More sun!
Coffee in town at our now favourite sports bar but apart from that a quiet day at the pool and around the villa eagerly anticipating the dinner being cooked for us by outside caterers in the evening.
Everyone makes an effort to to look almost presentable for the dinner with the ladies in particular in their finery. As his her wont Gail wants to take a photo of the whole group on auto delay and in my haste to assist with a surface on which to place the camera I lift up a small marble table to place it on the lawn only to find that I have lifted only the top- result one broken marble table top and a 66 year old guy's pride badly dented. The good news was that my artificial knee suffered no damage and most of the group thought that it was part of a well-planned ,if pathetic, comedy routine.
A superb dinner was had by all with the usual amount of imbibing taking place but for once the numbers dwindled surprisingly quickly and all were in bed at a more respectable time than had hitherto been the case. Either we are running out of steam or we are all starting to act our age.
Doug and Brenda say cheerio to everyone as they leave at 4.00 am the next day for St Petersburg and nobody seems interested in getting up to see them off.
The Obese Ferret
Friday, May 27, 2011
Wednesday 25th May 2011 Podere Barberino
Still the glorious weather continues.
As it is the turn of the Smiths /Irelands to cook dinner we have a quiet morning although it does include the obligatory coffee in Barberino town centre and a quick side trip to visit the local church to view yet another
Mummified saint. Unfortunately, in this case the mummy looks more like a piece of charcoal in the shape of a human and he doesn't look at all well!
Afternoon sees us off to the Pam supermarket in Poggiponsi to stock up on provisions for the evening meal. The duties are split with Ian doing the sausages, Gail the pasta , Cath the desserts and me bringing up the rear to perform the work which requires no culinary expertise, namely scraping 64 potatoes for mashing. Cath actually cuts the scraped spuds in half so that I can't claim all the credit for their preparation.
In the event, the meal is to everyone's satisfaction with the bangers and mash being welcomed after many weeks of pasta for most of the diners.
Off to bed with yours truly dreaming of a career in cooking after my stunning success in scraping the potatoes.
The Obese Ferret.
As it is the turn of the Smiths /Irelands to cook dinner we have a quiet morning although it does include the obligatory coffee in Barberino town centre and a quick side trip to visit the local church to view yet another
Mummified saint. Unfortunately, in this case the mummy looks more like a piece of charcoal in the shape of a human and he doesn't look at all well!
Afternoon sees us off to the Pam supermarket in Poggiponsi to stock up on provisions for the evening meal. The duties are split with Ian doing the sausages, Gail the pasta , Cath the desserts and me bringing up the rear to perform the work which requires no culinary expertise, namely scraping 64 potatoes for mashing. Cath actually cuts the scraped spuds in half so that I can't claim all the credit for their preparation.
In the event, the meal is to everyone's satisfaction with the bangers and mash being welcomed after many weeks of pasta for most of the diners.
Off to bed with yours truly dreaming of a career in cooking after my stunning success in scraping the potatoes.
The Obese Ferret.
Tuesday 24th May 2011 San Gimigniano and Volterra
Usual sunny start to the day and decide to take it easy after the previous day's drive to Siena.
Walk up to the small nearby town of Barberino for coffee at the Sport bar which will become our regular coffee stop over the coming days. Very friendly, welcoming staff and it's always a good sign to see the the locals frequenting a cafe.
Next few hours spent enjoying the facilities of the Podere Barberino but by afternoon we decide to take a drive with Cath and Ian to the famous town of San Gimigniano, often referred to as the ' Medieval Manhattan', with its large number of medieval towers, the highest of which is the Torre Grossa ( climbed by Ian while the rest of us enjoy drinks in the Piazza della Cisterna below.
San Gim as always packed out with hordes of tourists but there is no denying its 'wow'factor. Although fairly late in the day we continue on round the loop to Volterra, an Etruscan hill-top fortified town which all too often is over-shadowed by its neighbour San Gim but deserves closer inspection than it sometimes receives, if only for its breathtaking position overlooking the surrounding Tuscan hills.
The drive to these twin towns provides us with a reminder, if such were required, of why Tuscany has become such a tourist magnet.
Back at the villa by 7.00 pm to enjoy another lovely meal with the Fuller team preparing the starters and desserts and great pizzas coming from a pizzeria in nearby Tavarnelle. The first pizzeria owner nearly had a heart attack when he was asked for pizzas for 20 people ( his max was 3 ) so it took some time to find one capable of feeding the group, memorably described on one occasion by Gail's brother , Chip as 'good on the fang!' when attending Gail's 60th at Berwick.
A very late night sitting up with George, Ernie and others discussing the relative merits of France and Italy. ( Gail had gone to bed earlier ). Only realised when the night air hit me that I had drunk far too much and was in the giggly, slightly amorous, pre-depression state by the time I reached our room.
Gail engrossed in her book while I somehow managed to lock myself out of the bathroom and toilet when the handle came off in my hand. Go to sleep safe in the knowledge that I have destroyed the bathroom door handle, guaranteed my wife a restless night as she stresses over what will happen if she wakes up and needs to go to the loo, and reminded her what a silly old fart looks like when he arrives back home the worse-for wear!
Il Furetto Obeso e Ubriaco!
Walk up to the small nearby town of Barberino for coffee at the Sport bar which will become our regular coffee stop over the coming days. Very friendly, welcoming staff and it's always a good sign to see the the locals frequenting a cafe.
Next few hours spent enjoying the facilities of the Podere Barberino but by afternoon we decide to take a drive with Cath and Ian to the famous town of San Gimigniano, often referred to as the ' Medieval Manhattan', with its large number of medieval towers, the highest of which is the Torre Grossa ( climbed by Ian while the rest of us enjoy drinks in the Piazza della Cisterna below.
San Gim as always packed out with hordes of tourists but there is no denying its 'wow'factor. Although fairly late in the day we continue on round the loop to Volterra, an Etruscan hill-top fortified town which all too often is over-shadowed by its neighbour San Gim but deserves closer inspection than it sometimes receives, if only for its breathtaking position overlooking the surrounding Tuscan hills.
The drive to these twin towns provides us with a reminder, if such were required, of why Tuscany has become such a tourist magnet.
Back at the villa by 7.00 pm to enjoy another lovely meal with the Fuller team preparing the starters and desserts and great pizzas coming from a pizzeria in nearby Tavarnelle. The first pizzeria owner nearly had a heart attack when he was asked for pizzas for 20 people ( his max was 3 ) so it took some time to find one capable of feeding the group, memorably described on one occasion by Gail's brother , Chip as 'good on the fang!' when attending Gail's 60th at Berwick.
A very late night sitting up with George, Ernie and others discussing the relative merits of France and Italy. ( Gail had gone to bed earlier ). Only realised when the night air hit me that I had drunk far too much and was in the giggly, slightly amorous, pre-depression state by the time I reached our room.
Gail engrossed in her book while I somehow managed to lock myself out of the bathroom and toilet when the handle came off in my hand. Go to sleep safe in the knowledge that I have destroyed the bathroom door handle, guaranteed my wife a restless night as she stresses over what will happen if she wakes up and needs to go to the loo, and reminded her what a silly old fart looks like when he arrives back home the worse-for wear!
Il Furetto Obeso e Ubriaco!
Monday 23rd May 2011 Siena
Another glorious day weather-wise.
Although Gail and I had been to Siena on a previous occasion Cath and Ian Smith had never seen this impressive city so we set off mid-morning for the shortish drive south.
Parking is always notoriously difficult and the problem was aggravated this time by a home football match for Siena who had just gained promotion to Seria A. We eventually find free parking below the walls of this fortified city and walk up the hill to the centre, stopping on the way to visit the Chiesa di San Domenico. Many people make the pilgrimage to this church as it contains the somewhat macabre mummified head and thumb of Santa Caterina, the patron saint of Rome, Italy and Europe.
The hypocrisy of the church never ceases to amaze me as all the women entering the building have to cover their shoulders only to be confronted by 3 nude statues in one of the chapels.
Next stop is the truly awesome Duomo with its superb facia, marble pillars and floor inlays and frescoes.
Finally, the piece de resistance, the Piazza del Campo, home of the twice-yearly Il Palio horse race. This square remains one the great sights and we are able to find a pizza bar in a side street with a glimpse of the Palazzo in the piazza. A lunch-time venue to remember.
More strolling around the laneways and streets of Siena, tucking into Gelati and arriving back at the car satisfied with our few hours in this great city.
Lovely evening meal of Lasagna prepared by Brenda Field and Di Wilson with help from Frances, Mick, George and Doug.
Consumption of probably more wine than was good for us but a fine time was had by all.
The Obese Ferret
Although Gail and I had been to Siena on a previous occasion Cath and Ian Smith had never seen this impressive city so we set off mid-morning for the shortish drive south.
Parking is always notoriously difficult and the problem was aggravated this time by a home football match for Siena who had just gained promotion to Seria A. We eventually find free parking below the walls of this fortified city and walk up the hill to the centre, stopping on the way to visit the Chiesa di San Domenico. Many people make the pilgrimage to this church as it contains the somewhat macabre mummified head and thumb of Santa Caterina, the patron saint of Rome, Italy and Europe.
The hypocrisy of the church never ceases to amaze me as all the women entering the building have to cover their shoulders only to be confronted by 3 nude statues in one of the chapels.
Next stop is the truly awesome Duomo with its superb facia, marble pillars and floor inlays and frescoes.
Finally, the piece de resistance, the Piazza del Campo, home of the twice-yearly Il Palio horse race. This square remains one the great sights and we are able to find a pizza bar in a side street with a glimpse of the Palazzo in the piazza. A lunch-time venue to remember.
More strolling around the laneways and streets of Siena, tucking into Gelati and arriving back at the car satisfied with our few hours in this great city.
Lovely evening meal of Lasagna prepared by Brenda Field and Di Wilson with help from Frances, Mick, George and Doug.
Consumption of probably more wine than was good for us but a fine time was had by all.
The Obese Ferret
Sunday 22nd May Barberino in Chianti
Still no water available so yours truly takes a fairly cold dip in the swimming pool to freshen up a little. Quite amusing, in a masochistic sort of way, seeing a constant stream of guests carrying buckets of water to flush down the toilets.
Eventually, someone arrives and replaces a valve in the system which had been damaged by the recent electrical storm. Hot showers all round puts everyone in better frame of mind.
The day used generally to settle in to this magnificent complex and a superb evening meal of a beef casserole is prepared mainly by Bronny Fuller with some assistant from others in her team- all part of the rotation system to be used for the week.
Sit up too late but get a reasonably good night's sleep.
The Obese Ferret.
Eventually, someone arrives and replaces a valve in the system which had been damaged by the recent electrical storm. Hot showers all round puts everyone in better frame of mind.
The day used generally to settle in to this magnificent complex and a superb evening meal of a beef casserole is prepared mainly by Bronny Fuller with some assistant from others in her team- all part of the rotation system to be used for the week.
