Up reasonably early after a decidedly cold sleepless night on hard bunk beds but the pain eased by the glorious sight of the cliffs in the early morning light.
After breakfast, off to a floating village where we each pay $5 for a 30 minute boat trip round the rocks. Something of a rip-off as many people work for $1 a day but the scenery magnificent and it all benefits the local people ( and we suspect our tour guide!). The water in some areas was quite disgusting and merely confirmed what Craig had reported to us the evening before.
Back to Halong Harbour for a good lunch and then the long drive back to Hanoi.
Dinner at very good upmarket seafood restaurant, found by Craig, on the last evening before he flies back to Melbourne.
Receive more news on the Ashes so go to sleep safe in the knowledge that I will be receiving some more messages from nephew Andy in the UK.
Book a trip to Sa Pa in the mountains.
The Obese Ferret.
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Halong Bay on 27th December.
Leave from hotel at 8.oo pm for drive to the world-famous Halong Bay.
3and a half hour drive in very uncomfortable bus through a sadly very polluted industrial area. The air quality is truly appalling.
Air clears slightly as we catch the first sight of the iconic limestone rocks and cliffs out in the bay.
Once off the bus we are sheperded away from our fellow bus passengers as we are apparently on a superior cruise( never like to mix with hoi polloi !).
The Dolphin Cruise junk is very well appointed although there is some problem with the toilet and our fellow passengers come from various parts of the globe, including France, India, Russia and the UK. Fortunately, the two girls from the UK are not cricket fans as Aus have imploded at the MCG.
Arrive on board junk in time for very nice lunch, after which we proceed to the heart of the rock formations in Halong Bay. The bay exceeds all our expectations and we enjoy spectacular views of the limestone cliffs from the vantage of a very impressive cave high up on one of the peaks.
Around 5.00 pm we all venture out on a kayaking trip in the bay, hugely enjoyable even if a rather wet experience.
Craig is the last to get back to the junk ( he has a reputation to live down to ) with darkness falling. He then regales us with a report on his kayaking experience which apparently included paddling through raw sewerage! Given his experience as a water engineer we have to assume he recognises a load of sh.t when he sees it!
Good dinner back on board follwoed by passable attempts by the crew to do some kareoke and some truly pathetic offerings from the passengers. Our cause was not helped by the fact that the songs were in such a high key that even the castrati among the group were having some real problems.
Off to bed at 10.30.
The Obese Ferret
3and a half hour drive in very uncomfortable bus through a sadly very polluted industrial area. The air quality is truly appalling.
Air clears slightly as we catch the first sight of the iconic limestone rocks and cliffs out in the bay.
Once off the bus we are sheperded away from our fellow bus passengers as we are apparently on a superior cruise( never like to mix with hoi polloi !).
The Dolphin Cruise junk is very well appointed although there is some problem with the toilet and our fellow passengers come from various parts of the globe, including France, India, Russia and the UK. Fortunately, the two girls from the UK are not cricket fans as Aus have imploded at the MCG.
Arrive on board junk in time for very nice lunch, after which we proceed to the heart of the rock formations in Halong Bay. The bay exceeds all our expectations and we enjoy spectacular views of the limestone cliffs from the vantage of a very impressive cave high up on one of the peaks.
Around 5.00 pm we all venture out on a kayaking trip in the bay, hugely enjoyable even if a rather wet experience.
Craig is the last to get back to the junk ( he has a reputation to live down to ) with darkness falling. He then regales us with a report on his kayaking experience which apparently included paddling through raw sewerage! Given his experience as a water engineer we have to assume he recognises a load of sh.t when he sees it!
Good dinner back on board follwoed by passable attempts by the crew to do some kareoke and some truly pathetic offerings from the passengers. Our cause was not helped by the fact that the songs were in such a high key that even the castrati among the group were having some real problems.
Off to bed at 10.30.
The Obese Ferret
Hue on 26th December
Wake up to a filthy day in the former Imperial City but nevertheless head off on a walking tour, first taking in the walled Imperial City.
After quick look at the inside of the citadel we come to the conclusion that, in the absence of any information in English we really need a tour guide. Discover that all guides had gone off for lunch ( that's public servants for you!) but we manage to tag onto a guide hired by a family from Perth.
It turns out that the guide, Mr Tong, had worked as an interpreter for both the Aussie and USA forces during the war and unsurprisingly was victimised by the North Vietnamese Gov't.
In any event he was a superb guide who refused the money which we offered to him. ( we solved this by giving the money to the Perth couple for them to hand over to him later)
After the Citadel Craig decides to spend more time looking round the Imperial City while Mr Tong takes uds off to the Temple and Tomb of Tu Duc who had 104 concubines but failed to produce an heir! All that effort for nothing!
We all eventually arrive back at the hotel totally drenched but dry off enough by the time we set off for the airport.
Wealthy still terrible and we are informed at the airport that the 7.10 pm flight has been cancelled due to bad weather. Suspect that Vietnamese Airlines have combined two flights and we duly take off at 10.00 pm.
Slightlly bumpy flight to Hanoi, arriving at 11.30 pm
Long drive to hotel which is perfectly situated in the old part of the city. Very friendly staff and comfortable if small rooms.
The Obese Ferret
y
After quick look at the inside of the citadel we come to the conclusion that, in the absence of any information in English we really need a tour guide. Discover that all guides had gone off for lunch ( that's public servants for you!) but we manage to tag onto a guide hired by a family from Perth.
It turns out that the guide, Mr Tong, had worked as an interpreter for both the Aussie and USA forces during the war and unsurprisingly was victimised by the North Vietnamese Gov't.
In any event he was a superb guide who refused the money which we offered to him. ( we solved this by giving the money to the Perth couple for them to hand over to him later)
After the Citadel Craig decides to spend more time looking round the Imperial City while Mr Tong takes uds off to the Temple and Tomb of Tu Duc who had 104 concubines but failed to produce an heir! All that effort for nothing!
We all eventually arrive back at the hotel totally drenched but dry off enough by the time we set off for the airport.
Wealthy still terrible and we are informed at the airport that the 7.10 pm flight has been cancelled due to bad weather. Suspect that Vietnamese Airlines have combined two flights and we duly take off at 10.00 pm.
Slightlly bumpy flight to Hanoi, arriving at 11.30 pm
Long drive to hotel which is perfectly situated in the old part of the city. Very friendly staff and comfortable if small rooms.
The Obese Ferret
y
My Son and bus trip from Hoi An to Hue on Christmas Day
Picked up from hotel at 8.00 am for trip to the Unesco Heritage-listed site of My Son, location for My Son Champa Temples.
The Champa temples were built between the 7th and 13th century and there were originally 70 in number before the Viet Cong based themselves there in the 1960's.
Only 20 temples, in varying states of restoration, now remain, courtesy of the pounding from USA B52 bombers. Craters around the site bear testimony to this episode.
The drive though the lushly wooded hills to My Son certainly made a welcome change from the congestion of the cities.
Arrive back in Hoi An to catch 2.00 pm bus to Hue. Uneventful trip north ,especially since the previously spectacular road over the Hai Van Pass has been replaced by a more practical tunnel through the Truong Son Range.
Reach Hue late afternoon and decide to have meal at L'Auberge restaurant and have early night after long, fairly tiring day.
The Obese Ferret.
The Champa temples were built between the 7th and 13th century and there were originally 70 in number before the Viet Cong based themselves there in the 1960's.
Only 20 temples, in varying states of restoration, now remain, courtesy of the pounding from USA B52 bombers. Craters around the site bear testimony to this episode.
The drive though the lushly wooded hills to My Son certainly made a welcome change from the congestion of the cities.
Arrive back in Hoi An to catch 2.00 pm bus to Hue. Uneventful trip north ,especially since the previously spectacular road over the Hai Van Pass has been replaced by a more practical tunnel through the Truong Son Range.
Reach Hue late afternoon and decide to have meal at L'Auberge restaurant and have early night after long, fairly tiring day.
The Obese Ferret.
Arrival in Hoi An on 24th December
Hoi An a lovely city which lives up to all of the hype in the travel guides and the reports from friends who had visited the area earlier.
Checked into surprisingly upmarket Golf Hotel walk into the centre to get our bearings.
Craig soon picks up the vibes that the first priority of his oldies is to check out the local tailors who have gained a real reputation for makng up garments in a very short space of time. He therefore heads off on his own for more interesting pursuits.
We eventually find Yally's which seems to be one of the more reputable tailors, place our order at 3.00pm, have a first fitting at 6.00 and walk out with our garments at 7.00 pm ( blazer for me and pants for Gail)
Meet up with Craig early evening and after experiencing a magical sunset over one of the bridges we have very pleasant Christmas Eve dinner overlooking the river.
Back to hotel for relatively early night as off next day to My Son.
The Obese Ferret.
Checked into surprisingly upmarket Golf Hotel walk into the centre to get our bearings.
Craig soon picks up the vibes that the first priority of his oldies is to check out the local tailors who have gained a real reputation for makng up garments in a very short space of time. He therefore heads off on his own for more interesting pursuits.
We eventually find Yally's which seems to be one of the more reputable tailors, place our order at 3.00pm, have a first fitting at 6.00 and walk out with our garments at 7.00 pm ( blazer for me and pants for Gail)
Meet up with Craig early evening and after experiencing a magical sunset over one of the bridges we have very pleasant Christmas Eve dinner overlooking the river.
Back to hotel for relatively early night as off next day to My Son.
The Obese Ferret.
Sunday, December 26, 2010
Nui Ba Den
Now at Hue Airport using Craig's IPad which does not have a mind of its own and will hopefully reproduce my words faithfully rather than in Vietnamenglish.
Following visit to Cu Chi Tunnels on morning of Tuesday 21st Dec we headed off to Nui Ba Den, a mountain which rises from the surrounding plain up to almost 1000 metros. Legend has it that a certain Ly Thi Thong,who, while her lover was fighting occupying forces, was ordered to marry the son of a local mandarin. Rather than comply she threw herself off the mountain. It took the efforts of both Craig and myself to prevent Gail from following her example although it has taken her 36 years to realize the injustice of being forced into a marriage with me!
