.
A real bonus before we go back to the hotel. I had noticed on a board in Piazza Navona that Jose Carreras was due to give a free concert on the Spanish Steps that evening in honour of Pavarotti and so it was that for about 45 minutes we were treated to a performance from one of the tenor greats, in a magical location. Although brought to a premature end by heavy rain it was an evening to remember.
Can't let a day go by without a 'Gail' moment.
I was discussing with G what the other members of the Berwick group would be doing by now and when we got to Chris and Ernie Gail stated with confidence ( she always does ) that they would be taking Emma to Pisa before going on to Bologna. I questioned why they would be returning to Bologna after Pisa and Gail, getting quite feisty, said that they happened to love that area. It still escaping me why they would travel so far east again after Tuscany, Gail, by now exasperated with yours truly, explained it was because they love Beaune and that area.
G was in fact confusing Bologna with Burgundy, an understandable mistake as they both begin with B and are both in Europe!
The Obese Ferret
Friday 3rd June 2011 Anversa to Rome.
Say our goodbyes to Samantha in the office of La Porta ( we had already said cheerio to Marcello and Nunzio Marcelli, the owner the evening before ) and head off down the valley to the largest town in the area, Sulmona. Surrounded by some very high peaks, Sulmona's main claim to fame is as the birthplace of the classical poet, Ovid. It also proves to be one of the more impressive provincial towns we have seen in Abruzzo, with a great atmosphere, a magnificent main square and for once an official at the tourist office who went out of his way to provide us with detailed information, not only on Sulmona, but also on Abruzzo in general. Such assistance had been noticeably absent from all other tourist offices in Italy. Last port of call in Sulmona is the world famous Confetti Pelino factory which was founded in 1783. Sulmona is now the centre of the almond confetti business,as evidenced by the huge number of confetti retailers throughout the city.
After a couple of hours in this delightful city we head off on the trip west to the Eternal City.
The drive proves to be uneventful although the weather takes a real turn for the worse during the afternoon.
Gail and I had decided to keep our rental car until the Sunday when we were due to fly out to Frankfurt and then on to Singapore. We had told ourselves that we could park the car near to our hotel and this would give us more flexibility should we wish to travel to sights outside of Rome. Tom Tom would have it all under control and it would all be very straightforward.
All went well until we arrived at the Colloseum and found that the police had sealed off the area leading to where our hotel was located. This was not on our agenda and poor old Tom had certainly not factored it into his calculations. After more than an hour of going round in circles and seeing some of Rome's greatest monuments at least 3 times we admitted defeat, offloaded the car at the airport, and took a cab into the White Hotel near the Trevi Fountain. To our surprise we discovered that we had been within 50 metres of the hotel at least a couple of times during our Tom Tom confusion period. What happened to a good old map rather than relying on Tom whose performance had dipped markedly after we changed the voice from Australian to an Irish accent!
Hotel in great location and very friendly staff. Walk down to the Trevi Fountain and were staggered by the unbelievable number of tourists. We had never seen Rome this busy before and decided to find refuge in a lovely nearby restaurant serving quality food in a relatively quiet side-street.
Early night after planning our walking tour of Rome the next day.
The Obese Ferret.
After a couple of hours in this delightful city we head off on the trip west to the Eternal City.
The drive proves to be uneventful although the weather takes a real turn for the worse during the afternoon.
Gail and I had decided to keep our rental car until the Sunday when we were due to fly out to Frankfurt and then on to Singapore. We had told ourselves that we could park the car near to our hotel and this would give us more flexibility should we wish to travel to sights outside of Rome. Tom Tom would have it all under control and it would all be very straightforward.
All went well until we arrived at the Colloseum and found that the police had sealed off the area leading to where our hotel was located. This was not on our agenda and poor old Tom had certainly not factored it into his calculations. After more than an hour of going round in circles and seeing some of Rome's greatest monuments at least 3 times we admitted defeat, offloaded the car at the airport, and took a cab into the White Hotel near the Trevi Fountain. To our surprise we discovered that we had been within 50 metres of the hotel at least a couple of times during our Tom Tom confusion period. What happened to a good old map rather than relying on Tom whose performance had dipped markedly after we changed the voice from Australian to an Irish accent!
Hotel in great location and very friendly staff. Walk down to the Trevi Fountain and were staggered by the unbelievable number of tourists. We had never seen Rome this busy before and decided to find refuge in a lovely nearby restaurant serving quality food in a relatively quiet side-street.
Early night after planning our walking tour of Rome the next day.
The Obese Ferret.
Friday, June 3, 2011
Thursday 2nd June 2011 La Porta dei Parchi
Leave part of the wooden shutters to our room open so we wake up a lot earlier than has been the case for some time. Fairly leaden skies to start with but the forecast is for variable weather for most of the day.
Breakfast very basic but quality locally baked bread, home-made jam and ricotta cheese are ideal after considerable gluttony at last agriturismo in Peschici.
Spend some time booking a hotel near the Trevi Fountain for our last 2 nights in Rome and then walk down to the nearby village of Asverna. This turns out to be a real surprise and larger than expected. After the obligatory coffee in the square we saunter round the historic centre of this beautifully kept village.