Sit up too late but get a reasonably good night's sleep.
The Obese Ferret.
Monday, May 23, 2011
Saturday 21st May 2011 Montfalco to Barberino Val d'Elsa
Wake up to a bright sunny day and the sounds of a couple doing what comes naturally ( the walls to the rooms are very thin! ). We go to breakfast, one of the best we have had during the trip, to await the arrival of any couple looking very happy with themselves. The suspects eventually arrive but we decide not to ask them if they had enjoyed their early morning exercise.
Set off up a fairly steep slope to the town centre of Montefalco, which we had visited some years earlier.
The main square remains a stereotypical Italian piazza with the locals enjoying the sunshine but the high level of predominantly British tourists reminds us that we have swopped the quieter Umbria for the far busier Toscana.
Return to the Agriturismo to spend some time by the pool and have a quick lunch. However, ever-darkening clouds persuade us to make a move earlier than we had planned and we are soon on our way north through Foligno, Perugia and along the shores of Lake Trasimeno. Tom Tom who has been so reliable to date becomes totally confused as we leave Montefalco but our faith in him is soon restored as he finally gets back on the freeway in the right direction.
We had dismissed Lake Trasimeno as rather boring on previous trips but on this occasion take a detour to Passignano on the shores of the lake. Pleasantly surprised to find an attractive lakeside town with some fine cafes, gelaterias and park areas.
Travel on the major road past Siena and Poggiponsi to arrive at the location of the property which will be our home for the next week. After a few false starts we finally manage to get through the security gates into the magnificent Podere Barberino in Chianti.
Over the next few hours we meet up with all of our friends from Melbourne and make ourselves at home. Learn the good news that Andrew Fuller proposed to Bec Lindsay in Paris and that they are now engaged.
Dinner is at a Pizzeria at walking distance to the town and we all enjoy a very good meal, despite the fact that the chef burns his hands on a saucepan, which prevents him from preparing a special pizza for Bridie.
The poor man is in some distress so with my mediocre Italian and Bec's experience as a paramedic we are able to give him some advice as to how he might alleviate the pain.
Off to bed but not before we discover that there is no water at all in any of the houses. Have to wait until the next day to address the issue.
The Obese Ferret.
Set off up a fairly steep slope to the town centre of Montefalco, which we had visited some years earlier.
The main square remains a stereotypical Italian piazza with the locals enjoying the sunshine but the high level of predominantly British tourists reminds us that we have swopped the quieter Umbria for the far busier Toscana.
Return to the Agriturismo to spend some time by the pool and have a quick lunch. However, ever-darkening clouds persuade us to make a move earlier than we had planned and we are soon on our way north through Foligno, Perugia and along the shores of Lake Trasimeno. Tom Tom who has been so reliable to date becomes totally confused as we leave Montefalco but our faith in him is soon restored as he finally gets back on the freeway in the right direction.
We had dismissed Lake Trasimeno as rather boring on previous trips but on this occasion take a detour to Passignano on the shores of the lake. Pleasantly surprised to find an attractive lakeside town with some fine cafes, gelaterias and park areas.
Travel on the major road past Siena and Poggiponsi to arrive at the location of the property which will be our home for the next week. After a few false starts we finally manage to get through the security gates into the magnificent Podere Barberino in Chianti.
Over the next few hours we meet up with all of our friends from Melbourne and make ourselves at home. Learn the good news that Andrew Fuller proposed to Bec Lindsay in Paris and that they are now engaged.
Dinner is at a Pizzeria at walking distance to the town and we all enjoy a very good meal, despite the fact that the chef burns his hands on a saucepan, which prevents him from preparing a special pizza for Bridie.
The poor man is in some distress so with my mediocre Italian and Bec's experience as a paramedic we are able to give him some advice as to how he might alleviate the pain.
Off to bed but not before we discover that there is no water at all in any of the houses. Have to wait until the next day to address the issue.
The Obese Ferret.
Saturday, May 21, 2011
Friday 2th May 2011 Ascoli Piceno to Montefalco
After the rather overcast conditions of the previous day it was great to wake up to sunny skies and higher temperatures.
Pay our bill, thank our kind hosts, Sonia and Alessio, for the previous day's gifts of sparkling wine, torta and antipasto, and then take some time out to relax by the pool before our journey north-west to Toscana.
Do not leave until close to 1.00 and take motorway in to Ascoli Piceno, road then takes us through numerous gorges to Arquata Del Tronto. We had already decided to take the more daunting road across the Sibillini mountains to Visso rather than the easier route to Norcia so shortly after leaving ADT we turn north towards Castelluccio.
By this stage the weather had taken a real turn for the worse and by Castelluccio the temperature had dropped from 26 to 9.5 degrees. To say that the road over the mountains was spectacular would be an understatement and yours truly stayed VERY focussed on the road, leaving Gail to point out the various views. Shortly before Castelluccio we arrived at the amazing Piano Grande, a high altitude plain at 1500 metres, which attracts a surprisingly high number of tourists to its horse-riding ranch. Not at all what one would expect in Italy and Le Marche continues to surprise us.
After the Passo del Gualdo at 1596 metres we take the long descent along the River Nera to the town of Visso, passing on the way Castelsantangelo with the most amazing fortress located on a hill above the town.
We then entered the area called the Valnerina, on the Umbrian side of the Monti Sibillini. This beautiful, lush valley presents such a sharp contrast to the harsh mountain regions to the east.
Finally, down on the plains we head for the Festival town of Spoleto and eventually we arrive at Agriturismo Casiano Piccolo under the walls of Montefalco, the so-called Balcone dell'Umbria.
Lovely meal at restaurant and early to bed after very taxing drive.
Le Marche has far exceeded our expectations, with some remarkable, wild scenery,friendly people and lack of tourists. It's now off to the more tourist-laden Toscana for a week of revelry with the Fullers and the BADWACAS clan.
The Obese Ferret
Pay our bill, thank our kind hosts, Sonia and Alessio, for the previous day's gifts of sparkling wine, torta and antipasto, and then take some time out to relax by the pool before our journey north-west to Toscana.
Do not leave until close to 1.00 and take motorway in to Ascoli Piceno, road then takes us through numerous gorges to Arquata Del Tronto. We had already decided to take the more daunting road across the Sibillini mountains to Visso rather than the easier route to Norcia so shortly after leaving ADT we turn north towards Castelluccio.
By this stage the weather had taken a real turn for the worse and by Castelluccio the temperature had dropped from 26 to 9.5 degrees. To say that the road over the mountains was spectacular would be an understatement and yours truly stayed VERY focussed on the road, leaving Gail to point out the various views. Shortly before Castelluccio we arrived at the amazing Piano Grande, a high altitude plain at 1500 metres, which attracts a surprisingly high number of tourists to its horse-riding ranch. Not at all what one would expect in Italy and Le Marche continues to surprise us.
After the Passo del Gualdo at 1596 metres we take the long descent along the River Nera to the town of Visso, passing on the way Castelsantangelo with the most amazing fortress located on a hill above the town.
We then entered the area called the Valnerina, on the Umbrian side of the Monti Sibillini. This beautiful, lush valley presents such a sharp contrast to the harsh mountain regions to the east.
Finally, down on the plains we head for the Festival town of Spoleto and eventually we arrive at Agriturismo Casiano Piccolo under the walls of Montefalco, the so-called Balcone dell'Umbria.
Lovely meal at restaurant and early to bed after very taxing drive.
Le Marche has far exceeded our expectations, with some remarkable, wild scenery,friendly people and lack of tourists. It's now off to the more tourist-laden Toscana for a week of revelry with the Fullers and the BADWACAS clan.
The Obese Ferret
Friday, May 20, 2011
Thursday 19th May 2011 Agriturismo Castrum
Our 38th Wedding Anniversary!
Have haircut at the same hairdresser who had coloured Gail's hair the day before. Asked him if he could also colour mine but did not have sufficient dye to cover all of the grey!
Set off late morning, heading for Montefortino in the foothills of the Sibillini mountains on the eastern side of the range.
We have run out of superlatives for the scenery in the southern part of Le Marche and Montefortino is another delightful hilltop town. We take a detour along the Ambro river to the sanctuary of the Madonna dell'Ambro. Set a beautiful area surrounded by high peaks this apparently marks the spot where an apparition from the Virgin Mary enabled a young mute shepherdess to speak again. Even an old sceptic like myself has to admit that the bronze statues along the banks of the river to commemorate this event are quite beautiful,especially given their tranquil location.
We stopped to have a picnic lunch by the river and had our own apparition as a group of Italian teenagers descended on the area on what I have come to call 'Hormone Express' outings. We have a new-found admiration for the long-suffering teachers.
Further south we drive to the Gola dell' Infernaccio, a huge deep gorge, reached after a drive and fairly short walk. I ventured slightly further into the gorge than Gail but, surrounded by evidence of numerous landslides I didn't linger any longer than necessary.
Next stop was the town of Montemonaco, which surpassed any of the previous seen on our trip in terms of its location, perched atop a narrow ridge with very high peaks in all directions, including Mount Vettore, the highest in the Sibillinis at 2476 metres. We decide to forgo a drive to the top of Mt Sibilla, firstly because the road might be tough for the rental and secondly because I am a wimp when it comes to high exposed mountain roads.
We continue on the road south to Arquata del Trento passing through increasingly stunning mountain scenery, arriving back at Ascoli Piceno in time for a pre-dinner drink in the superb Piazza del Popolo.
Wonderful anniversary dinner at La Locandiera, where we are served 7 courses as antipasto and feel so full that we are in danger of going straight from ANTIpasto to POST-mortem!
In the event we go straight to the sweets and some vino cotto ( still not really sure what it was ).
I drive home ( we only have a one driver rental ) very cautiously after too much wine although I feel comforted by one of Gail's pronouncements that she will assist me on the way home and " even when I'm drunk I still feel sober". That wouldn't sound too convincing in an Australian court so God knows how it would pan out before an Italian judge!
Arrive home at about 10.30 after a truly memorable anniversary day.
The Obese Ferret
Have haircut at the same hairdresser who had coloured Gail's hair the day before. Asked him if he could also colour mine but did not have sufficient dye to cover all of the grey!
Set off late morning, heading for Montefortino in the foothills of the Sibillini mountains on the eastern side of the range.
We have run out of superlatives for the scenery in the southern part of Le Marche and Montefortino is another delightful hilltop town. We take a detour along the Ambro river to the sanctuary of the Madonna dell'Ambro. Set a beautiful area surrounded by high peaks this apparently marks the spot where an apparition from the Virgin Mary enabled a young mute shepherdess to speak again. Even an old sceptic like myself has to admit that the bronze statues along the banks of the river to commemorate this event are quite beautiful,especially given their tranquil location.
We stopped to have a picnic lunch by the river and had our own apparition as a group of Italian teenagers descended on the area on what I have come to call 'Hormone Express' outings. We have a new-found admiration for the long-suffering teachers.