The mountain was also the scene of fierce battles between the French, Americans and the Viet Minh.
Evening meal at the restaurant of a guy called Huy who had lived for some time in Brisbane, followed by a return visit to our friendly travel agent Duong who finalized more plans for the rest of the week.
The Obese Ferret.
Wednesday 22nd Dec.
Set off at 8.30 am on an Open Tour Bus for a 2 day tour of the Mekong Delta. Open Tour buses offer basic travel ( the cost of our tour including an overnight stay in Can Tho was $24 each ).
We had taken the decision to go with a larger party rather than with a personal guide as a) we wanted to enjoy some interaction with fellow travelers and b) there is always a risk that the guide will speak such poor English his/her commentary becomes meaningless.
First stop on the trip was My Tho on one of the many tributaries of the Mekong and from here we took a boat trip over to the Island of the Coconut Monk, otherwise known as Phoenix Island , where we amongst other things we watched coconut candy being made, had a decidedly large python draped our around our neck, drank snake wine, sampled lemon tea, honey and tropical fruit. Gail being a snakeophobic ( if such a word exists ) declined the python and the snake wine.
We all took up the offer of 5 packs of candy to get 1 free only to find later that they didn't suit Craig's sensitive stomach. The result- I ended up with about 3 kgs extra weight in my bag and enough candy to last us through 2011.
Continue on bus to Can Tho, the centre of the Mekong Delta, after good meal at restaurant river spend night at very basic hotel ( what did you expect for a $24 trip all-inclusive! )
The Obese Ferret.
Thursday 23rd December.
6.30 start and straight onto boat to an on-shore market. This followed by a truly fascinating visit to the Floating Market where the owners of boats peddled their wares of fruit and vegetables while gawping idiots such as ourselves made our way past their primitive vessels.
It was food for thought that these people lived on these boats, as evidenced by the washing hanging on the lines alongside the veggies etc.
Later visited an area to see noodles being made and walked through a tropical fruit area.
Lunch back near hotel and then long bumpy trip back to Saigon.
Evening snack at Allez Boo which apparently is one of the 'in' places to go ( and prices to match).
Late night 1 hour flight to Danang.
All in all a day which highlighted the incredible energy and industry of the Vietnamese people. Whilst many live in what we would regard as primitive conditions they appear to have a fierce determination to improve their lot in sharp contrast to other so-called third world countries that we have visited.
The Obese Ferret.
Friday 24th December.
An early morning stroll along the river, followed by a visit to a very interesting Champa Museum showed Danang to be a pleasant surprise and a town which was done a disservice by our Footprints Guide book.
Decide to book a taxi to take us from Danang to Hoi An calling in at the 30 mile China Beach ( a favorite of GI's during the war ) and two magnificent sports stadia which from a distance appear to be state-of-the-art.
China Beach is being developed at a rate of knots and with its golden sand and surf has the potential to become a real tourist magnet. Certainly, golfers Greg Norman and Colin Montgomerie have caught onto this as they have given their names to golf estates with Norman in particular featured on posters galore.
Moreover the beach is surrounded by mountains to the north and south which only add to its development potential.
It could even become another Surfers' Paradise if they get everything wrong!
The approach to Hoi An gave us a real 'Gailism' which have become part of the Ireland family folklore. Asked by the taxi driver to confirm the name of our hotel in Hoi An, Gail on trying to find the name on a voucher ( held in the front seat by Craig ) said with her usual confidence that she could see the name it was' Book Ing', only to realise that she was reading ' booking confirmed'!. We have since realized that the hotel is part of a very large chain as there appear to be Book Ing offices everywhere! Even the taxi driver, with his limited knowledge of English laughed.
Following visit to Cu Chi Tunnels on morning of Tuesday 21st Dec we headed off to Nui Ba Den, a mountain which rises from the surrounding plain up to almost 1000 metros. Legend has it that a certain Ly Thi Thong,who, while her lover was fighting occupying forces, was ordered to marry the son of a local mandarin. Rather than comply she threw herself off the mountain. It took the efforts of both Craig and myself to prevent Gail from following her example although it has taken her 36 years to realize the injustice of being forced into a marriage with me!
The mountain was also the scene of fierce battles between the French, Americans and the Viet Minh.
Evening meal at the restaurant of a guy called Huy who had lived for some time in Brisbane, followed by a return visit to our friendly travel agent Duong who finalized more plans for the rest of the week.
The Obese Ferret.
Wednesday 22nd Dec.
Set off at 8.30 am on an Open Tour Bus for a 2 day tour of the Mekong Delta. Open Tour buses offer basic travel ( the cost of our tour including an overnight stay in Can Tho was $24 each ).
We had taken the decision to go with a larger party rather than with a personal guide as a) we wanted to enjoy some interaction with fellow travelers and b) there is always a risk that the guide will speak such poor English his/her commentary becomes meaningless.
First stop on the trip was My Tho on one of the many tributaries of the Mekong and from here we took a boat trip over to the Island of the Coconut Monk, otherwise known as Phoenix Island , where we amongst other things we watched coconut candy being made, had a decidedly large python draped our around our neck, drank snake wine, sampled lemon tea, honey and tropical fruit. Gail being a snakeophobic ( if such a word exists ) declined the python and the snake wine.
We all took up the offer of 5 packs of candy to get 1 free only to find later that they didn't suit Craig's sensitive stomach. The result- I ended up with about 3 kgs extra weight in my bag and enough candy to last us through 2011.
Continue on bus to Can Tho, the centre of the Mekong Delta, after good meal at restaurant river spend night at very basic hotel ( what did you expect for a $24 trip all-inclusive! )
The Obese Ferret.
Thursday 23rd December.
6.30 start and straight onto boat to an on-shore market. This followed by a truly fascinating visit to the Floating Market where the owners of boats peddled their wares of fruit and vegetables while gawping idiots such as ourselves made our way past their primitive vessels.
It was food for thought that these people lived on these boats, as evidenced by the washing hanging on the lines alongside the veggies etc.
Later visited an area to see noodles being made and walked through a tropical fruit area.
Lunch back near hotel and then long bumpy trip back to Saigon.
Evening snack at Allez Boo which apparently is one of the 'in' places to go ( and prices to match).
Late night 1 hour flight to Danang.
All in all a day which highlighted the incredible energy and industry of the Vietnamese people. Whilst many live in what we would regard as primitive conditions they appear to have a fierce determination to improve their lot in sharp contrast to other so-called third world countries that we have visited.
The Obese Ferret.
Friday 24th December.
An early morning stroll along the river, followed by a visit to a very interesting Champa Museum showed Danang to be a pleasant surprise and a town which was done a disservice by our Footprints Guide book.
Decide to book a taxi to take us from Danang to Hoi An calling in at the 30 mile China Beach ( a favorite of GI's during the war ) and two magnificent sports stadia which from a distance appear to be state-of-the-art.
China Beach is being developed at a rate of knots and with its golden sand and surf has the potential to become a real tourist magnet. Certainly, golfers Greg Norman and Colin Montgomerie have caught onto this as they have given their names to golf estates with Norman in particular featured on posters galore.
Moreover the beach is surrounded by mountains to the north and south which only add to its development potential.
It could even become another Surfers' Paradise if they get everything wrong!
The approach to Hoi An gave us a real 'Gailism' which have become part of the Ireland family folklore. Asked by the taxi driver to confirm the name of our hotel in Hoi An, Gail on trying to find the name on a voucher ( held in the front seat by Craig ) said with her usual confidence that she could see the name it was' Book Ing', only to realise that she was reading ' booking confirmed'!. We have since realized that the hotel is part of a very large chain as there appear to be Book Ing offices everywhere! Even the taxi driver, with his limited knowledge of English laughed.
Location:Hue Airport
Cu Chi Tunnels and Black Lady Mountain
Met by guide and driver at 8.00 am to travel northeast ò Saigon in mini bus, first to Cu Chi Tunnels and later to Nui Ba Den ( Black Lady Mountain ). The Vietcong built 250 kms ò tunnels during the war to infiltrate the south, carry our subversive action against the USA troops and plan the Tet offensive in 1968. The original tunnels were too narrow for fat westerners so just over 100 metres have been widened for tourists, The experience is still a claustrophobic for many and it's truly amazing how the VC survived for months dơưn there for months at a time. Crawling on all fours a great test for the titanium knee!
Another comfirmation ò the brutality of the war,if such were needed came in the array of booby traps which were set up to greet any unsuspecting enemy soldiers.
The afternoon offered a far less confronting experience in the form of a visit to Nui Ba Den.
More later as the keyboard in this hotel, which keeps trying to write in Vietnamese letters í driving me nuts.
The Obese Ferret,
Another comfirmation ò the brutality of the war,if such were needed came in the array of booby traps which were set up to greet any unsuspecting enemy soldiers.
The afternoon offered a far less confronting experience in the form of a visit to Nui Ba Den.
More later as the keyboard in this hotel, which keeps trying to write in Vietnamese letters í driving me nuts.
The Obese Ferret,
Saigon continued.
Plans for the following 3 days sorted with travel agent so go on quick tour of city,visiting the Reunification Palace, famous as the scene of a North Vietnamese tank bursting through the gates to finally take over the Gov't of South Vietnam. On to the War Remnants Museum where the brutality and futility ò the Vietnam war is all too graphically shown, albeit with an understandably anti- USA slant.
Good meal at travel agent-recommended restaurant and off to bed for early start the next day,still marvelling at the ability òf the motorbike riders to survive another day!
The Obese Ferret.
Good meal at travel agent-recommended restaurant and off to bed for early start the next day,still marvelling at the ability òf the motorbike riders to survive another day!
The Obese Ferret.
Thursday, December 23, 2010
Good Morning Vietnam 2
Arrived in Vietnam with a bang,literally! I had been warned about pickpockets and muggers but never expected the first assault to take place before I had left the aircraft. A passenger in the seat in front of me dropped a rather heavy computer case on my admittedly fairly large nose while taking it out of the overhead locker, sending my specs flying and leaving me with a nice cut on the bridge of my snozzle.