Shortly after our arrival on the previous day we had observed a small town sitting precariously atop a high ridge behind Asverna and assumed that this was the much-vaunted town of Scanno at an altitude of 1080 metres. We, therefore, set off in the car along yet another breathtaking mountain road with yours truly psyching himself up to tackle the switchbacks. Soon find out that this town is in fact called Castrovalva and Scanno is in fact some 15 kms to the south through the awesome Gola del Sagittario, a very deep gorge through which the Sagittario river runs. The river has been damned to form the Lago di Scanno further up the gorge and the road hugs the cliff face in another of the engineering feats which have become all too familiar to us in Italy.
Some kms up the gorge we see in the distance a beautiful hilltop town which we assume again is Scanno. Wrong again! This is Villalago and its unbelievable position high above the gorge surpasses anything we have seen before. We take a quick detour into this wonderful small town and we are rewarded with a torrential downpour which in no way diminishes our enthusiasm for this unheralded gem of a town.
Now the news you have all been waiting for- yes we do arrive at Scanno which has become a real tourist centre in recent years. Put on the map by the Photographer Cartier-Bresson during WW Two who was fascinated by the traditional dresses of the local ladies Scanno is now expanding at a rapid rate, with many Alpine-style hotels and apartments springing up. Sadly, the dresses seem to have become more of a feature in a bi-annual festival although one can still see some of the more elderly ladies in the traditional garb going about their daily business.
Another exhilarating drive takes us back to the Agri and we resist the temptation ( not very strong on my part ) to tackle the very daunting drive up to Castrovalva. Decide to visit the nearby town of Cocullo whose main claim to fame is its May Processione dei Serpari which involves some intrepid characters adorning the statue of San Domenico with jewels, banknotes and live snakes. The procession has pagan origins so not sure as to when or why poor old San Dom was roped into the bizarre ritual. Marcello at the Agri had suggested that we spend some time at the museum in town which is mainly devoted to this annual event. Unfortunately, like much of Italy during this twilight period before the true season starts, it was closed. Maybe it will be open again the next day in time for it to close again for its lengthy siesta!
For once a lightish meal at the agri restaurant ( only 3 courses ! ) and in bed by 10.00 pm.
Gail moment of the day- During a walk near the River Sagittario we come across some people having a picnic lunch. Gail remarks that “ perhaps we could have a picnic here too, if only we had brought something to eat with us!”. Travel with NGI is never boring.
More tomorrow when we arrive in The Eternal City.
The Obese Ferret.
Breakfast very basic but quality locally baked bread, home-made jam and ricotta cheese are ideal after considerable gluttony at last agriturismo in Peschici.
Spend some time booking a hotel near the Trevi Fountain for our last 2 nights in Rome and then walk down to the nearby village of Asverna. This turns out to be a real surprise and larger than expected. After the obligatory coffee in the square we saunter round the historic centre of this beautifully kept village.
Shortly after our arrival on the previous day we had observed a small town sitting precariously atop a high ridge behind Asverna and assumed that this was the much-vaunted town of Scanno at an altitude of 1080 metres. We, therefore, set off in the car along yet another breathtaking mountain road with yours truly psyching himself up to tackle the switchbacks. Soon find out that this town is in fact called Castrovalva and Scanno is in fact some 15 kms to the south through the awesome Gola del Sagittario, a very deep gorge through which the Sagittario river runs. The river has been damned to form the Lago di Scanno further up the gorge and the road hugs the cliff face in another of the engineering feats which have become all too familiar to us in Italy.
Some kms up the gorge we see in the distance a beautiful hilltop town which we assume again is Scanno. Wrong again! This is Villalago and its unbelievable position high above the gorge surpasses anything we have seen before. We take a quick detour into this wonderful small town and we are rewarded with a torrential downpour which in no way diminishes our enthusiasm for this unheralded gem of a town.
Now the news you have all been waiting for- yes we do arrive at Scanno which has become a real tourist centre in recent years. Put on the map by the Photographer Cartier-Bresson during WW Two who was fascinated by the traditional dresses of the local ladies Scanno is now expanding at a rapid rate, with many Alpine-style hotels and apartments springing up. Sadly, the dresses seem to have become more of a feature in a bi-annual festival although one can still see some of the more elderly ladies in the traditional garb going about their daily business.
Another exhilarating drive takes us back to the Agri and we resist the temptation ( not very strong on my part ) to tackle the very daunting drive up to Castrovalva. Decide to visit the nearby town of Cocullo whose main claim to fame is its May Processione dei Serpari which involves some intrepid characters adorning the statue of San Domenico with jewels, banknotes and live snakes. The procession has pagan origins so not sure as to when or why poor old San Dom was roped into the bizarre ritual. Marcello at the Agri had suggested that we spend some time at the museum in town which is mainly devoted to this annual event. Unfortunately, like much of Italy during this twilight period before the true season starts, it was closed. Maybe it will be open again the next day in time for it to close again for its lengthy siesta!
For once a lightish meal at the agri restaurant ( only 3 courses ! ) and in bed by 10.00 pm.
Gail moment of the day- During a walk near the River Sagittario we come across some people having a picnic lunch. Gail remarks that “ perhaps we could have a picnic here too, if only we had brought something to eat with us!”. Travel with NGI is never boring.
More tomorrow when we arrive in The Eternal City.
The Obese Ferret.
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