Further south we drive to the Gola dell' Infernaccio, a huge deep gorge, reached after a drive and fairly short walk. I ventured slightly further into the gorge than Gail but, surrounded by evidence of numerous landslides I didn't linger any longer than necessary.
Next stop was the town of Montemonaco, which surpassed any of the previous seen on our trip in terms of its location, perched atop a narrow ridge with very high peaks in all directions, including Mount Vettore, the highest in the Sibillinis at 2476 metres. We decide to forgo a drive to the top of Mt Sibilla, firstly because the road might be tough for the rental and secondly because I am a wimp when it comes to high exposed mountain roads.
We continue on the road south to Arquata del Trento passing through increasingly stunning mountain scenery, arriving back at Ascoli Piceno in time for a pre-dinner drink in the superb Piazza del Popolo.
Wonderful anniversary dinner at La Locandiera, where we are served 7 courses as antipasto and feel so full that we are in danger of going straight from ANTIpasto to POST-mortem!
In the event we go straight to the sweets and some vino cotto ( still not really sure what it was ).
I drive home ( we only have a one driver rental ) very cautiously after too much wine although I feel comforted by one of Gail's pronouncements that she will assist me on the way home and " even when I'm drunk I still feel sober". That wouldn't sound too convincing in an Australian court so God knows how it would pan out before an Italian judge!
Arrive home at about 10.30 after a truly memorable anniversary day.
The Obese Ferret
Thursday, May 19, 2011
Wednesday 18th May 2011 Agriturismo Castrum
Awake to a beautiful sunny day, a welcome change after a couple of days of inclement weather.
Sonia, daughter-in-law of the owner, calls by to collect Gail and take her to a nearby village, Castel di Lama, to have her hair coloured. I stay back and enjoy an hour and a half by the swimming pool. No chance of a dip as it's real blue acorn territory ( refer to David Niven's book 'The Moon's a Balloon' ).
Coffee and cakes on Gail's return and as hairdresser has done such a good job I decide that it's time for me to have my locks shorn.
Gail, as always very confident that she knows where the hairdresser is located. We eventually come across them by accident after she has for once lost her much-vaunted ( justifiably ) sense of direction. Make an appointment for next day and drive on minor roads into Ascoli Piceno.
AP is a real delight and the Piazza del Populo, the main square, ranks among the best we have seen in Italy.
Unfortunately, our attempt to soak up the atmosphere by eating in one of the restaurants overlooking the piazza are thwarted by two camerieri who appear to be having a lunchtime feud. After 20 action-free minutes we move on to a smaller, stylish bistro where are very speedily served with quality food and wine at very reasonable prices.
Gail adds to the overall experience by managing to lock herself in the bistro's toilet and having to set off an alarm to gain her freedom. Apparently, the automatic door had gone on the blink, although I had no such problems when I went in there a little later!
Parking in AP can be problematic but we managed to find a spot a short walk from the centre. I may have overdone it a little as, stuffing just a few too many coins in the metre, we ended up with parking until 8.40 the next morning. At least we were able enjoy this fabulous place without any fear of parking fines.
G also manages to locate a manicure place as we walk back from a 1st century BC bridge over the river Tronto. I therefore, wander around this superb city for about an hour until the manicure is complete. If nothing else the exercise added to my Italian vocab.
Noticeable how the cities come to life after 5.30/6.00 pm, almost a delayed reaction after the siesta finishes at 3.45 or 4.00 pm.
Home by 8.00 and very light snack before blog/emails.
In bed by 10.30.
The Obese Ferret
Sonia, daughter-in-law of the owner, calls by to collect Gail and take her to a nearby village, Castel di Lama, to have her hair coloured. I stay back and enjoy an hour and a half by the swimming pool. No chance of a dip as it's real blue acorn territory ( refer to David Niven's book 'The Moon's a Balloon' ).
Coffee and cakes on Gail's return and as hairdresser has done such a good job I decide that it's time for me to have my locks shorn.
Gail, as always very confident that she knows where the hairdresser is located. We eventually come across them by accident after she has for once lost her much-vaunted ( justifiably ) sense of direction. Make an appointment for next day and drive on minor roads into Ascoli Piceno.
AP is a real delight and the Piazza del Populo, the main square, ranks among the best we have seen in Italy.
Unfortunately, our attempt to soak up the atmosphere by eating in one of the restaurants overlooking the piazza are thwarted by two camerieri who appear to be having a lunchtime feud. After 20 action-free minutes we move on to a smaller, stylish bistro where are very speedily served with quality food and wine at very reasonable prices.
Gail adds to the overall experience by managing to lock herself in the bistro's toilet and having to set off an alarm to gain her freedom. Apparently, the automatic door had gone on the blink, although I had no such problems when I went in there a little later!
Parking in AP can be problematic but we managed to find a spot a short walk from the centre. I may have overdone it a little as, stuffing just a few too many coins in the metre, we ended up with parking until 8.40 the next morning. At least we were able enjoy this fabulous place without any fear of parking fines.
G also manages to locate a manicure place as we walk back from a 1st century BC bridge over the river Tronto. I therefore, wander around this superb city for about an hour until the manicure is complete. If nothing else the exercise added to my Italian vocab.
Noticeable how the cities come to life after 5.30/6.00 pm, almost a delayed reaction after the siesta finishes at 3.45 or 4.00 pm.
Home by 8.00 and very light snack before blog/emails.
In bed by 10.30.
The Obese Ferret
Tuesday 17th May 2011 Agriturismo Castrum
Breakfast, catch up on washing and then walk up to village of Castorano. Shopping from pharmacy and local food store and enjoy coffee in local cafe full of local characters, where we meet an old guy who had spent over 20 years in Manchester and supports Man U. Fancy spending 20 years in a place and still not realising he is following the wrong team-obviously a slow learner. For while it's enjoyable as he regales us with stories of his time in the UK and makes his views on Signor Bellusconi well known ( all totally negative ).
However, after a while, in true Italian style, he starts to get a bit too friendly, especially towards Gail, and we take our leave, returning to the house to a lunch of prosciutto, cheese and lovely fresh bread.
In the afternoon we decide to visit the slightly larger town of Offida, about 12 kms from Castorano. The town itself is attractive as many hilltop towns are but it appears to be home to a very large number of unsavoury characters ( excluding the Irelands ). Moreover, the town looks neglected, without the community pride so evident in many of the smaller towns.
Return to pizzeria in Castorano for huge meal of antipasto and pizza.
Two bloated bodies turn in at about 10.30
However, after a while, in true Italian style, he starts to get a bit too friendly, especially towards Gail, and we take our leave, returning to the house to a lunch of prosciutto, cheese and lovely fresh bread.
In the afternoon we decide to visit the slightly larger town of Offida, about 12 kms from Castorano. The town itself is attractive as many hilltop towns are but it appears to be home to a very large number of unsavoury characters ( excluding the Irelands ). Moreover, the town looks neglected, without the community pride so evident in many of the smaller towns.
Return to pizzeria in Castorano for huge meal of antipasto and pizza.
Two bloated bodies turn in at about 10.30
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Monday 16th May 2011 Pietra to Ascoli Piceno
Pay our bill and say our goodbyes to our wonderful hosts Jenny and Mauro who have given us a stay to remember. We receive a parting gift from Jenny of a bottle of local red wine and a jar of honey, a lovely surprise.
Pietra Rosa represents the best of what agriturismo should be all about- superb location, home-cooked food from local produce generous, genial hosts who clearly enjoy what they are doing.
Our first port of call is to Gola del Furbo which in sunnier weather looks quite magnificent. We meet up with two groups of schoolchildren out on educational tours and they remind us that kids are the same the world over, noisy, happy, mischievous, a challenge for their teachers and a joy to observe.
From Fossombrone we decide to take a detour on the freeway to Fano, a coastal resort on the Adriatic.
To describe the beach as a disappointment is the understatement of the century. Gail's view in her usual subtle way " the worst beach I've ever seen". Hard to argue with her assessment as the 'beach' is totally made up of pebbles and even worse is covered with literally 1000's of brightly coloured beach umbrellas, currently unused but no doubt lying in wait for the ever-eager sun-seekers who will descend on the resort during the summer season. We leave Fano as quickly as possible, realising how blessed we are in Aus to have such coastal areas.
Continue to just south of Ancora where we head towards the south-west and the beautiful hilltop town of Macerata. For once the Lonely Planet has it right- Macerata is one of Italy's better kept secrets and is just as impressive as many Umbrian and Tuscan hill towns, but without the hordes of tourists.
Leaving Macerata we drive on to Sarnano through increasingly impressive scenery as the mountains of the Sibillini National Park come into view, still snow-capped although we are now well into spring.
After passing through the pretty village of Amandola we pick up the major road east towards our final destination of the Agriturismo Castrum at Castorano, a seemingly simple end to our day!
Wrong again! Tom Tom has been doing a great job all day and duly led us to our B and B by 7.30. He wasn't to know that the owner does not live at the accommodation so we had a bit of a wait while the owner's husband who was working in the fields phoned his wife to let us into our apartment.
Castrum is surrounded by olive groves and vineyards with snow-covered mountains in the distance and the self-catering apartment comes with all mod cons, BBQ and swimming pool although the weather is not co-operating at present. After Pietra Rosa this establishment appears rather more regimented and less of a real 'agriturismo'. However, as we find out during the evening and the next day Guiseppina Maolini, the owner, is kindness itself and does everything possible to make our stay comfortable.
Given the lateness of the hour, and the fact that my prosthetic right knee is suffering from driving a manual car over narrow winding roads for about 7 hours, we decide to eat part of next day's breakfast and get a good night's sleep.
The Obese Ferret.
Pietra Rosa represents the best of what agriturismo should be all about- superb location, home-cooked food from local produce generous, genial hosts who clearly enjoy what they are doing.
Our first port of call is to Gola del Furbo which in sunnier weather looks quite magnificent. We meet up with two groups of schoolchildren out on educational tours and they remind us that kids are the same the world over, noisy, happy, mischievous, a challenge for their teachers and a joy to observe.
From Fossombrone we decide to take a detour on the freeway to Fano, a coastal resort on the Adriatic.
To describe the beach as a disappointment is the understatement of the century. Gail's view in her usual subtle way " the worst beach I've ever seen". Hard to argue with her assessment as the 'beach' is totally made up of pebbles and even worse is covered with literally 1000's of brightly coloured beach umbrellas, currently unused but no doubt lying in wait for the ever-eager sun-seekers who will descend on the resort during the summer season. We leave Fano as quickly as possible, realising how blessed we are in Aus to have such coastal areas.
Continue to just south of Ancora where we head towards the south-west and the beautiful hilltop town of Macerata. For once the Lonely Planet has it right- Macerata is one of Italy's better kept secrets and is just as impressive as many Umbrian and Tuscan hill towns, but without the hordes of tourists.
Leaving Macerata we drive on to Sarnano through increasingly impressive scenery as the mountains of the Sibillini National Park come into view, still snow-capped although we are now well into spring.