After first aid from the cabin crew and a check by an airport doctor I was able to take a cab to the centre of Saigon and Gail and I were able to meet up with Craig.
Saigon has a population of 9 million people and apparently 10 million scooters and motor bikes! Chaos reigns.
After checking in at very comfortable hotel headed off with Craig to visit the Reunification Palace and later the War Remnants Museum, the latter a very confronting reminder of the brutalities of the Vietnam War, albeit from a decidedly anti-American standpoint.
Good meal at restaurant recommended to us by local travel agent, followed to a second visit to said travel agent to make arrangements for the following days.
A slightly wounded Obese Ferret.
After first aid from the cabin crew and a check by an airport doctor I was able to take a cab to the centre of Saigon and Gail and I were able to meet up with Craig.
Saigon has a population of 9 million people and apparently 10 million scooters and motor bikes! Chaos reigns.
After checking in at very comfortable hotel headed off with Craig to visit the Reunification Palace and later the War Remnants Museum, the latter a very confronting reminder of the brutalities of the Vietnam War, albeit from a decidedly anti-American standpoint.
Good meal at restaurant recommended to us by local travel agent, followed to a second visit to said travel agent to make arrangements for the following days.
A slightly wounded Obese Ferret.
Location:Arrival Loop,,Vietnam
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Saturday, October 9, 2010
Saturday 9th October - departure from Hong Kong
A sleeping tablet last night has guaranteed a good night's sleep and all that remains is for us to have a last look around the gardens in the vicinity of the hotel.
I have now had a chance check back over the various blogs and realise that I have omitted quite a few words at critical moments but I am sure that many out there will be saying " I wish he had left one hell of a lot more out"!
I have often been accused of being overly verbose so I have lived down to my reputation.
I am sorry if I have bored you but the blog is really as much for me as anyone else. I have always kept a travel diary but Craig persuaded me to move into the IT age,hence the blog.
As a blogice ( Craig's term for a novice blogger ) I will leave it up to you to decide whether I should go out in a blaze of ignominy after just one attempt or whether I should continue to inflict my musings on you poor souls.
Gail , Craig and I are off to Vietnam over Christmas so please let me have your torrent of abuse in good time for me to make a decision on my future as a blogger.
All the best
The Obese Ferret
PS For those out there who may wonder where the "Obese Ferret' term came from it was coined by my UK nephew Andy after I had told him about what was for me a bit of a weight gain!
I have now had a chance check back over the various blogs and realise that I have omitted quite a few words at critical moments but I am sure that many out there will be saying " I wish he had left one hell of a lot more out"!
I have often been accused of being overly verbose so I have lived down to my reputation.
I am sorry if I have bored you but the blog is really as much for me as anyone else. I have always kept a travel diary but Craig persuaded me to move into the IT age,hence the blog.
As a blogice ( Craig's term for a novice blogger ) I will leave it up to you to decide whether I should go out in a blaze of ignominy after just one attempt or whether I should continue to inflict my musings on you poor souls.
Gail , Craig and I are off to Vietnam over Christmas so please let me have your torrent of abuse in good time for me to make a decision on my future as a blogger.
All the best
The Obese Ferret
PS For those out there who may wonder where the "Obese Ferret' term came from it was coined by my UK nephew Andy after I had told him about what was for me a bit of a weight gain!
Friday, October 8, 2010
Friday 8th October- Hong Kong
Lyn and Bert head off through the Botanical Gardens towards the shops at the west end of Hong Kong island while Gail and I stay at hotel for Gail to carry out some research on the Canon camera which she is hoping to buy later in the day.
Meet up with L and B for a short drink and then go our separate ways once again.
I visit an Omega shop to try to have my decidedly old Omega fixed ( battery replaced ). This is successfully carried out but this return to real time leaves me with mixed thoughts. If the truth be known I have quite enjoyed my watch showing 3.40 all the time.
I have at various times been very early for breakfast, very late for lunch or very early for dinner and have gone to bed at a ridiculously early hour in an attempt to help this travel-weary body recover.
I have enjoyed this surreal experience so much I have decided to extend it for the foreseeable future and have set my watch to Reyjavik time.
Quick trip over to Hong Kong for dinner at the YMCA hotel,( this religious trend is becoming a bit of a worry) before returning to YWCA for some latenight blogging ( don't read anything into that, folks )
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Meet up with L and B for a short drink and then go our separate ways once again.
I visit an Omega shop to try to have my decidedly old Omega fixed ( battery replaced ). This is successfully carried out but this return to real time leaves me with mixed thoughts. If the truth be known I have quite enjoyed my watch showing 3.40 all the time.
I have at various times been very early for breakfast, very late for lunch or very early for dinner and have gone to bed at a ridiculously early hour in an attempt to help this travel-weary body recover.
I have enjoyed this surreal experience so much I have decided to extend it for the foreseeable future and have set my watch to Reyjavik time.
Quick trip over to Hong Kong for dinner at the YMCA hotel,( this religious trend is becoming a bit of a worry) before returning to YWCA for some latenight blogging ( don't read anything into that, folks )
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Thursday 7th October( having crossed the International Dateline)-Hong Kong
Staying at the YWCA on Hong Kong Island. Lovely hotel although the requirement to hold hands and bless the food in the breakfast room is not something with which I am totally comfortable.
First port of call on a very misty morning is the Peak Train to the top of Victoria Peak.
Not a great deal has changes withe train except that all of the seats face up to the peak and makes for inferior sightseeing during the trip in both directions.
I wimped out on taking the elevator to the Peak Tower but I missed little due to the heavy fog.
A walk along Lurgan Road provided some spectacular views out over Victoria Harbour and the incredible proliferation of high-rise buildings on both sides of the harbour.
Afternoon visits to Hong Kong Park and the Botanical Gardens give us some respite from the hustle and bustle of the city and an enjoyable day is wrapped up with a trip over to Kowloon to view the Light and Sound show featuring the high-rise buildings along both sides of the harbour. The show is impressive enough but one came away with the feeling that some more stirring music could have made for a much more memorable spectacle.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret
First port of call on a very misty morning is the Peak Train to the top of Victoria Peak.
Not a great deal has changes withe train except that all of the seats face up to the peak and makes for inferior sightseeing during the trip in both directions.
I wimped out on taking the elevator to the Peak Tower but I missed little due to the heavy fog.
A walk along Lurgan Road provided some spectacular views out over Victoria Harbour and the incredible proliferation of high-rise buildings on both sides of the harbour.
Afternoon visits to Hong Kong Park and the Botanical Gardens give us some respite from the hustle and bustle of the city and an enjoyable day is wrapped up with a trip over to Kowloon to view the Light and Sound show featuring the high-rise buildings along both sides of the harbour. The show is impressive enough but one came away with the feeling that some more stirring music could have made for a much more memorable spectacle.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret
Monday 4th/Tuesday 5th October-Vancouver.
Arriving at the Rossellen Suites in the Stanley Part part of Vancouver we discovered that the owner, Jean had forgotten to record our booking and was fully booked for that night.
The poor fellow looked shell-shocked at his own incompetence, not to say more than a little embarrassed. Jean eventually found us another suite nearby although one has to admit that Mrs I was not in a particularly forgiving mood in spit of his 'mea culpa' . Having for almost an hour for a cab to transfer our cases did little to lighten the mood.
A nice cup of coffee at a local cafe the next morning did the trick and while Lyn and Bert went off shoppng G and I went off in a search of some computer games for Craig, with mixed success.
Returning to the suite we find that Jean from Rossellen had booked a limo at his expense to take us to the airport that morning- a very magnanimous gesture possibly brought about by Gail's standing with her foot on his neck the evening before!
The flight from Vancouver to Hong Kong turned out to be one of our worst ever, with very heavy turbulence over the Bering Sea, cabin crew who showed no human emotions during 12 hours of flying and one flight attendant who virtually ran through the cabin dispensing coffee at the same speed as the people used to spray insecticide inside the aircraft while everyone covered up their face.
To make matters worse we had a captain who could have been wrestling with the controls on the flight deck or molesting his first officer for all we knew. After advising us that he expected smooth flying conditions he did not say a word during 12 hours when a number of nervous passengers would have welcomed a few comments reassuring us that we were not about to come a cropper on the frozen wastes of the Arctic.
Arrived to the usual steamy Hong Kong climate and had an early night in a bid to avoid to much jetlag.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
The poor fellow looked shell-shocked at his own incompetence, not to say more than a little embarrassed. Jean eventually found us another suite nearby although one has to admit that Mrs I was not in a particularly forgiving mood in spit of his 'mea culpa' . Having for almost an hour for a cab to transfer our cases did little to lighten the mood.
A nice cup of coffee at a local cafe the next morning did the trick and while Lyn and Bert went off shoppng G and I went off in a search of some computer games for Craig, with mixed success.
Returning to the suite we find that Jean from Rossellen had booked a limo at his expense to take us to the airport that morning- a very magnanimous gesture possibly brought about by Gail's standing with her foot on his neck the evening before!
The flight from Vancouver to Hong Kong turned out to be one of our worst ever, with very heavy turbulence over the Bering Sea, cabin crew who showed no human emotions during 12 hours of flying and one flight attendant who virtually ran through the cabin dispensing coffee at the same speed as the people used to spray insecticide inside the aircraft while everyone covered up their face.
To make matters worse we had a captain who could have been wrestling with the controls on the flight deck or molesting his first officer for all we knew. After advising us that he expected smooth flying conditions he did not say a word during 12 hours when a number of nervous passengers would have welcomed a few comments reassuring us that we were not about to come a cropper on the frozen wastes of the Arctic.
Arrived to the usual steamy Hong Kong climate and had an early night in a bid to avoid to much jetlag.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Monday 4th October- Kamloops to Vancouver.
Early excitement when a black bear sighted on the tracks near to the Kamloops Lake.
Interesting information provided on the Native population ( referred to as the First Nation people ).
During the 1800's the population diminished to about 15,000 due to such as TB, smallpox and it has taken all the time since to recover to the current level of approx. 300,000. Someone must be doing something right!.
Other news on the train- there are 39 carriages after the train from Jasper joined us at Kamloops, a record for the Rocky Mountaineer.
Two companies, Canadian National and the Canadian Pacific now share the railways with the former responsible for the eastbound services and the latter for the westbound. A third group called the Money Trains who are financed by private enterprise following a tender process have priority on all tracks.
Not long out of Kamloops we pass a range of copper oxide hills known as the Painted Bluff which has been used in films such as "The X Files' and 'The A Team'.
Meghan, one of the tour guides, related a story concerning an old farmer who became so upset by the whistle of the train as it entered a tunnel near to his property ( all trains in Canada are required by law to blow the whistle) that he took to appearing each time the train came by, fired a shotgun in the air, all the time totally naked. Meghan took this story to be mere hearsay until the old guy appeared on cue and presented himself full frontal to Meghan's no doubt innocent eyes. She gave no further details on the old guy at the time!
The rest of the day saw us travel through Ashcroft, the driest place in Canada with less than 250mms per annum, Lytton the hottest area in the country with a record temperature of 48.3 degrees.
We see the confluence of the mighty Thompson and Fraser Rivers and the ferocity of the water passing through the Jaws of Death and Hell's Gates rapids.
The splendour of the Fraser River Canyon is comparable to any of the magnificent scenery we have seen during our travels in the Rockies over the past few weeks.
As we approach Vancouver I am reminded of what has made this a truly trip: the superb onboard team, the food of the highest order, the never-ending supply of breathtaking scenery and last but definitely not least some delightful fellow travellers, notably Kevin and Hilary from the UK, John and Sharon from Canberra. Memorable for less positive reason was a guy from Worcester who had travelled extensively and had been in the army. To hear him speak ( and he did all too often ) he could easily have written 'Hitler-My Part In His Downfall' as poor old Spike Milligan.
Well, that's another one crossed off the 'Bucket List' but it is still very extensive. Here's to many more travels.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Interesting information provided on the Native population ( referred to as the First Nation people ).
During the 1800's the population diminished to about 15,000 due to such as TB, smallpox and it has taken all the time since to recover to the current level of approx. 300,000. Someone must be doing something right!.
Other news on the train- there are 39 carriages after the train from Jasper joined us at Kamloops, a record for the Rocky Mountaineer.
Two companies, Canadian National and the Canadian Pacific now share the railways with the former responsible for the eastbound services and the latter for the westbound. A third group called the Money Trains who are financed by private enterprise following a tender process have priority on all tracks.
Not long out of Kamloops we pass a range of copper oxide hills known as the Painted Bluff which has been used in films such as "The X Files' and 'The A Team'.
Meghan, one of the tour guides, related a story concerning an old farmer who became so upset by the whistle of the train as it entered a tunnel near to his property ( all trains in Canada are required by law to blow the whistle) that he took to appearing each time the train came by, fired a shotgun in the air, all the time totally naked. Meghan took this story to be mere hearsay until the old guy appeared on cue and presented himself full frontal to Meghan's no doubt innocent eyes. She gave no further details on the old guy at the time!
The rest of the day saw us travel through Ashcroft, the driest place in Canada with less than 250mms per annum, Lytton the hottest area in the country with a record temperature of 48.3 degrees.
We see the confluence of the mighty Thompson and Fraser Rivers and the ferocity of the water passing through the Jaws of Death and Hell's Gates rapids.
The splendour of the Fraser River Canyon is comparable to any of the magnificent scenery we have seen during our travels in the Rockies over the past few weeks.
As we approach Vancouver I am reminded of what has made this a truly trip: the superb onboard team, the food of the highest order, the never-ending supply of breathtaking scenery and last but definitely not least some delightful fellow travellers, notably Kevin and Hilary from the UK, John and Sharon from Canberra. Memorable for less positive reason was a guy from Worcester who had travelled extensively and had been in the army. To hear him speak ( and he did all too often ) he could easily have written 'Hitler-My Part In His Downfall' as poor old Spike Milligan.
Well, that's another one crossed off the 'Bucket List' but it is still very extensive. Here's to many more travels.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Sunday 3rd October- Banff to Kamloops
I have been reminded that in my last blog I omitted a couple of items in my semi-comatose state in the early hours of the morning.
Firstly, I was remiss in mentioning that Gail and Lyn spent a considerable amount of time doing the laundry before we set off to Lakes Minnewanka and Two Jacks yesterday.
A highlight which I also overlooked was our visit to Cows Icecream Parlour in Banff. Their icecream has recently been voted No.1 in the world and their products certainly lived up to all of the hype.
Now on to Sunday.
Firstly, I was remiss in mentioning that Gail and Lyn spent a considerable amount of time doing the laundry before we set off to Lakes Minnewanka and Two Jacks yesterday.
A highlight which I also overlooked was our visit to Cows Icecream Parlour in Banff. Their icecream has recently been voted No.1 in the world and their products certainly lived up to all of the hype.
Now on to Sunday.
Sunday 3rd October Rocky Mountaineer Banff to Kamloops
Awake at 4.00 am after terrible night's sleep, probably due to knowing that we could not afford to miss the train.
Finally get in touch with Craig who had had some phone problems. He had been putting some very long hours at work so he hasn't learned from his old man. As always it's good to hear his voice and to catch up on the news from Down Under.
Return the car to Hertz at Banff Springs and contrary to previous advice taxis were not in huge supply. A couple from York who are also taking the train trip kindly offer to share their cab so we do arrive at the Banff station well before the deadline for checking in.
As we were to learn over the next 2 days the Rocky Mountaineer is very professionally run and the whole operation ticks along very smoothly. Unfortunately, nobody told the the Banff station authorities that their waiting room is the first impression people receive of this world-famous train journey.
Organised chaos would be putting it too kindly and we were all glad to emerge from the throngs of passengers and board the train. The situation on board could not have been in starker contrast.
After being greeted by Adam and his colleagues, Meghan, Michael and Chad we were treated to a highly amusing explanation of the safety rules on board.
This combination of humour and a high degree of professionalism was to be an ever-present feature of the trip.
Leaving Banff we viewed from a different perspective much of the superb mountain scenery which we had seen while driving around the area. However, when we reached the famous Spiral Tunnels near Field we gained a far greater insight into the engineering feat of building these tunnels in1909.
The weakest link of the Canadian Pacific Line built in 1884 was a 13 km stretch between Field and Hector named the "Big Hill". Not only was the 4.5 % gradient very dangerous but it was extremely expensive to run.
The Spiral Tunnels which involved the excavation of 557,500 cubic metres of rock reduced the gradient to a more acceptable 2.2% remain one of the greatest railway engineering feats.
There so many scenic highlights on the train journey but without doubt the most memorable moment of this first day was the crossing of the Stoney Creek Bridge towering 100 metres above the creek bed- yet another test of this vertigo-sufferer's resolve.
The on board service was of the very highest order and Adam and Meghan provided us with a constant stream of informative and frequently humorous commentary on the places visited along the way.
Kamloops, the halfway point on the trip and where we would overnight is a town of 91,00 people which is attempting re-invent itself.
Not blessed with the natural beauty of other towns in the Rockies it has become a very important sporting competition centre with 19 golf courses, numerous soccer, football and baseball grounds.
Have an early night and give dinner a miss to prepare for a last big day on the train.
Apologies for all the boring detail of this first half of the trip but I'm just trying to educate you lot out there!
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Finally get in touch with Craig who had had some phone problems. He had been putting some very long hours at work so he hasn't learned from his old man. As always it's good to hear his voice and to catch up on the news from Down Under.
Return the car to Hertz at Banff Springs and contrary to previous advice taxis were not in huge supply. A couple from York who are also taking the train trip kindly offer to share their cab so we do arrive at the Banff station well before the deadline for checking in.
As we were to learn over the next 2 days the Rocky Mountaineer is very professionally run and the whole operation ticks along very smoothly. Unfortunately, nobody told the the Banff station authorities that their waiting room is the first impression people receive of this world-famous train journey.
Organised chaos would be putting it too kindly and we were all glad to emerge from the throngs of passengers and board the train. The situation on board could not have been in starker contrast.
After being greeted by Adam and his colleagues, Meghan, Michael and Chad we were treated to a highly amusing explanation of the safety rules on board.
This combination of humour and a high degree of professionalism was to be an ever-present feature of the trip.
Leaving Banff we viewed from a different perspective much of the superb mountain scenery which we had seen while driving around the area. However, when we reached the famous Spiral Tunnels near Field we gained a far greater insight into the engineering feat of building these tunnels in1909.
The weakest link of the Canadian Pacific Line built in 1884 was a 13 km stretch between Field and Hector named the "Big Hill". Not only was the 4.5 % gradient very dangerous but it was extremely expensive to run.
The Spiral Tunnels which involved the excavation of 557,500 cubic metres of rock reduced the gradient to a more acceptable 2.2% remain one of the greatest railway engineering feats.
There so many scenic highlights on the train journey but without doubt the most memorable moment of this first day was the crossing of the Stoney Creek Bridge towering 100 metres above the creek bed- yet another test of this vertigo-sufferer's resolve.
The on board service was of the very highest order and Adam and Meghan provided us with a constant stream of informative and frequently humorous commentary on the places visited along the way.
Kamloops, the halfway point on the trip and where we would overnight is a town of 91,00 people which is attempting re-invent itself.
Not blessed with the natural beauty of other towns in the Rockies it has become a very important sporting competition centre with 19 golf courses, numerous soccer, football and baseball grounds.
Have an early night and give dinner a miss to prepare for a last big day on the train.
Apologies for all the boring detail of this first half of the trip but I'm just trying to educate you lot out there!
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Sunday, October 3, 2010
Saturday 2nd October- Lake Louise
Awake at 7.00 and look out of the bedroom windows to a scene of truly incomparable beauty, sunrise over Lake Louise with a totally breeze-free day giving us perfect reflections across the lake and beyond to the mountains.