After passing through the pretty village of Amandola we pick up the major road east towards our final destination of the Agriturismo Castrum at Castorano, a seemingly simple end to our day!
Wrong again! Tom Tom has been doing a great job all day and duly led us to our B and B by 7.30. He wasn't to know that the owner does not live at the accommodation so we had a bit of a wait while the owner's husband who was working in the fields phoned his wife to let us into our apartment.
Castrum is surrounded by olive groves and vineyards with snow-covered mountains in the distance and the self-catering apartment comes with all mod cons, BBQ and swimming pool although the weather is not co-operating at present. After Pietra Rosa this establishment appears rather more regimented and less of a real 'agriturismo'. However, as we find out during the evening and the next day Guiseppina Maolini, the owner, is kindness itself and does everything possible to make our stay comfortable.
Given the lateness of the hour, and the fact that my prosthetic right knee is suffering from driving a manual car over narrow winding roads for about 7 hours, we decide to eat part of next day's breakfast and get a good night's sleep.
The Obese Ferret.
Monday, May 16, 2011
Sunday 15th May 2011- Pietra Rosa
Breakfast a bit earlier than on previous days so that Gail could catch up on emails, banking etc while I took some time out to phone an Italian friend who lives south of Venezia to explain why on this trip we could not get to see them.
Eventually, left the house at about 11.00 am and headed south towards Fossombrone to see a couple of sights featured prominently in local guide books. The first one was Marmitte dei Giganti or Giants’s Potholes on the Metauro River. This is really a limestone gorge about 30 metres deep which has been carved out by the water over many centuries and is quite an impressive sight.
As the first spots of rain for weeks arrived we decided to drive along a back road to the town of Fossombrone for some lunch- easier said than done as the whole place appeared to have shut down but we finally managed to find a bar serving some fairly poor pastries and coffee. Set off again to see the second of the famous sites in the area, the Gola del Furbo, ( The Throat of Furbo )a magnificent gorge along the Metauro river. Unfortunately, the weather had closed in by this time and although through the heavy rain we were able to appreciate the beauty of the area we decided to head for home and return the next day for a second viewing.
Rest of afternoon spent with Gail sorting out a slideshow from the Croatian photos and generally just relaxing. Another superb dinner from Jenny, whose creativity never ceases to amaze us and a quick chat with a couple from Rotterdam who proved to be far more affable than the 4 Italians who were also in the dining room. I ate rabbit for the first time in 50 years ( quite delicious ) after overcoming a long-held prejudice from my early years.
A relatively early night in preparation for the journey south the next day to Ascoli Piceno.
The Obese Ferret.
Sunday, May 15, 2011
Saturday 14th May 2011- Pietra Rosa
Later start than usual so we only set off for San Marino at about 10.00am.
When we had told Jenny our host at Pietra Rosa that we intended to drive to San Marino she merely said “ Why ? “. Basically because it’s there and we had heard so many negative reports about this, the 3rd smallest state in the world after the Vatican and Monaco, that we had to check it out for ourselves.
Sure enough, it is something of a caricature, has a greater density of kitsch souvenirs than any other place we have visited and resembles something of a theme park. However, there is no denying that its location atop of a rocky outcrop is truly breathtaking, with 360 degree views across the surrounding areas.
As it has only one main street the visit to this nation state was over in one hour but we were both pleased to have taken the detour to this oddity at the southern tip of Emilia Romagna.
Rather than face another drive on the roadworks-plagued A 14 freeway we headed west from San Marino through some superb mountain scenery to the town of San Sepolcro. What followed next was the surprise of the day as the switchback road up from San Sepolcro to Urbania proved to be on a par with such a road as Trollstigsveien in Norway, the famous road near to the world-famous Geiranger Fjord.
The purpose of the visit to Urbania was merely to see the original home of the Centro Studi Italiani, an organisation founded by a Signor Pasotti, which now has a branch in Carlton, Melbourne, where I had attended classes over the past 3 years.
Back at Pietra Rosa for yet another fine evening meal and then on to this blog.
As we did not have any ‘Gailisms’ for the day I thought I would backtrack a couple of days when we were trying to remember the name for the boats that ply their trade on the canals of Venice ( not the gondolas ). Gail ventured that they might be ‘vendettas’ or something similar. They are in fact called ‘vaporettos’ but the thought of anyone ordering a’ vendetta’ for a while,especially in the land of the ‘Cosa Nostra’ and ‘ ndragheta’ certainly conjured up a very interesting image!
Cheers for now.
The Obese Ferret
Friday 13th May 2011 Agriturismo Pietra Rosa
We welcome the less elaborate but healthy breakfast served,after weeks of the heavier variety and after taking up Jenny’s offer to wash our clothes in her washing machine we set off on a short hike up the hills above Pietra Rosa, from which vantage point we are able to truly appreciate its unbelievable setting.
Return to house in good time to hang out the washing and then head off to the Renaissance city of Urbino.
Urbino is viewed as one of the jewels of Le Marche and on this our second visit there we are reminded once again of what it has to offer in terms of architecture, ambience ,culture and location. In contrast to Bologna it demonstrates what can be achieved with a communal sense of pride and commitment.
Back to Pietra Rosa to sort out the washing and then relax until dinner with a bit of reading and blog-writing. Also spend some time on what is becoming a popular pastime-finding the numerous factual errors in the Lonely Planet guide books.
Jenny prepared a great meal for us which includes cinghiale ( wild boar ) and battered elderberry flowers!
Only 4 guests in the dining room and not a word was spoken between ourselves and the young Italians at the next table. We are rapidly learning that the Italians are nowhere near as gregarious as one might imagine, with our host Jenny being the exception.
Amusing moment over dinner when Gail mentioned that she might like a boiled egg for breakfast the next day. The expression for boiled egg is uova alla coque which in itself is unremarkable but when she added that she would probably ask for a soft uova alla coque I wasn’t really sure whether it was a reflection of our 38 years of marriage or a glimpse of what is to come as I enter my dotage!
The Obese Ferret.
Thursday 12th May 2011 Bologna to Urbino
In fact , Gail had not done her computer work the previous evening and we decided instead to have dinner at a superb organic food restaurant serving very high quality fare in a lovely atmosphere.
After breakfast we head off to Europcar to check out our 21 day car rental, deciding to delay the pick-up time until 3.00 pm. ( in true Italian style they take a siesta from 12.45 till 3.00. Gail on computer for some time back at hotel, after which we do our overdue walking tour of Bologna.
Bologna has some wonderful buildings and magnificent arcades and porticos but we are left with the feeling that there is no real pride in the city. Graffiti abounds ( or should it be abound? ) and many of the streets and alleys are quite simply disgustingly dirty. A teacher would comment “ could do better”.
One highlight was, however, a visit to La Sorbetteria Castiglione, which has been voted the best gelateria in Italy by the Concorso Internazionale di Gelaterie. Fantastic selection and quality.
Collect car from Europcar and delighted to find that we have a BMW 120D with only 249 kms on the clock. Gail at first thinks the guy at the counter is joking as we have booked merely a compact vehicle. Whilst the BMW is certainly compact it is a great little car with plenty under the bonnet, especially in the lower gear range.
Drive down to Urbino uneventful until we get closer to the Agriturismo and Gail starts to doubt Tom Tom. After going round in circles with a map lacking in detail we ( read Gail )decide that he is after all a man to be trusted and we arrive at Pietra Rosa Agriturismo by 6.40 pm. The owners Jenny ( real Italian name Grazia ) and husband Mauro are delightful people and the B and B is in the most spectacular position high above a valley. Their dog, Baoli ( a Chinese name of unknown origin) takes a dislike to both of us but after trying to chew off one of my fingers and having a go at Gail’s legs ( obviously a canine with no taste as I think that she posseses some very nice pins ) he settles down to being merely somewhat on the nose.
Jenny speaks excellent English but I am able to practice my inadequate Italian on Mauro.
They prepare an excellent dinner with home produce, although Mauro burns his special sausages on the first attempt and the whole meal is washed down with a very tasty red from Moltepulciano. As his very rich sausages prove too much for my notoriously fragile digestive system it would perhaps have been better if he had set the whole kitchen on fire!
In bed at a respectable hour to allow our still sore limbs more time to recover.
Thursday, May 12, 2011
Wednesday 11th May 2011 Grasisce to Trieste
After breakfast Alan collects us from the Agriturismo and takes us in the van back to the railway station in Trieste from where we take the train to Venezia. We get off at Venezia Mestre while Cath and Ian continue on to Venezia S. Luzia for a 3 day stay in Venice ( meeting up with Doug and Brenda Field ).
We catch a Eurostar train from Venezia to Bologna, journey memorable, not for any interesting scenery, but by two elderly Italian ladies who clearly not reserved any seats ( seat reservation is compulsory on Eurostar ) and were moved on any number of times in a game of musical seats as passengers claimed their correct places. By half an hour out of Venezia we were eventually all settled in for the journey.
Arrive at Bologna to find that the Hotel Star Excelsior was just across the road from the station, a real relief as we were heavily laden with luggage and still somewhat footsore from the 310 kms cycling tour.
No walking tour of the city this evening so Gail does some internet work and after meal we are off to bed.
Roll on the Italian Experience!
The Obese Ferret.
PS. For any new readers of these blogs the ‘Obese Ferret’ name was given to me after I told my nephew Andy that I had put on a small amount of weight.
Tuesday 10th May 2011 Gracisce to Klostar
Breakfast at 8.00 in the superb old Konoba Marino where we have spent the night. One the best hotels on this trip, beautifully appointed and stylish antique bedrooms.
Cath understandably reluctant to take any risks which might spoil the remaining weeks of their holiday so decides to also give the cycling a miss for another day.
We all take a little time out to explore this superb old fortified town, with its unique setting high above the surrounding countryside.
There are a few ups and downs as we cycle through some very pleasant undulating scenery. Certainly this gives us some respite from the brutal climbs of previous days.
This relaxing, gentle cycling continues until we reach the ruins of Dvigrad,set high above the Lim Valley. Dvigrad was once an Istrian town controlling the road leading from the Lim Valley to the east but the last inhabitants left in the mid-17th century.
Steep descent to the valley floor,inevitably followed by an ascent on the western side of the gorge up to the village of Mrgani. Climb fairly long but less arduous than many others encountered on this trip.
After passing through any number of unremarkable small villages we finally arrive back at Klostar and the Agriturismo Matosevic, from where we had started our 7 day cycling adventure.
Usual fine home-cooked meal in the restaurant and some reminiscing over old times before turning in at about 10.00 pm.
Croatia has been a real surprise packet for all of us with the spectacular scenery surpassing all expectations and we leave this lovely country with a lasting impression of a nation finally finding her feet after the tragedy of the Balkan wars.
There is an enormous amount of untapped potential,especially in the area of tourism and one can only hope that it will still remain ‘the mediterranean as it once was” for some time in the future.
Now off to Italy after another immensely enjoyable holiday experience from the Irelands/Smiths stable which brought you The Overland Track, Tasmania, the Great Ocean Walk, Victoria and the Milford Sound and Routeburn tracks, New Zealand.
Watch this space for news of more adventures with the Travelling Wrinklies!
The Obese Ferret.
Monday 9th May-Rabac to Gracisce
I wake up very early and take an early morning stroll down to the seafront of Rabac, well ahead of the tourist hordes.
It is a beautiful town and as the advertising slogan says’ Croatia- how the Mediterrean used to be’. Long may it continue.
Breakfast at 8.00 with the news that Cath is suffering from ailments, which much to her disappointment, prevent her from cycling today. Alan will take her to Grascisce and we will meet her at the end of the day.
In view of the dangers inherent in cycling up from Rabac to Labin we take up Alan’s offer to drive us to Labin.
After stocking up with food for the day we leave Labin and travel through some very pleasant rural areas until we reach Gologorica Dol where we stop for our picnic lunch.
We then embark on the steepest and toughest climb we have encountered ( 10% ) so far, up to Gologorica village. All three of us are exhausted by the time we reach the top, with Gail in particular somewhat distressed from the heat and the exertion of such a gruelling climb.
More very pleasant rural scenery before we reach Pazin and start a tortuous climb in the direction of Gracisce, our overnight destination.
If the gradient of the climb were not enough, the volume of traffic, including some very large semi-trailers, made this section truly scary. However, we all arrived at the top unscathed with Gail doing a sterling job in such trying circumstances.
Arrive at the historic town of Gracisce by 5.30 and after catching up on the washing we meet in the hotel restaurant for a very pleasant meal.
Event of the day- Gail toppling off her bike while almost stationary on the verge of the road into a ditch in a slow- motion swan dive of which Margot Fonteyn would have been proud, followed by my bag falling off my bike shortly thereafter. For some reason my comment that “ I had lost two bags within 200 metres did not go down very well with my better half”!
Bed after writing up blog till midnight.
Sunday 8th May 2011- Buzet to Rabac
Earlier start than usual with breakfast at 7.00 am although our original plan had been to leave the hotel at 6.30 and forgo breakfast. ( More of the repercussions of this decision later )
Leaving the town of Buzet we almost immediately started the long climb up out of the valley. Along the way we came across a fellow who had spent 5 years in Melbourne and who wanted to have a good long chat about all manner of subjects. His father soon appeared to join in on the conversation and we managed to converse through a mixture of Italian, pigeon English and one or two Croat words.
Gail was delighted to receive a Mother’s Day phone call from Craig about 6 kms into our VERY long climb up to a plateau. Gail explained after the call that she was exhausted from eating a Twix bar and rushing to find her mobile when it suddenly rang.This came as a bit of a surprise to the rest of us as we always assumed that, in common with the others in our team, the fatigue was a result of the 150+ kms we had covered through some very tough terrain! Craig highly amused to be told that we had covered less than 5 kms in 2 hours!
Eventually, we pass very close to the border with Slovenia and then continue on to the aptly named town of Slum in the area of Cicarija. This region apparently has a harsh climate and is now a very sparsely populated area.
More climbing up to the plateau, soon reaching Gorna Nugla from where we had our first rather hazy sight of Istria’s highest mountain,Vojak ( 1396 metres )
At 18.1 kms we arrive at the lovely town of Roc,inhabited since prehistoric times.
In the Middle Ages Roc was the centre of Glagolitic writing. Glagolitic was the first Slavic alphabet and does not correspond to any European or Asian script.
Roc is a beautifully maintained town and on this day market stalls lined the streets, presenting a real carnival atmosphere.
Sadly, time constraints prevented us from spending more than a few minutes in Roc when we really needed a couple of hours to do justice to this fine town.
Shortly after leaving Roc we enter the Glagolitic Avenue, which covers an area of 7 kms and is dedicated to the scholars of Glagolitic writing.
At 25.7 kms we find ourselves in the town of Hum, reputedly the smallest town in the world . ( there are no doubt many attention-hungry towns which make a similar claim. )Nevertheless we enjoy our picnic lunch in this very picturesque,touristy town,perched high above the surrounding areas.
Boljun is reached at the 40 kms mark and this ancient fortified town was once the setting for the film ‘The Last Road to China’.
By now the weather has taken a turn for the worse and we are hit by a severe squall and the ever-darkening skies bring on the realisation that we run the risk of not completing the full 80 kms to Rabac before darkness ( the bikes have no lights ).
However, we press on to Vozilici and Krsan and decide to see if we can reach Nedescina, where we would make a decision on whether to call Alan, the tour operator, for an emergency pick-up to take us on to Rabac, our destination for the night.
The general consensus is that we should make the call, as it is now clear that we will not make Rabac in time. Alan arrives to collect us from Krsan and we duly arrive in Rabac at shortly after 8.30 pm.
With benefit of hindsight, the pick-up call was the only option as apart from the lack of daylight and the fatigue of the group the road down from Labin to Rabac proved to be very dangerous for cyclists.
Average meal at the hotel and then off to bed at the end of a very long day ( 64 kms covered ) with the news that Chelsea have lost to Man U 2-1, assuring the latter of their 19th Premier League title.
Moment of the day- When we arrive in Hum I come across a group of Germans having their photographs taken in front of the Hum sign. I make a comment to them in German and one of them remarks that I must be Swiss ( not the first time that my slightly Swedish accent when speaking German has confused people ). Sitting on my bike I tell them that I have in fact come from Australia. “ surely not all the way from Australia on that bike” one of them shouts out! I am still not sure if he was joking.
Saturday 7th May- Montovun to Buzet.
A group of singers who sounded like the Red Army choir kept us awake in the early hours of the morning and local workman took on the insomniacs’ shift by making a hell of a noise long before any normal person would have been out and about.
Montovun one of the real jewels of Istria,with its truly magnificent position above the surrounding countryside and lovely old buildings.
Set off down to the valley below the town and soon starting climbing up testing slopes towards Karojba and Pazin. A real shock to the system at this early hour. Over the next few hours it was really a question of ups and downs as the tour operator had warned us.
Eventally descend to the valley floor and the site of the Jezero Butoniga reservoir.
Picnic near the dam wall in idyllic surroundings lulled into a false sense of security as there followed a truly brutal cycling/walking climb northwards towards the city of truffles, Buzet.
We arrived at the top of climb suffering variously from nausea,burning limbs,sore backs and all manner of other afflictions. Only marginally less gruelling than the first day’s Groznjan climb.
However, once at the top we were rewarded by a long descent, at speed, down to Buzet.
The Hotel Fontana adequate but hardly up to the standard of the Hotel Kastel at Montovun.
Quick pizza dinner then back to the hotel only to find that there is a Croatian party going on 2 floors below rooms,and an incredibly on at that.
I’m finishing this blog at 10.45 pm and the shindig is still going full bore and sounding more and more like something from a Butlins’ Holiday Camp.
So it’s goodnight from me and goodnight from them!
Friday 6th May Buje to Montovun.
Set off at about 8.30 after very good breakfast to cycle through the hills northwest Istria. We soon find out that grocery shops are thin on the ground and Ian and I are obliged to take a relatively short but testing climb up to Oprtalj, a very impressive hilltop town, where we stock up on provisions while the ladies wait for us along the main road. At Ian’s suggestion we buy ice-creams as a surprise and these are well received by the girls.
Have a picnic lunch under vine groves on a wooden bench in a quaint village.
Noticeable that there seems to be less wealth in the farming community in these parts with quite a lot of manual work carried.
Mid-afternoon we come across the ruins of a medieval castle at Opatija and stop at a konoba ( local restaurant ) where we are served with drinks and some delicious pancakes. The food takes far longer than expected to arrive but proves to be well worth the wait.
The owner tries to fiddle me out of some change and pays the price as I Ieave him a far smaller tip than I would normally ( as Gail will attest I am usually fairly generous in that regard )
Descend again to the Mrna River valley and make the long steep ascent to the beautiful hill-top town of Montovun.
Hotel Kastel was formally a Venetian palace and makes for a very welcoming site after a fairly taxing day of cycling.
Day ends with a superb meal in the restaurant.
Another Smithy moment of the day- During a discussion on the importance of wearing bright coloured clothes for safety reasons Smithy points out that he doesn’t need to as he has such a colourful personality compared with the rest of us! When we explained that this would not be immediately clear to a driver heading his way at 100 kms per hour he said we had overlooked his natural ‘aura’ which was visible from some distance. Hopefully we won’t need to put this theory to the test.
Ian and Cathy have been put into a ‘special’ room in some sort of attic on the third floor and the only special thing about is that the shower doesn’t work properly, the promised top floor view was obscured by a huge tree and Ian had to use bandaids to cover up a blue light on their air conditioning unit which was flashing above their bed.
Turn in early to prepare for next day’s heavy bout of cycling.
Friday, May 6, 2011
Thursday 5th May
Breakfast at 8.00 and then off on the bikes, heading north through Istria.
Beautiful scenery so reminiscent of Tuscany but without the tourists. For the most part the cycling is not too taxing although Cath has some problems with her gears slipping. Ian offers to test it out for her and his response to my question as to how the test had gone was a Smithy classic " well, it's got better brakes than mine", presumably designed to reassure Cath that if the faulty gear change does cause her to have an accident the top-class brakes will stop it from being fatal.
We stop at the small town of Visnjan for coffee and mid-afternoon take a roadside break for a quick picnic before making the rather hair-raising descent to the Mirna river. ( the high number of fast-moving trucks etc only adds to the risk factor and it is not an experience enjoyed by Gail and Cath in particular).
After crossing the river we start the tortuous 6 km climb up to the beautiful hilltop town of Groznjan along a gravel road. Cath and Gail push their bikes to the top, a real achievement given the terrain, hot weather and the steep incline. Ian reaches the top through a mixture of cycling and walking and although I cycle most of the way the climb beats me as well near the summit and its Shanks Pony for me for a section.
Groznjan is a magnificent hilltop town, quite the equal of any in Italy, and the views across the valley of the River Mirna are breathtaking.
After a cold drink at a bar we continue on the town of Buje and the nearby hotel Parenzana.
Great dinner and drinks before we drag our decidedly weary limbs off to bed at 10.00pm.
Only a few hundred more kms to go!
Beautiful scenery so reminiscent of Tuscany but without the tourists. For the most part the cycling is not too taxing although Cath has some problems with her gears slipping. Ian offers to test it out for her and his response to my question as to how the test had gone was a Smithy classic " well, it's got better brakes than mine", presumably designed to reassure Cath that if the faulty gear change does cause her to have an accident the top-class brakes will stop it from being fatal.
We stop at the small town of Visnjan for coffee and mid-afternoon take a roadside break for a quick picnic before making the rather hair-raising descent to the Mirna river. ( the high number of fast-moving trucks etc only adds to the risk factor and it is not an experience enjoyed by Gail and Cath in particular).