We take our time over the buffet breakfast,hoping to milk the moment for all it is worth and eventually check out at just before midday after a memorable, if all too short a stay at the Fairmont.
Decide to take Highway 1A from Lake Louise to Banff rather Highway 1 and this gives us an opportunity to view many new sights, including the stunning Castle Mountain.
Arriving in Banff we check into the Tunnel Mountain Resort before setting off to Lake Minnewanka and Two Jacks Lakes. The evening light makes for yet another spectacular panorama and the sight of a herd of elks at close quarters nicely rounds off our time in this area ( we leave on the train for Kamloops tomorrow )
Sit up far too late catching up on the blogs but I have got there, albeit rather belatedly.
Cheers
A very sleepy Obese Ferret.
We take our time over the buffet breakfast,hoping to milk the moment for all it is worth and eventually check out at just before midday after a memorable, if all too short a stay at the Fairmont.
Decide to take Highway 1A from Lake Louise to Banff rather Highway 1 and this gives us an opportunity to view many new sights, including the stunning Castle Mountain.
Arriving in Banff we check into the Tunnel Mountain Resort before setting off to Lake Minnewanka and Two Jacks Lakes. The evening light makes for yet another spectacular panorama and the sight of a herd of elks at close quarters nicely rounds off our time in this area ( we leave on the train for Kamloops tomorrow )
Sit up far too late catching up on the blogs but I have got there, albeit rather belatedly.
Cheers
A very sleepy Obese Ferret.
Friday 1st October- Lake Louise
Decide to take a 7 kms trek up to Lake Agnes Tea House overlooking Lake Louise. B not too sure about it at first but fine once we get going on yet another magnificent,sunny day. On way up the trail we meet up with a German lady Gertie who asks if she might join us. She is delightful company and as she is married to a Swede we are able to have quite a chat along the way.
Halfway up the walk we come across Mirror Lake which is real haven of tranquility.
Finally reach the Tea House and Lake Agnes unscathed and enjoy a snack. Linger a while there while we soak up the fantastic setting.
I refuse Gertie's invitation to join in climbing up to a lookout called the Big Beehive, a very wise decision when we later see some walkers perched above a precipice at the top.
Returning to Lake Louise we head off to Moraine Lake with its famous 10 peaks each of 10,000 ft or more. Incredibly crowded although nothing can detract from the beauty of the lake and its backdrop of the majestic peaks.
Check into the Fairmont Hotel and find that we have been allocated plum rooms on the 8th Floor looking straight over the lake.
Encounter a small hitch when our loo won't flush but it's soon sorted out.
Dinner in the Brasserie at 6.30 at a table with a great view out over Lake Louise, although we all feel that the meal falls short of the mark. Our waitress Erin, a vivacious girl who obviously speaks her mind confides in us that e new chef only 3 days in the job is"bloody useless"! Erin is shortly due to join her boyfriend in Perth shortly and she should go down very well with the Aussies.
Finish a memorable day with a quick tour through this famous hotel and go to bed tired but happy.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Halfway up the walk we come across Mirror Lake which is real haven of tranquility.
Finally reach the Tea House and Lake Agnes unscathed and enjoy a snack. Linger a while there while we soak up the fantastic setting.
I refuse Gertie's invitation to join in climbing up to a lookout called the Big Beehive, a very wise decision when we later see some walkers perched above a precipice at the top.
Returning to Lake Louise we head off to Moraine Lake with its famous 10 peaks each of 10,000 ft or more. Incredibly crowded although nothing can detract from the beauty of the lake and its backdrop of the majestic peaks.
Check into the Fairmont Hotel and find that we have been allocated plum rooms on the 8th Floor looking straight over the lake.
Encounter a small hitch when our loo won't flush but it's soon sorted out.
Dinner in the Brasserie at 6.30 at a table with a great view out over Lake Louise, although we all feel that the meal falls short of the mark. Our waitress Erin, a vivacious girl who obviously speaks her mind confides in us that e new chef only 3 days in the job is"bloody useless"! Erin is shortly due to join her boyfriend in Perth shortly and she should go down very well with the Aussies.
Finish a memorable day with a quick tour through this famous hotel and go to bed tired but happy.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Thursday 30th September- Lake Louise
Lyn's 60th birthday !
Breakfast at the Siding in Field as good as ever.
Drive to Banff to first take the famous Gondola. Very small cars and steepish climb which tests the old man again. However, the trip was well worthwhile with magnificent views of the whole area.
Return to the township and to the famous Banff Springs Hotel where we have Afternoon Tea to celebrate Lyn's birthday. Our waiter Mike's birthday as well and he shouts Lyn a glass of bubbly to mark the occasion. The tea offers a superb selection of food and the ambience in this classical old hotel is something very special.
Late afternoon drive around the Banff Springs Golf Course.Green Fees- Summer $225, Fall-$150.
The course is beautifully maintained and I imagine a very stern for any golfer.
The drive provide us with one moment of humour when we passed some elks on one of the fairways. One of the male tourists who had stopped to look at the animals commented that one of the bucks had followed a lady into the woods and looked in 'rutting' mood. The thought of this apparently came as a real shock to one of the female tourists until it was explained that the female in question was an elk and not one of the Scotch Wool Shop and Gaiter clad female golfers!
Return to Lake Louise to book into Paradise Cabins which are as usual very good standard.
Lyn has numerous messages for her birthday and all in all we think that she has had a lovely day celebrating her 60th.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret
Breakfast at the Siding in Field as good as ever.
Drive to Banff to first take the famous Gondola. Very small cars and steepish climb which tests the old man again. However, the trip was well worthwhile with magnificent views of the whole area.
Return to the township and to the famous Banff Springs Hotel where we have Afternoon Tea to celebrate Lyn's birthday. Our waiter Mike's birthday as well and he shouts Lyn a glass of bubbly to mark the occasion. The tea offers a superb selection of food and the ambience in this classical old hotel is something very special.
Late afternoon drive around the Banff Springs Golf Course.Green Fees- Summer $225, Fall-$150.
The course is beautifully maintained and I imagine a very stern for any golfer.
The drive provide us with one moment of humour when we passed some elks on one of the fairways. One of the male tourists who had stopped to look at the animals commented that one of the bucks had followed a lady into the woods and looked in 'rutting' mood. The thought of this apparently came as a real shock to one of the female tourists until it was explained that the female in question was an elk and not one of the Scotch Wool Shop and Gaiter clad female golfers!
Return to Lake Louise to book into Paradise Cabins which are as usual very good standard.
Lyn has numerous messages for her birthday and all in all we think that she has had a lovely day celebrating her 60th.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret
Wednesday 29th September - Chancellor Peak to Lake Louise.
Cold, foggy morning but the forecast is for fine weather later.
Drive to Field to have pancakes and coffee at the Siding before the drive up to Takakkaw Falls, disputably the highest in the Rockies at 254 metres. The drive up the valley is spectacular and on the way we stop to take look at the confluence of the Kicking Horse River ( clear white ) and the Yoho River ( silt-laden and cream). By the time of our arrival at the Falls the weather is bright and sunny and the 254 metre drop is a stunning sight. The day is also memorable for a lovely memorable written on a wooden bench in honour of a photographer with the words 'ses photos seulement temoignent de son passage". Would that we could all have such an epitaph.
Drive to Lake Louise with our first look at the world-famous lake and Fairmount Hotel. All of the superlatives are justified.
After a lakeside walk we call in at the Fairmont ( where we will be staying on 1st Oct for Lyn's birthday )to book dinner in the Brasserie. During walk meet up with two Danes ( one of them Swedish -speaking so we both brush up on our language skills for a short chat.
Back to Field for very high quality dinner at the Truffle Pig (recommended to us by the manager at our cabins ). TV screens in restaurant showing video on the life of Terry Fox, mentioned in an earlier blog, which gives us all some food for thought.
Trip back to the cabins quite eventful when truck tailgates us in wet weather and nearly runs us off the road. B responds by speeding up to 110 in a 90 zone! All of which leads us to another classic Gailism.
Ber was explaining that you should never get out of your car if stopped for speeding but Gail explained That in the USA the police are liable ask to get out of the vehicle and, HER WORDS, "straddle the bonnet"! This proposition has led to two outcomes:
1. Our future rental car options are limited to either a Mini Cooper or a Smartcar.
2. We have nominated Gail for the London Olympics in both the Horizontal Beam and the Floor Exercise, to add to the vault for which she is now a clear gold medal favourite!
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Drive to Field to have pancakes and coffee at the Siding before the drive up to Takakkaw Falls, disputably the highest in the Rockies at 254 metres. The drive up the valley is spectacular and on the way we stop to take look at the confluence of the Kicking Horse River ( clear white ) and the Yoho River ( silt-laden and cream). By the time of our arrival at the Falls the weather is bright and sunny and the 254 metre drop is a stunning sight. The day is also memorable for a lovely memorable written on a wooden bench in honour of a photographer with the words 'ses photos seulement temoignent de son passage". Would that we could all have such an epitaph.
Drive to Lake Louise with our first look at the world-famous lake and Fairmount Hotel. All of the superlatives are justified.
After a lakeside walk we call in at the Fairmont ( where we will be staying on 1st Oct for Lyn's birthday )to book dinner in the Brasserie. During walk meet up with two Danes ( one of them Swedish -speaking so we both brush up on our language skills for a short chat.
Back to Field for very high quality dinner at the Truffle Pig (recommended to us by the manager at our cabins ). TV screens in restaurant showing video on the life of Terry Fox, mentioned in an earlier blog, which gives us all some food for thought.
Trip back to the cabins quite eventful when truck tailgates us in wet weather and nearly runs us off the road. B responds by speeding up to 110 in a 90 zone! All of which leads us to another classic Gailism.