After crossing the river we start the tortuous 6 km climb up to the beautiful hilltop town of Groznjan along a gravel road. Cath and Gail push their bikes to the top, a real achievement given the terrain, hot weather and the steep incline. Ian reaches the top through a mixture of cycling and walking and although I cycle most of the way the climb beats me as well near the summit and its Shanks Pony for me for a section.
Groznjan is a magnificent hilltop town, quite the equal of any in Italy, and the views across the valley of the River Mirna are breathtaking.
After a cold drink at a bar we continue on the town of Buje and the nearby hotel Parenzana.
Great dinner and drinks before we drag our decidedly weary limbs off to bed at 10.00pm.
Only a few hundred more kms to go!
Wednesday 4th May
After breakfast I go along with Ian ( as interpreter ) to a computer shop nearby as Ian had been having some problems connecting with the internet. Arrive there to find that the shop only opens at 3.30 pm for a few hours which seems to be taking the siesta culture a bit far.
Pack our backs and await the arrival of the mini-bus to take us to Klostar, the starting point for our 7 day bike tour of Croatia.
The bus eventually arrives at 11.30 after the driver, a Serb called Mira, had had some problems in locating
our hotel.
About a 2 hour drive which takes us out of Italy into Slovenia and then into Croatia. A minor delay at the Slovenia/Croatia border when the official notices that Cath and Ian did not have their passport stamped when entering Italy ( due to a lax official who had become embroiled in an argument with another traveller)
Gail and I both agreed that if they were detained they were on their own! This gesture of antipodean solidarity was much appreciated by the Smiths.
Arrive at our agriturismo in Klostar to be met by Milka Makosevic, the owner and a very pleasant lady.
Alan from the cycling tour operators calls in mid-afternoon to provide with a briefing, maps and introduce us to our bikes. I have decided to call mine Pippa as it is a Swedish word for f..... and that is probably how I will feel by the end of the trip!
After much testing we decide on our 4 bikes from a selection of 6. Predictably, Smithy gets some hi-tech
beast with adjustable handlebars, an ejector seat and a vibrator which massages his rear end as he cycles along. The rest of us have the equivalent of 2 wheel penny farthings.
Milka serves us with her own local white wine which is truly terrible but the lady means well.
Dinner in the evening at Milka's restaurant is a veritable 4 course feast and her red wine is a marked improvement on the earlier white offering.
We waddle off to bed for a good night's sleep in preparation for the next day's baptism of fire on the bikes.
Pack our backs and await the arrival of the mini-bus to take us to Klostar, the starting point for our 7 day bike tour of Croatia.
The bus eventually arrives at 11.30 after the driver, a Serb called Mira, had had some problems in locating
our hotel.
About a 2 hour drive which takes us out of Italy into Slovenia and then into Croatia. A minor delay at the Slovenia/Croatia border when the official notices that Cath and Ian did not have their passport stamped when entering Italy ( due to a lax official who had become embroiled in an argument with another traveller)
Gail and I both agreed that if they were detained they were on their own! This gesture of antipodean solidarity was much appreciated by the Smiths.
Arrive at our agriturismo in Klostar to be met by Milka Makosevic, the owner and a very pleasant lady.
Alan from the cycling tour operators calls in mid-afternoon to provide with a briefing, maps and introduce us to our bikes. I have decided to call mine Pippa as it is a Swedish word for f..... and that is probably how I will feel by the end of the trip!
After much testing we decide on our 4 bikes from a selection of 6. Predictably, Smithy gets some hi-tech
beast with adjustable handlebars, an ejector seat and a vibrator which massages his rear end as he cycles along. The rest of us have the equivalent of 2 wheel penny farthings.
Milka serves us with her own local white wine which is truly terrible but the lady means well.
Dinner in the evening at Milka's restaurant is a veritable 4 course feast and her red wine is a marked improvement on the earlier white offering.
We waddle off to bed for a good night's sleep in preparation for the next day's baptism of fire on the bikes.
Tuesday 3rd May
Late breakfast and then back to the city centre, stopping at the main square again for coffee at cafe Audace.
Cath and Ian then retrace our steps by visiting the Castello di San Giusto.
Rendezvous again at 3.00 for more gelato and then a tram ride up to the hills above the city. Magnificent views of Trieste from the north-east.
Fine dinner at the Buffet da Siora Rosa and then back to hotel for respectably early night.
Monday 2nd May
Woke up to remember that this decrepit old blogger had left out a few items from the previous day’s events.
Firstly, during our train journey from Venice to Trieste I was in the process of trying to delete missed and inadvertently called Craig not once but 3 times. Under normal circumstances this would have been sign of fatherly affection from across the world but unfortunately it was 3.00 am in Melbourne. A semi-comatose son had readily concurred with my observation that it was probably a bit early to be calling him and the conversation was one of the shortest ever from overseas!
I also managed to overlook the fact that on arrival in Trieste G and I had taken a stroll down the lovely Viale XX Settembre, close to the hotel and had enjoyed pasta and a drink at Madisons, a convivial bar/bistro.
Most of the above does not make for riveting reading but I didn’t wish to leave any info from my blog.
Monday a very fine day weather-wise so head off straight down to XX Settembre to indulge ourselves with gelato at Madisons. They are closed all day Monday so we check out a gelateria nearby where a truly miserable b. of a woman grudgingly serves us one scoop each of some very tasty gelato ( she appeared to be disdainful at the small value of our purchase.)
Embark on a walking tour of Trieste which turns out to be a very impressive city in a wonderful location. The Piazza dell’Unita dell’Italia is a magnificent area opening out on to the harbour front.
Next stop is the Castello di San Giusto, set high above the city and offering a glorious view of the city and the surrounding area. Unfortunately, it takes a very steep climb up steps to reach the castle but we comfortourselves with the thought that it is all good training for our Croatian cycle tour.
Back in town we enjoy a snack at another cafe on XX Settembre, explore more of the city centre and end the day dining at one of the many small restaurants just back from the waterfront and sharing a bottle of wine in a very short period of time.
After receiving a text from Ian Smith advising us of their ETA at the hotel in Trieste we hurry back to meet them, in a slightly tipsy state.
It’s great to see them again looking well if a little jet-lagged. They are keen to have a bite to eat so we go off to a pizza bar on the ever-popular XX Settembre.
Turn in early only for Cath to set off the alarm in her shower, not once but twice, thinking that it was a cord for the light. The alarm is designed for emergencies, mainly with old people in mind ,so at least it served the purpose for which it was installed!
Another Gail moment- I was complaining that she wanted to learn more Italian but would never respond to me when I tried to speak some Italian to her. She explained that she she was very happy for me to speak but I should not expect a response. Conclusion- I may as well talk to the bedroom wall or to a mirror as Gail kindly suggested as it will be just as productive.
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Sunday 1st May 2011
10.00am flight with BA to Gatwick and after a few hours in a very comfortable BA lounge fly on to Venice, arriving in time to take a bus into Venice Mestre railway station and catch the 18.23 train to Trieste.
Flat,uninspiring country as we head east from Venice but as we approach Trieste the landscape changes markedly with glimpses of snow-covered mountains near Cortino d'Ampezzo and a high escarpment to the north of the railway line.
Take a taxi to our hotel, House 5 in Via Giulia, and we are taken to the cleaners by our charisma-minus taxidriver who must be distantly related to Silvio Berlosconi. Both of us too tired and/or dumb to register that he charged us 11 euros when the meter showed 6!
Hotel in a very pleasant part of Trieste and spacious rooms very well appointed.
Go to bed happy in the knowledge that Man United have lost to Arsenal so will have something interesting to say to Smithy when he and Cath arrive the next day.
Other momentous news- Osama bin Laden has supposedly been killed in Pakistan by USA team and his body has been buried at sea. Will reserve our judgement until we are drip-fed more info by the USA.
Flat,uninspiring country as we head east from Venice but as we approach Trieste the landscape changes markedly with glimpses of snow-covered mountains near Cortino d'Ampezzo and a high escarpment to the north of the railway line.
Take a taxi to our hotel, House 5 in Via Giulia, and we are taken to the cleaners by our charisma-minus taxidriver who must be distantly related to Silvio Berlosconi. Both of us too tired and/or dumb to register that he charged us 11 euros when the meter showed 6!
Hotel in a very pleasant part of Trieste and spacious rooms very well appointed.
Go to bed happy in the knowledge that Man United have lost to Arsenal so will have something interesting to say to Smithy when he and Cath arrive the next day.
Other momentous news- Osama bin Laden has supposedly been killed in Pakistan by USA team and his body has been buried at sea. Will reserve our judgement until we are drip-fed more info by the USA.
Saturday 30th April
Say goodbye to Ian and Trina and Keith and Sue and spend the morning in Oban before catching the train back to Glasgow.
The journey back gives us an even better idea of the what a truly beautiful country Scotland is and what draws so many people to this part of the world, especially as they get closer to retirement or semi-retirement.
Bus to the airport to book into Holiday Inn Express Hotel. Not exactly 5 star but more than adequate and very convenient.
Another early night so we must by now have eaten into our sleep deficit!
The journey back gives us an even better idea of the what a truly beautiful country Scotland is and what draws so many people to this part of the world, especially as they get closer to retirement or semi-retirement.
Bus to the airport to book into Holiday Inn Express Hotel. Not exactly 5 star but more than adequate and very convenient.
Another early night so we must by now have eaten into our sleep deficit!
Friday 29th April
Time to pack up and leave the Colonsay locals to their peace and quiet.
Morning spent downloading photographs and packing clothes etc before calling two of Ian and Trina's friends, John and Pauline to watch the Royal Wedding!
As always the Brits do pageantry superbly and the young couple look very happy as they embark on their life of papparazzi, luxury and no doubt all manner of stresses and strains.
My views on the monarchy are well known but from my vantage point on the sofa, shared with messieurs Wood and McMorrine it was good to see the country receiving such a lift from the happy, if anachronistic event.
Gail and I walk from Machrins to Scalasaig and trek to the monument up above the town, returning to enjoy a snack at The Pantry.
Final drinks at the hotel before boarding the ferry back to Oban at 7.35 pm.
Very sad to say goodbye to all the friends with whom we had shared a memorable week on the island, although with Doug and Jan, Rob and Sam and Lee and Karenna due to come to Aus later this year we will receive constant reminders of our misdemeanours during the previous 8 days!
Book into guesthouse Alltavona, situated along the seafront, together with Lee and Karenna, Ian and Trina and Keith and Sue.
First truly early night since arriving on Colonsay on 22nd April.
Morning spent downloading photographs and packing clothes etc before calling two of Ian and Trina's friends, John and Pauline to watch the Royal Wedding!
As always the Brits do pageantry superbly and the young couple look very happy as they embark on their life of papparazzi, luxury and no doubt all manner of stresses and strains.
My views on the monarchy are well known but from my vantage point on the sofa, shared with messieurs Wood and McMorrine it was good to see the country receiving such a lift from the happy, if anachronistic event.