Ber was explaining that you should never get out of your car if stopped for speeding but Gail explained That in the USA the police are liable ask to get out of the vehicle and, HER WORDS, "straddle the bonnet"! This proposition has led to two outcomes:
1. Our future rental car options are limited to either a Mini Cooper or a Smartcar.
2. We have nominated Gail for the London Olympics in both the Horizontal Beam and the Floor Exercise, to add to the vault for which she is now a clear gold medal favourite!
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Tuesday 28th September - Chancellor Peaks area.
Short early morning walk down to Kicking Horse River after which we drive east to Golden in driving rain. Golden a fairly average town but in The Bean Bag coffee shop we find the best coffee yet in Canada.
Decide to visit a Wolf Park east of Golden and manage to bypass a landslide which has occurred further east and has blocked the highway, apparently a fairly regular event in the area. The Park is mediocre at best although the owners are gamely fighting a battle against the gun lobby to prevent what is basically the extermination of the wolf population. Apparently, the gun lobby and other pro-hunting associations have not learned anything from a similar experiment in the Yellowstone National Park where the cull of the wolves led to a complete breakdown of the food and vegetation chain.
Later, drive to Field, a delightful small town which was previously an important rail stop but has now ceded this position to Kamloops.
However, the town is beautifully maintained with many fine old buildings. General feeling that the inhabitants take real pride in the town as it tries to re-invent itself.
Lovely lunch at The Siding Cafe where I manage to break a glass with one of my more expansive gestures!
Highlights of the day:
The Natural Bridge over the Kicking Horse River - an incredible sight as the recent rains had created a torrent of tsunami-like proportions. The power of the water quite unnerving but the arrival of the sun and a double rainfall during a rain shower make for an unforgettable sight.
Emerald Lake - long regarded as the Jewel of the Rockies and it meets all expectations as the weather clears on cue with our arrival.
B and I take a short walk up to Hamilton Falls and we are faced with our first scenic disappointment. Without going into too much details we have renamed the Falls the Prostate Cascade!
All in all another great day even if for dinner yours truly is given the left over pasta from the previous day.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Decide to visit a Wolf Park east of Golden and manage to bypass a landslide which has occurred further east and has blocked the highway, apparently a fairly regular event in the area. The Park is mediocre at best although the owners are gamely fighting a battle against the gun lobby to prevent what is basically the extermination of the wolf population. Apparently, the gun lobby and other pro-hunting associations have not learned anything from a similar experiment in the Yellowstone National Park where the cull of the wolves led to a complete breakdown of the food and vegetation chain.
Later, drive to Field, a delightful small town which was previously an important rail stop but has now ceded this position to Kamloops.
However, the town is beautifully maintained with many fine old buildings. General feeling that the inhabitants take real pride in the town as it tries to re-invent itself.
Lovely lunch at The Siding Cafe where I manage to break a glass with one of my more expansive gestures!
Highlights of the day:
The Natural Bridge over the Kicking Horse River - an incredible sight as the recent rains had created a torrent of tsunami-like proportions. The power of the water quite unnerving but the arrival of the sun and a double rainfall during a rain shower make for an unforgettable sight.
Emerald Lake - long regarded as the Jewel of the Rockies and it meets all expectations as the weather clears on cue with our arrival.
B and I take a short walk up to Hamilton Falls and we are faced with our first scenic disappointment. Without going into too much details we have renamed the Falls the Prostate Cascade!
All in all another great day even if for dinner yours truly is given the left over pasta from the previous day.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Monday 29th September - Jasper to Chancellor Peaks
Head south towards Lake Louise with the first stop a visit to the Icefields Centre to view the Columbia Icefield. Take Glacier Experience tour on large snowmobile of which there are only 23 in the world. Not surprising given the price tag of $1.2 million. 22 of these are owned by the Brewster which seems to monopolise the industry in these parts and one by the USA Army in the Antarctic.
The snowmobile takes us out onto the Athabasca ( alt 2000 metres ) glacier which is 300 metres deep. Other main glacier is the Double A located between the Athabasca and Andromeda Mts.
Dome Mountain above the icefield marks the unusual Triple Continental Divide with rivers dividing here to run to Pacific, Arctic and Atlantic Oceans.
Move on to yet another visit to a narrow,deep canyon, this time Mistaya Canyon. Cross Bow Summit ( the highest point on the Icefields Parkway and from there take a 600 metre walk to lookout over Peyto Lake, a truly picturesque glacial lake.
Arrive in the world famous Lake Louise to do some grocery shopping before continuing on to the Chancellor Peak Chalets midway between Lake Louise and Golden. Directions to the chalets somewhat lacking, especially in the light of some road construction work. After missing the turnoff we are forced to drive about 40 kms out of our way but eventually reach our destination before it gets dark.
Chalets in a superb location although somewhat lacking in amenities.
Highlights of the day-
Saskatchewan Cross where the Howse, Mistaya and North Saskatchewan rivers meet.
Crowfoot Glacier which used to have 3 toes but has now lost one as the glacier has receded.
Sorry for such a boring blog which simply doesn't do justice to yet another spectacular day on tour.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
The snowmobile takes us out onto the Athabasca ( alt 2000 metres ) glacier which is 300 metres deep. Other main glacier is the Double A located between the Athabasca and Andromeda Mts.
Dome Mountain above the icefield marks the unusual Triple Continental Divide with rivers dividing here to run to Pacific, Arctic and Atlantic Oceans.
Move on to yet another visit to a narrow,deep canyon, this time Mistaya Canyon. Cross Bow Summit ( the highest point on the Icefields Parkway and from there take a 600 metre walk to lookout over Peyto Lake, a truly picturesque glacial lake.
Arrive in the world famous Lake Louise to do some grocery shopping before continuing on to the Chancellor Peak Chalets midway between Lake Louise and Golden. Directions to the chalets somewhat lacking, especially in the light of some road construction work. After missing the turnoff we are forced to drive about 40 kms out of our way but eventually reach our destination before it gets dark.
Chalets in a superb location although somewhat lacking in amenities.
Highlights of the day-
Saskatchewan Cross where the Howse, Mistaya and North Saskatchewan rivers meet.
Crowfoot Glacier which used to have 3 toes but has now lost one as the glacier has receded.
Sorry for such a boring blog which simply doesn't do justice to yet another spectacular day on tour.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Sunday 26th September - Jasper
B and I go into Jasper to buy bread rolls but B ends up with a loaf called Italian Stallion which contains cheese, garlic,tomato and God knows what else. ( Gail later orders 5 of these on the name alone until she realises that it's only bread.
Drive south to speccy Sunwapta Falls on the Athabasca River. Made a futile attempt to buy coffee and hot chocolate at the Falls cafe but sadly the Canadians share with their Americans a total inability to make such drinks.
Head to Athabasca Falls, supposedly the superior of the two but in my view the less impressive. Further north om the 93A we arrive at the confluence of 2 rivers, Athabasca and Whirlpool, the former a glacial blue and the latter a silt laden cream- a quite remarkable union of the two.
I take over the driving for the switchback road up to the north face of Mt Edith Cavell ( English nurse executed in 1916 by the Nazis for helping Allied prisoners-of-war ). Trip turns out to be very worthwhile as the views at the parking lot near the face are stupendous and the 3 glaciers, Angel, Ghost and Edith Cavell represent a fitting tribute to a very gallant lady.
Dinner at O'Sheas in Jasper. B orders a steak sandwich which arrives with enough french fries to keep the local potato farmers in business for a year!
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Drive south to speccy Sunwapta Falls on the Athabasca River. Made a futile attempt to buy coffee and hot chocolate at the Falls cafe but sadly the Canadians share with their Americans a total inability to make such drinks.
Head to Athabasca Falls, supposedly the superior of the two but in my view the less impressive. Further north om the 93A we arrive at the confluence of 2 rivers, Athabasca and Whirlpool, the former a glacial blue and the latter a silt laden cream- a quite remarkable union of the two.
I take over the driving for the switchback road up to the north face of Mt Edith Cavell ( English nurse executed in 1916 by the Nazis for helping Allied prisoners-of-war ). Trip turns out to be very worthwhile as the views at the parking lot near the face are stupendous and the 3 glaciers, Angel, Ghost and Edith Cavell represent a fitting tribute to a very gallant lady.
Dinner at O'Sheas in Jasper. B orders a steak sandwich which arrives with enough french fries to keep the local potato farmers in business for a year!
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Saturday 25th September- Jasper
Awake to the news that Colligwood and St Kilda have played a 68 all draw in the AFL Grand Final.
Make up picnic lunch to drive to Maligne Canyon, Medicine Lake and Maligne Lake, the latter being one of the most photographed scenes in Canada.
Maligne Canyon is 51 metres at its deepest and quite breathtaking. Medicine Lake drains each year during Oct -April period as the water disappears into what is reputedly the longest underground river system in the world.
Lake Maligne lives up to its reputation with its stunning mountainous backdrop. Incidentally, the name 'maligne' is from the French meaning 'wicked' and was named by an early explorer who lost a couple of his packhorses in the 'wicked river'.
On the way to the Lake we see an elk at very close quarters on the road but the highlight of the day is undoubtedly finding a huge herd of elks on the river bed as we return to Jasper. Crowds of people line the river banks in the hope of seeing some 'rutting' action but the females seem uninterested in the ageing old buck ( sounds vaguely familiar!). Some guy had obviously had a close encounter with one of the more aggressive bucks judging by the jocks left lying in the grass.
Home-cooked pasta and a good bottle of red complete a great day.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Make up picnic lunch to drive to Maligne Canyon, Medicine Lake and Maligne Lake, the latter being one of the most photographed scenes in Canada.
Maligne Canyon is 51 metres at its deepest and quite breathtaking. Medicine Lake drains each year during Oct -April period as the water disappears into what is reputedly the longest underground river system in the world.
Lake Maligne lives up to its reputation with its stunning mountainous backdrop. Incidentally, the name 'maligne' is from the French meaning 'wicked' and was named by an early explorer who lost a couple of his packhorses in the 'wicked river'.