Gail and I walk from Machrins to Scalasaig and trek to the monument up above the town, returning to enjoy a snack at The Pantry.
Final drinks at the hotel before boarding the ferry back to Oban at 7.35 pm.
Very sad to say goodbye to all the friends with whom we had shared a memorable week on the island, although with Doug and Jan, Rob and Sam and Lee and Karenna due to come to Aus later this year we will receive constant reminders of our misdemeanours during the previous 8 days!
Book into guesthouse Alltavona, situated along the seafront, together with Lee and Karenna, Ian and Trina and Keith and Sue.
First truly early night since arriving on Colonsay on 22nd April.
Thursday 28th April
After slightly cloudy start the day clears up once again.
Andrew and Jan Mac give us a lift to Colonsay House, home of the laird, and although the house and gardens are not officially open at the time we manage to enter through the' back door',so to speak and do our own mini tour while the Macs visit friends on the island.
Leaving Colonsay G and I take a very enjoyable walk back to Scalasaig via Beinn nan Gudairean. 360 degrees views as we reach the top of the climb.
Meet up again with Doug and Jan in Scalasaig so stop at the hotel for a few more drinks, in spite of the barman who lacks charisma, to say the least. Doug correctly springs to his defence by pointing out that the guy behind the bar is probably just frustated by the tight rein coming from the owner, namely the laird's wife. Sadly, the hotel is on a downward spiral at present and is failing to cash in on its undoubted potential.
Gavin at the Pantry is at present is the beneficiary of their decline.
We return to Machrins to assist Gavin and his helpers to dismantle the marquee and then more lazing about in the garden.
Usual superb meal prepared by Jan Mac, Jan Forson with some help from Gail on the sweets for our farewell Colonsay dinner. This is held for the first time in the dining room around the large round table and the 8 of us are joined by Ian and Christine Harding and David and Sarah,owners of the Balnahard Farm.
A very convivial end to the day again around the open fire and just for once a reasonably early night.
Andrew and Jan Mac give us a lift to Colonsay House, home of the laird, and although the house and gardens are not officially open at the time we manage to enter through the' back door',so to speak and do our own mini tour while the Macs visit friends on the island.
Leaving Colonsay G and I take a very enjoyable walk back to Scalasaig via Beinn nan Gudairean. 360 degrees views as we reach the top of the climb.
Meet up again with Doug and Jan in Scalasaig so stop at the hotel for a few more drinks, in spite of the barman who lacks charisma, to say the least. Doug correctly springs to his defence by pointing out that the guy behind the bar is probably just frustated by the tight rein coming from the owner, namely the laird's wife. Sadly, the hotel is on a downward spiral at present and is failing to cash in on its undoubted potential.
Gavin at the Pantry is at present is the beneficiary of their decline.
We return to Machrins to assist Gavin and his helpers to dismantle the marquee and then more lazing about in the garden.
Usual superb meal prepared by Jan Mac, Jan Forson with some help from Gail on the sweets for our farewell Colonsay dinner. This is held for the first time in the dining room around the large round table and the 8 of us are joined by Ian and Christine Harding and David and Sarah,owners of the Balnahard Farm.
A very convivial end to the day again around the open fire and just for once a reasonably early night.
Tuesday, May 3, 2011
Wednesday 27th April
A bit of a lie-in on another beautiful day, albeit one with a very cold wind blowing.
Drive Kiloran Bay carpark with Andrew and Jan McMorrine and Stromer ,Ian and Trina's lovely gentle labrador and set off to walk to Balnahard Beach on north of the island. Unfortunately Stromer, after a long walk the day before, decides to down tools after a while and 'persuades' us that we should stop at the northern end of Kiloran Bay.
Eventually, we meet up with Ian and Trina on the beach after they have been to the jetty to see off Malcolm Chapman ( Lee's Father ) who had had to return to Yorkshire for work reasons.
Wine and snacks on the beach after which we walk up to Cill-a-Rubh, the house where Lee and Karenna are staying. The views from the house are truly superb and the visit affords us the opportunity to see some of Andrew's remarkable drawings of local identities.
Return home to relax over more drinks before great chilli con carne meal cooked by Doug and Jan.
Off to Colonsay Hotel for a Quiz Night which had been totally slanted towards the younger generation ( Karenna using her position as the new bride! ). Our team of geriatrics comes last with only 11.5 out of 50, not really surprising as we have never heard of the most of the rock bands featuring in the questions.
Late drinks around the table back at Machrins where we endeavour to solve all of the immigration problems of the world over still more alcohol.
In bed by 2.00 am leaving Andrew and a decidedly sleepy Doug to stay up for another 11/2 hours.
Drive Kiloran Bay carpark with Andrew and Jan McMorrine and Stromer ,Ian and Trina's lovely gentle labrador and set off to walk to Balnahard Beach on north of the island. Unfortunately Stromer, after a long walk the day before, decides to down tools after a while and 'persuades' us that we should stop at the northern end of Kiloran Bay.
Eventually, we meet up with Ian and Trina on the beach after they have been to the jetty to see off Malcolm Chapman ( Lee's Father ) who had had to return to Yorkshire for work reasons.
Wine and snacks on the beach after which we walk up to Cill-a-Rubh, the house where Lee and Karenna are staying. The views from the house are truly superb and the visit affords us the opportunity to see some of Andrew's remarkable drawings of local identities.
Return home to relax over more drinks before great chilli con carne meal cooked by Doug and Jan.
Off to Colonsay Hotel for a Quiz Night which had been totally slanted towards the younger generation ( Karenna using her position as the new bride! ). Our team of geriatrics comes last with only 11.5 out of 50, not really surprising as we have never heard of the most of the rock bands featuring in the questions.
Late drinks around the table back at Machrins where we endeavour to solve all of the immigration problems of the world over still more alcohol.
In bed by 2.00 am leaving Andrew and a decidedly sleepy Doug to stay up for another 11/2 hours.
Tuesday 26th April
A bitterly cold morning but up at 6.30 am to see off many guests including Jimmy and Janet Primrose,Donald and Helen Warden, Rita ( Trina's mum ), her sister Ingrid and her husband Paul.
9.30 trip to the island of Islay on 2 motor boats, with 12 on each. 45 pounds per head including the boat trip, bus on Islay and guided tour of the Bowmore Distillery.
Very rushed lunch and then back on boat by 2.15 for trip back to Colonsay on a by now glorious day.
Some info for trivia nights- our boat uses 60 to 80 litres of fuel per hour whilst the lifeboat that passes us uses an amazing 430 litres per hour.
Islay a lovely island but far more developed than Colonsay which is in comparison is a real haven of tranquility. Little wonder that Ian, Trina and their friends keep coming back for more.
Late afternoon spent relaxing in the garden at Machrins which seems very quiet with only 8 of us left.
9.30 trip to the island of Islay on 2 motor boats, with 12 on each. 45 pounds per head including the boat trip, bus on Islay and guided tour of the Bowmore Distillery.
Very rushed lunch and then back on boat by 2.15 for trip back to Colonsay on a by now glorious day.
Some info for trivia nights- our boat uses 60 to 80 litres of fuel per hour whilst the lifeboat that passes us uses an amazing 430 litres per hour.
Islay a lovely island but far more developed than Colonsay which is in comparison is a real haven of tranquility. Little wonder that Ian, Trina and their friends keep coming back for more.
Late afternoon spent relaxing in the garden at Machrins which seems very quiet with only 8 of us left.
Monday 25th April
Another fine day!
Most of the Machrins go to Village Hall to clean up after the ceilidh but I play 17 holes of golf with Tony and Dave. Shoot about 90 ( par 70 ) so quite happy as I have Ian's father's blade clubs. Course in somewhat better condition than in 2009 with fewer thistles but I don't expect to see it as a venue for the British Open in the foreseeable future.
At 4.00 drive down with other wedding guests to the Strand, a stretch of land between Colonsay and Oronsay, which may only be crossed at low tide.
Glorious walk makes for a lovely walk to the Oronsay Priory where we enjoy sacrilegious sandwiches and bubbly while sitting under ancient cross.
Back to Machrins and then off to Machrins Beach where the youngsters had set up a beach BBQ. Special experience with all the Chinese lanterns dotted about the dunes although at first sight we appeared to have walked in a Ku Klux Klan meeting!
Evening ends in tragi-comedy as Doug totally legless ( he had been drinking scotch through the afternoon )
by the end of the evening. We were then treated to the spectacle of Doug, assisted by an almost incapable Ian and a very sensible Rob ( Sam Wood's partner ) making a very precarious way back to the vehicle, which Doug's wife Jan was to drive home. At one stage D an Ian tried to take a short cut up a bank which was more akin to the north face of the Eiger with both falling face first into the sand. Ian's reassurance to me that " I'm not as bad as you think I am " only added to the hilarity of the occasion.
Finally back at Machrins Andrew, Ian ( now semi-sober ) Jan and I manage to manhandle the dead weight of Doug up the stairs and ono the bed.
Doug subsequently falls out of bed but he apparently has a very good night's sleep. His powers of recovery are of Olympic proportions.
In bed by 2.00 am
Most of the Machrins go to Village Hall to clean up after the ceilidh but I play 17 holes of golf with Tony and Dave. Shoot about 90 ( par 70 ) so quite happy as I have Ian's father's blade clubs. Course in somewhat better condition than in 2009 with fewer thistles but I don't expect to see it as a venue for the British Open in the foreseeable future.
At 4.00 drive down with other wedding guests to the Strand, a stretch of land between Colonsay and Oronsay, which may only be crossed at low tide.
Glorious walk makes for a lovely walk to the Oronsay Priory where we enjoy sacrilegious sandwiches and bubbly while sitting under ancient cross.
Back to Machrins and then off to Machrins Beach where the youngsters had set up a beach BBQ. Special experience with all the Chinese lanterns dotted about the dunes although at first sight we appeared to have walked in a Ku Klux Klan meeting!
Evening ends in tragi-comedy as Doug totally legless ( he had been drinking scotch through the afternoon )
by the end of the evening. We were then treated to the spectacle of Doug, assisted by an almost incapable Ian and a very sensible Rob ( Sam Wood's partner ) making a very precarious way back to the vehicle, which Doug's wife Jan was to drive home. At one stage D an Ian tried to take a short cut up a bank which was more akin to the north face of the Eiger with both falling face first into the sand. Ian's reassurance to me that " I'm not as bad as you think I am " only added to the hilarity of the occasion.
Finally back at Machrins Andrew, Ian ( now semi-sober ) Jan and I manage to manhandle the dead weight of Doug up the stairs and ono the bed.
Doug subsequently falls out of bed but he apparently has a very good night's sleep. His powers of recovery are of Olympic proportions.
In bed by 2.00 am
Friday 22 April
Another clear if chilly day.
All the group meet for breakfast at 9.00 and Graham offers to store our unneeded items while we are on the island- offer gratefully accepted.
Head off into the lovely town of Oban where we again meet up with some of the youngsters attending the wedding.
Renew our acquaintance with old friends, Doug and Jan Forson from Edinburgh and meet for the first time Andrew and Jan McMorrine who hail from Skye and will be sharing the house on Colonsay.
Big buy- up of food and drink,especially the latter then off to the jetty for the 2 hour trip to Colonsay.
Sea like a millpond and we have the added bonus of seeing The Waverley, the last remaining paddle steamer in operation in this area.
Doug has made arrangements for the soon-to-be bride and groom to visit the bridge, a real highlight for them.
Arrive in Colonsay to be met by a large crowd and a young piper, Lewis who pipes the couple on shore. More of the remarkable Lewis later.
Ian and Trina take us off to Machrins, our home for the next week, where we meet up with the other guests.
Our house mates for the week are:
Ian and Trina
Doug and Jan
Andrew and Jan
Donald and Helen Warden ( Oxford)
Jimmy and Janet Primrose ( The isle of Arran )
Jimmy and Donald are old schoolmates of Ian so it should be a rather raucous week!
Much booze drunk sitting around the kitchen table,including yours truly but when Ian arrives back at the house I decide to retire, but not before Jan McMorrine appears, Lady Macbeth-like to scold us for making such a racket at that ungodly hour.
This reprimand is all to no avail and Andrew, Ian, the Forsons and Donald continue their rebellious ways until 1.00 am ( one of our earlier nights as it later turns out!)
Saturday 23rd April
WEDDING DAY!
Cold windy day to start with but thankfully dry.
Up by 6.30 for early shower and then off to Machrins Bay near to the golf course.
After lunch get into our wedding attire and drive out to the beautiful Killoran Bay, the site of the wedding ceremony and Gail prepares herself for her role as chief photographer ( ably assisted by many others)
All going to plan when Ian drops off the first of the bridesmaids in the bridal car, a suitably bedecked Land Rover Discovery. Drama ensues when the mobiliser on the Discovery malfunctions and Ian is forced to evacuate the vehicle, rear end first with his kilt on. Sadly, there was no camera on hand to record this momentous event but it should provide fodder for any number of apochryphal stories in the future.
Wonderful, joyous ceremony overlooking the beach,after which we all adjourn to the Colonsay Hotel for a superb buffet-style meal.
Weather now perfect so many guests take the opportunity to eat out on the hotel lawns.
Short stop back at Machrins and then to the Village Hall for a Ceilidh.
Good speeches all round although noise from the adjacent kitchen made parts of them inaudible to some older guests (such as DFI ). MC for the evening, Andrew McMorrine was at his polished, amusing, best
although his calling on the father of the bride 3 times ( after Ian had already spoken ) somewhat blotted his copy book. ( he had meant to say father of the groom but got his sexes mixed up )
Fantastic band and much participation in the very energetic Scottish dancing.
I win a bottle of quality malt whisky by getting my gold coin closest to the bottle and as I don't drink scotch the signs of affection from my fellow house guests increase markedly, especially from Donald Warden. They noticeably waned as the bottle started to empty during the course of the week!
Home at a relatively respectable hour after a memorable day.
Sunday 24th April
Another fine day so a group of us set off to the beautiful Ardskenish Bay. Gail stays back to help Trina with food preparation.
Back by 2.00 just in time to join all of the other guests for a BBQ in the garden at Machrins. Gavin from the local Pantry cafe had arranged for a marquee, which came in very handy as the day turned decidedly chilly later in the day.
We all retire to the lounge for a very cosy evening get-together in front of an open fire.
Much reminiscing, mouth-organ music from Andrew Mac and LOTS of alcohol made for a memorable evening, interrupted only by Ian and Trina's nephew, Alex bringing in a worse-for-wear American fiancee, Mallory who had come down with some sort of rash and was feeling very fragile. She recovers quite quickly and we all conclude that the fragility was most likely the result of jetlag combined with the demon alcohol.
Not in bed before 1.00 and learn later that Doug and Andrew Mac had stayed up till after 3.00!
All the group meet for breakfast at 9.00 and Graham offers to store our unneeded items while we are on the island- offer gratefully accepted.
Head off into the lovely town of Oban where we again meet up with some of the youngsters attending the wedding.
Renew our acquaintance with old friends, Doug and Jan Forson from Edinburgh and meet for the first time Andrew and Jan McMorrine who hail from Skye and will be sharing the house on Colonsay.
Big buy- up of food and drink,especially the latter then off to the jetty for the 2 hour trip to Colonsay.
Sea like a millpond and we have the added bonus of seeing The Waverley, the last remaining paddle steamer in operation in this area.
Doug has made arrangements for the soon-to-be bride and groom to visit the bridge, a real highlight for them.
Arrive in Colonsay to be met by a large crowd and a young piper, Lewis who pipes the couple on shore. More of the remarkable Lewis later.
Ian and Trina take us off to Machrins, our home for the next week, where we meet up with the other guests.
Our house mates for the week are:
Ian and Trina
Doug and Jan
Andrew and Jan
Donald and Helen Warden ( Oxford)
Jimmy and Janet Primrose ( The isle of Arran )
Jimmy and Donald are old schoolmates of Ian so it should be a rather raucous week!
Much booze drunk sitting around the kitchen table,including yours truly but when Ian arrives back at the house I decide to retire, but not before Jan McMorrine appears, Lady Macbeth-like to scold us for making such a racket at that ungodly hour.
This reprimand is all to no avail and Andrew, Ian, the Forsons and Donald continue their rebellious ways until 1.00 am ( one of our earlier nights as it later turns out!)
Saturday 23rd April
WEDDING DAY!
Cold windy day to start with but thankfully dry.
Up by 6.30 for early shower and then off to Machrins Bay near to the golf course.
After lunch get into our wedding attire and drive out to the beautiful Killoran Bay, the site of the wedding ceremony and Gail prepares herself for her role as chief photographer ( ably assisted by many others)
All going to plan when Ian drops off the first of the bridesmaids in the bridal car, a suitably bedecked Land Rover Discovery. Drama ensues when the mobiliser on the Discovery malfunctions and Ian is forced to evacuate the vehicle, rear end first with his kilt on. Sadly, there was no camera on hand to record this momentous event but it should provide fodder for any number of apochryphal stories in the future.
Wonderful, joyous ceremony overlooking the beach,after which we all adjourn to the Colonsay Hotel for a superb buffet-style meal.
Weather now perfect so many guests take the opportunity to eat out on the hotel lawns.
Short stop back at Machrins and then to the Village Hall for a Ceilidh.
Good speeches all round although noise from the adjacent kitchen made parts of them inaudible to some older guests (such as DFI ). MC for the evening, Andrew McMorrine was at his polished, amusing, best
although his calling on the father of the bride 3 times ( after Ian had already spoken ) somewhat blotted his copy book. ( he had meant to say father of the groom but got his sexes mixed up )
Fantastic band and much participation in the very energetic Scottish dancing.
I win a bottle of quality malt whisky by getting my gold coin closest to the bottle and as I don't drink scotch the signs of affection from my fellow house guests increase markedly, especially from Donald Warden. They noticeably waned as the bottle started to empty during the course of the week!
Home at a relatively respectable hour after a memorable day.
Sunday 24th April
Another fine day so a group of us set off to the beautiful Ardskenish Bay. Gail stays back to help Trina with food preparation.
Back by 2.00 just in time to join all of the other guests for a BBQ in the garden at Machrins. Gavin from the local Pantry cafe had arranged for a marquee, which came in very handy as the day turned decidedly chilly later in the day.
We all retire to the lounge for a very cosy evening get-together in front of an open fire.
Much reminiscing, mouth-organ music from Andrew Mac and LOTS of alcohol made for a memorable evening, interrupted only by Ian and Trina's nephew, Alex bringing in a worse-for-wear American fiancee, Mallory who had come down with some sort of rash and was feeling very fragile. She recovers quite quickly and we all conclude that the fragility was most likely the result of jetlag combined with the demon alcohol.
Not in bed before 1.00 and learn later that Doug and Andrew Mac had stayed up till after 3.00!
Sunday, May 1, 2011
Thursday 21st April
Excellent breakfast then off to Glasgow. Still the drab old city that I recall from the 1970’s.
Train to Oban through some truly magnificent scenery, especially along Loch Lomond and Loch Awe. Train divides at Crianlarich so fortunately we have selected the front carriages which go to Oban rather the rear end which goes up to Fort William.
Arrive at Oban to be greeted by Ian Wood, a friend from the 70’s, his daughter Karenna and her fiance Lee.
Ian gradually recovering from problems associated with a hip replacement but otherwise well and prepared for the wedding of Karenna and Lee on Colonsay.
Glenburnie Hotel a fine family hotel overlooking the bay.
Dinner at La Piazza ( an Italian restaurant for you linguists out there!) and meet up with a number of the other guests attending the wedding.
In bed by 11.00 ( definitely not a sign of things to come on Colonsay )
Wednesday 20th April
Sunshine again!
G into Stafford for a manicure so we say our goodbyes to Tone and Marg after a great week together.
Set off north up the M6 late morning and plan to take a detour to Kendal in the Lake District ( we had spent our wedding night there in 1973 so wanted to re-visit the scene of the crime.). Too much traffic so we stop to eat our snackfood at a parking spot with a great view of the surrounding hills.
Arrive in Moffat at about 3.00 and are pleasantly surprised to find that the Balmoral Hotel has upgraded us to an apartment in the Stables. Moffat is a delightful town so take a quick stroll along the river, view the narrowest hotel in the world ( The Star )
Dinner at the Buccleuch Arms where we eat far too much of the local fare before retiring for an early night.
Tuesday 19th April
Another gloriously sunny day so we set off with Tone and Marg to visit the Dorothy Clive Gardens in Woore in Cheshire. The gardens, which were developed by her husband to make her life as an MS sufferer more comfortable are superb, especially on such a day.
Return to one of our favourite pubs, the Hollybush at Salt, where Tony shouts us a typical pub lunch- a reminder that no matter how hard they might try no country can emulate the British pub.
Afternoon spent back in the garden at Tone and Marg’s before yet another evening recalling mainly our footballing days.
We all then pack our bags, Gail and I for the trip to the island of Colonsay, T and M for an Easter break in Borth in North Wales.
Monday 18th April
Yet another fine morning so take long walk over Cannock Chase with Gail.
Late morning drive into Stafford for Gail to buy more books for her travels. Check out The Chambers restaurant which will be the venue of our dinner later in the day.
Afternoon spent catching up on the blogs before heading back into town for dinner with old friends from my childhood village, Gill and Alan Farmer and Tony and Penny Rogers.
As always had a great time reminiscing on our misspent youth. Personally I can’t recall the escapades which they all seem to clearly remember( probably more of a comment on me than them! )
Gill doing a 26 mile walk on May 14th for Breast Cancer and apparently hopes to break the 25 hour time barrier!
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