On the way to the Lake we see an elk at very close quarters on the road but the highlight of the day is undoubtedly finding a huge herd of elks on the river bed as we return to Jasper. Crowds of people line the river banks in the hope of seeing some 'rutting' action but the females seem uninterested in the ageing old buck ( sounds vaguely familiar!). Some guy had obviously had a close encounter with one of the more aggressive bucks judging by the jocks left lying in the grass.
Home-cooked pasta and a good bottle of red complete a great day.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Friday 24th September- Kamloops to Jasper
On the road by 8.00 to head for Jasper. Scenery less spectacular than previously and fairly barren with trees either destroyed by fire or stricken by disease.
After Clearwater the countryside along the North Thompson River increasingly attractive with glacial lakes galore.
Call in at Blue River to check our River Safari Bear Watching, great poster to entice us but at $80 a head we decided that the boat trips did not really offer much that we had not already seen on earlier bear-sightings in Alaska. As we approach Valemouth the mountains become increasingly more grand and we call in at Valemouth Motel to enjoy some superb homemade burgers. The hotel was a bit like something out of 'Deliverance' but the chef obviously knew what he was doing.
Visit Mt.Robson, highest point in the Rockies, and call into Rearguard Falls, notable as the place where only the strongest Chinook salmon reach after 800 miles upstream, to then die or be eaten by a bear!
Gain the first view of Mt Terry Fox, named as a tribute to a young cancer sufferer from Ontario who died at the age of 23 in 1980 and undertook his Marathon of Hope across Canada in spite of being an amputee. Sadly Terry succumbed to his cancer shortly after completing his walk but he has since been an inspiration to so many cancer sufferers and this year there will be a 30th Anniversary Terry Fox Run in his honour. "Carpe Diem" everybody!
Arrive at Beckers Cabins just outside Jasper as the weather gradually closes in. Log cabins beautifully appointed and in a superb setting.
Takeaway pizzas for dinner then early to bed. Stereophonic snoring from that well-known folk group The Yelverton Sisters( in separate rooms, by the way ) makes for a less than perfect night's sleep and reminds us fellows of the nights when we were kept awake by them for more romantic reasons!
Cheers
The Obese Ferret who may not survive to write another blog after that little aside.
After Clearwater the countryside along the North Thompson River increasingly attractive with glacial lakes galore.
Call in at Blue River to check our River Safari Bear Watching, great poster to entice us but at $80 a head we decided that the boat trips did not really offer much that we had not already seen on earlier bear-sightings in Alaska. As we approach Valemouth the mountains become increasingly more grand and we call in at Valemouth Motel to enjoy some superb homemade burgers. The hotel was a bit like something out of 'Deliverance' but the chef obviously knew what he was doing.
Visit Mt.Robson, highest point in the Rockies, and call into Rearguard Falls, notable as the place where only the strongest Chinook salmon reach after 800 miles upstream, to then die or be eaten by a bear!
Gain the first view of Mt Terry Fox, named as a tribute to a young cancer sufferer from Ontario who died at the age of 23 in 1980 and undertook his Marathon of Hope across Canada in spite of being an amputee. Sadly Terry succumbed to his cancer shortly after completing his walk but he has since been an inspiration to so many cancer sufferers and this year there will be a 30th Anniversary Terry Fox Run in his honour. "Carpe Diem" everybody!
Arrive at Beckers Cabins just outside Jasper as the weather gradually closes in. Log cabins beautifully appointed and in a superb setting.
Takeaway pizzas for dinner then early to bed. Stereophonic snoring from that well-known folk group The Yelverton Sisters( in separate rooms, by the way ) makes for a less than perfect night's sleep and reminds us fellows of the nights when we were kept awake by them for more romantic reasons!
Cheers
The Obese Ferret who may not survive to write another blog after that little aside.
Thursday 23rd September- Whistler to Kamloops
Leave unit as planned by 8.00 and head towards Pemberton on a drizzly,misty morning. In no way detracts from the scenery which is as stunning as ever. Visit Nairn Falls and stop for the obligatory coffee, this time at McDonalds and as usual the coffee is crap. The next section covers some of the most hair-raising and speccy scenery between Pemberton and Lillooet. Cayoosh River Canyon awe-inspiring. Bert doing his Juan Fangio bit,drop down to river far too deep even from my usual vantage point hiding behind the driver on the side away from the edge.
Great lunch at Grammy's ,under new ownership and with a first- day- on- the- job waitress totally panic-stricken by the flood of people attracted by the fantastic food on offer. G is introduced to Perogies, a form of steamed dough with filling, a cross between ravioli and samosa.
B now driving more serenely through the very arid area to Cache Creek ,reminiscent of the Almeria area of Spain.
Arrive at Kamloops by 4.00 and check into the Arcadia Motel. Motel comfortable if basic and Kamloops a drab commercial town, rather a let-down after the beauty of the previous days.
Introduce Bert to the delights of the Denny's restaurant chain which always offers good standard fare.
Finish off the day trying to catch up on blogs.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Great lunch at Grammy's ,under new ownership and with a first- day- on- the- job waitress totally panic-stricken by the flood of people attracted by the fantastic food on offer. G is introduced to Perogies, a form of steamed dough with filling, a cross between ravioli and samosa.
B now driving more serenely through the very arid area to Cache Creek ,reminiscent of the Almeria area of Spain.
Arrive at Kamloops by 4.00 and check into the Arcadia Motel. Motel comfortable if basic and Kamloops a drab commercial town, rather a let-down after the beauty of the previous days.
Introduce Bert to the delights of the Denny's restaurant chain which always offers good standard fare.
Finish off the day trying to catch up on blogs.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Friday, October 1, 2010
Wednesday 22nd September- Whistler
Superb day so we drive on Highway 99 To Whistler 2010 Olympic Village in the Callaghan Valley, venue for the Biathlon,Nordic Skiing and the Ski Jump.
Short trip further to the impressive Branywise Falls then back to Whistler for yet another meal at Citta- a tuna melt of gigantic proportions.
Next stop is the Whistler Museum which features sections on Dave Murray, the Canadian Skier who died of a melanoma at 37 and was part of the famous Crazy Kanucks skiing team.
Nearby is the very moving tribute from the people of Whistler to the luger from Kazakstan who died in the Olympics earlier this year.
Decide to take a bear-watching tour up the Whistler Mountain with Michael Allan, a very well-known bear expert. Quite apart from the scenery from 5000 ft up which is spectacular we do manage 14 bear and 5 deer sightings, some at very close quarters.
Early to bed after tiring but very rewarding day.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Short trip further to the impressive Branywise Falls then back to Whistler for yet another meal at Citta- a tuna melt of gigantic proportions.
Next stop is the Whistler Museum which features sections on Dave Murray, the Canadian Skier who died of a melanoma at 37 and was part of the famous Crazy Kanucks skiing team.
Nearby is the very moving tribute from the people of Whistler to the luger from Kazakstan who died in the Olympics earlier this year.
Decide to take a bear-watching tour up the Whistler Mountain with Michael Allan, a very well-known bear expert. Quite apart from the scenery from 5000 ft up which is spectacular we do manage 14 bear and 5 deer sightings, some at very close quarters.
Early to bed after tiring but very rewarding day.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Tuesday 21st September- Whistler
Sleep in till 8.20. L and B go for short while G and I take our time over breakfast.Drive into town to book tickets for the Peak to Peak cable car from Whistler Peak to Blackcomb Peak. Truly breathtaking and a real test of my nerves as the main span is 415 metres above the river below.
Light snow on both peaks and the excitement of seeing 2 adult black bears with 2 cubs from the cable car. Short trek towards the peak of Blackcomb provide us with some wonderful views of the surrounding mountain slopes.
Back down in Whistler B finally manages to purchases some new Merrell shoes and we all head to Citta restaurant to enjoy an inexpensive but good quality meal.
Back to unit where we watch " The Bucket List' with Jack Nicholson and Morgan Freedman, a film which still resonates with us the second tome around ( maybe our advancing years have some part to play ).
Cheers
The Obese Ferret
Light snow on both peaks and the excitement of seeing 2 adult black bears with 2 cubs from the cable car. Short trek towards the peak of Blackcomb provide us with some wonderful views of the surrounding mountain slopes.
Back down in Whistler B finally manages to purchases some new Merrell shoes and we all head to Citta restaurant to enjoy an inexpensive but good quality meal.
Back to unit where we watch " The Bucket List' with Jack Nicholson and Morgan Freedman, a film which still resonates with us the second tome around ( maybe our advancing years have some part to play ).
Cheers
The Obese Ferret
Monday 20 th September- Victoria and return to Vancouver.
Breakfast at hotel followed by walk along the lovely seafront. Call into the grand old hotel The Empress, view the impossibly narrow street Fan Tan Alley, which featured in the film " Bird on the Wire" with Mel Gibson.
Return to Vancouver by bus/ferry to pick up Jeep Commander from Hertz, who lived down to their reputation by making us wait an eternity.
Set off at about 5 pm for long drive along the Sea to Sky Highway 99, the magnificent road linking Vancouver with Whistler. Short stop along the way to view the beautiful Shannon Falls.
Our unit at Woods in Whistler is ideal and superbly fitted-out.
Decide to opt for takeaway pizza for dinner from Pizza Cafe ( a very original name ) which we eventually located after Bert and I had brought to bear our formidable map-reading talents. Needless to say we ate rather late that evening!
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Return to Vancouver by bus/ferry to pick up Jeep Commander from Hertz, who lived down to their reputation by making us wait an eternity.
Set off at about 5 pm for long drive along the Sea to Sky Highway 99, the magnificent road linking Vancouver with Whistler. Short stop along the way to view the beautiful Shannon Falls.
Our unit at Woods in Whistler is ideal and superbly fitted-out.
Decide to opt for takeaway pizza for dinner from Pizza Cafe ( a very original name ) which we eventually located after Bert and I had brought to bear our formidable map-reading talents. Needless to say we ate rather late that evening!
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Sunday 19th September- Trip to Victoria
Early start to catch Pacific Bus which will take us on the bus/ferry trip over to Victoria, British Columbia's capital.
Very wet initially but gradually clearing. Bert's fears about the ferry unfounded as the sea like a millpond.
Victoria is a beautiful, stylish city with 35000 inhabitants. The hotel Admiral is ideal and convenient.
Take a tour to the apparently world famous Butchart Gardens ( this horticultural ignoramus had never heard of them but WA's answer to Peter Cundall, Lyn, was full of stories of their reknown.
Established in the 1920's by the Butchart family (who had made their money setting up Portland Cement ) they are quite simply the finest gardens I have ever seen.
Return to the city for a superb meal at the Keg restaurant after which we walk along the harbour front, getting a great view of the illuminated public buildings, including the State Parliament.
Humourous moment of the day- Bert's attempt to get coffee from an auto dispenser for $1.50. During the process the machine asked Bert for his own cup so he left empty-handed. We didn't stay around long enough to find out whether some passnger left the ferry covered in Bert's cappucino!
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Very wet initially but gradually clearing. Bert's fears about the ferry unfounded as the sea like a millpond.
Victoria is a beautiful, stylish city with 35000 inhabitants. The hotel Admiral is ideal and convenient.
Take a tour to the apparently world famous Butchart Gardens ( this horticultural ignoramus had never heard of them but WA's answer to Peter Cundall, Lyn, was full of stories of their reknown.
Established in the 1920's by the Butchart family (who had made their money setting up Portland Cement ) they are quite simply the finest gardens I have ever seen.
Return to the city for a superb meal at the Keg restaurant after which we walk along the harbour front, getting a great view of the illuminated public buildings, including the State Parliament.
Humourous moment of the day- Bert's attempt to get coffee from an auto dispenser for $1.50. During the process the machine asked Bert for his own cup so he left empty-handed. We didn't stay around long enough to find out whether some passnger left the ferry covered in Bert's cappucino!
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Saturday 18th September- Vancouver
Now very much under the weather so late getting up on a drizzly, grey day.
While Lyn and Bert go off to buy new suitcase (old one damaged by the cruise ship baggage handling staff ) Gail and I take walk along the foreshore again and head down to Gastown, formerly a sleazy part of the city but now a very trendy enclave.
Meet up with Lyn and Bert to walk through yet another seedy part of the city to Chinatown. Visit the Chinese Garden of Sun Yat Sen,scholar who was instrumental in the overthrow of the Ching Dynasty to instal democracy.
G and L take ferry to Granville Island, known for its market, while Bert and I take a cab, collect the new suitcase and return to the suite. By now yours truly is now feeling in a condition just short of rigor mortis so off to bed for a while in the early evening. Wake up to partake of the fish and chips which L and G had bought. B not eating as has an upset stomach, maybe at the thought of next day's ferry trip to Victoria. ( Bert's now well-documented aversion to sea travel makes me look like Lord Nelson!)
Early to bed for a night during which I cough all night like an elephant seal and Gail snores. As Mr McCawber said " result misery"
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
While Lyn and Bert go off to buy new suitcase (old one damaged by the cruise ship baggage handling staff ) Gail and I take walk along the foreshore again and head down to Gastown, formerly a sleazy part of the city but now a very trendy enclave.
Meet up with Lyn and Bert to walk through yet another seedy part of the city to Chinatown. Visit the Chinese Garden of Sun Yat Sen,scholar who was instrumental in the overthrow of the Ching Dynasty to instal democracy.
G and L take ferry to Granville Island, known for its market, while Bert and I take a cab, collect the new suitcase and return to the suite. By now yours truly is now feeling in a condition just short of rigor mortis so off to bed for a while in the early evening. Wake up to partake of the fish and chips which L and G had bought. B not eating as has an upset stomach, maybe at the thought of next day's ferry trip to Victoria. ( Bert's now well-documented aversion to sea travel makes me look like Lord Nelson!)
Early to bed for a night during which I cough all night like an elephant seal and Gail snores. As Mr McCawber said " result misery"
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Friday 17th September-Arrival in Vancouver
Up early for disembarkation.Cab to Rosellen Suites at Stanley Park. Well appointed spacious unit, in leafy street. Considering Vancouver voted one of the world's most liveable cities the visit to the downturn area a great disappointment with many derelicts in the streets and a generally run-down look. The foreshore by contrast is delightful with many reminders of the 2010 Winter Olympics.
Afternoon visit to a superb aquarium with belugas, dolphins and last but definitely not least the sea otters the main features.
Finished off an otherwise uneventful day with a decidedly mediocre meal at a local grill although I suspect that we have been spoiled by the quality of cuisine on offer on board the cruise ship.
My cold now taking a turn for the worse so off to bed early.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret
Afternoon visit to a superb aquarium with belugas, dolphins and last but definitely not least the sea otters the main features.
Finished off an otherwise uneventful day with a decidedly mediocre meal at a local grill although I suspect that we have been spoiled by the quality of cuisine on offer on board the cruise ship.
My cold now taking a turn for the worse so off to bed early.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret
Monday, September 27, 2010
Thursday 16th September-All day at sea
Awake to fairly choppy seas and Bert feeling a very ancient mariner.Apparently he is also looking the worse for wear but it is a bit difficult to gauge from the top half of a rather green face peering out from under the bed clothes!
He recovers enough for all of us to catch a very entertaining show put on by some of the crew members. Variable quality but a gutsy effort by all concerned.
11.30-Visit to the bridge following an invitation from Andrew Harris, the ship's Hotel Director, whom I had met the day before on the stairs. He is an absolute fitness fanatic and obviously saw in me a kindred spirit and another finely tuned athlete.
Quiet afternoon as we travel the 530 miles between Ketchikan and Vancouver.
Bert feeling much better and back on the desserts for lunch.
Late afternoon and early evening spent looking for Orcas, ( all to no avail) but we do encounter at fairly close quarters a huge pod of white-sided dolphins attracted to our ship.
Finally enter the famed Inside Passage which lives up to all of the advance publicity and more.
Dinner in Waterfall Bistro as good as ever and the day finishes with a quick and somewhat farcical game of table tennis.( vaguely reminiscent of Doug Walters being asked to find the snooker table on board the ship on his debut trip to the UK)
Late phone call to Lyn and Bert from their son Dean to let them know that he has broken his collar bone in a motorbike accident. Boys will be boys!
The Obese Ferret
PS More to come when I have adjusted to becoming a landlubber again.
He recovers enough for all of us to catch a very entertaining show put on by some of the crew members. Variable quality but a gutsy effort by all concerned.
11.30-Visit to the bridge following an invitation from Andrew Harris, the ship's Hotel Director, whom I had met the day before on the stairs. He is an absolute fitness fanatic and obviously saw in me a kindred spirit and another finely tuned athlete.
Quiet afternoon as we travel the 530 miles between Ketchikan and Vancouver.
Bert feeling much better and back on the desserts for lunch.
Late afternoon and early evening spent looking for Orcas, ( all to no avail) but we do encounter at fairly close quarters a huge pod of white-sided dolphins attracted to our ship.
Finally enter the famed Inside Passage which lives up to all of the advance publicity and more.
Dinner in Waterfall Bistro as good as ever and the day finishes with a quick and somewhat farcical game of table tennis.( vaguely reminiscent of Doug Walters being asked to find the snooker table on board the ship on his debut trip to the UK)
Late phone call to Lyn and Bert from their son Dean to let them know that he has broken his collar bone in a motorbike accident. Boys will be boys!
The Obese Ferret
PS More to come when I have adjusted to becoming a landlubber again.
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Wednesday 15th September-Arrival in Ketchikan
Arrive am in Ketchikan and decide not to take any of the numerous tours on offer. Instead we take a stroll around town, especially the area around the creek feeding into the bay. What we saw at the creek was both fascinating and very confronting as literally thousands of salmon tried to get upstream to spawn. So many do not make it and the creek banks are littered with dead and rotting bodies. It was particularly hard to watch fish in their death-throes gasping to take their last breath in the shallow water. Apparently the salmon die,not because of the effort of swimming upstream but because their bodies react adversely to the freshwater after spending so much time in the salt water of the ocean. Obviously some are taken by bears when they have almost reached their spawning grounds- life just ain't fair sometimes.
Visit to salmon hatchery ok but the young guide was Alaska's answer to Kylie Mole,only less articulate.
Ketchikan generally rather unsavoury and Bert apparently viewed a blood-soaked body through the window of house on our way back to the ship. The attitude of police outside the house seemed to suggest that this was just another everyday occurrence.
No lunch during the day as we have been building up to a special dinner( another formal dress occasion) in the very up-market Olympic restaurant. Olympic was a 1920's sister ship to the Titanic and the wooden panels from the original ship now adorn the walls of the Olympic restaurant.
All in all a memorable evening topped of by a very impressive 'Broadway' show in the Celebrity Theatre.
Someone has to do it!
Cheers
The Rapidly Beoming More Obese Ferret
Visit to salmon hatchery ok but the young guide was Alaska's answer to Kylie Mole,only less articulate.
Ketchikan generally rather unsavoury and Bert apparently viewed a blood-soaked body through the window of house on our way back to the ship. The attitude of police outside the house seemed to suggest that this was just another everyday occurrence.
No lunch during the day as we have been building up to a special dinner( another formal dress occasion) in the very up-market Olympic restaurant. Olympic was a 1920's sister ship to the Titanic and the wooden panels from the original ship now adorn the walls of the Olympic restaurant.
All in all a memorable evening topped of by a very impressive 'Broadway' show in the Celebrity Theatre.
Someone has to do it!
Cheers
The Rapidly Beoming More Obese Ferret
Tuesday 14th September-Arrival in Icy Point Strait
Relatively late start but take the tender into the jetty at Hoonah as harbour too shallow for ships of the size of the Millenium. Hoonah on ICP is a small native Alaskan Indian community with a very informative museum providing some background to the very tough early days in this area.
Leisurely stroll along beach and through forest a pleasant change.
Resist the temptation to take the longest zipline in the world- 1 mile long,1300 ft vertical drop and top speed of 60 mph.
Uneventful evening with last dinner at the Metropolitan Restaurant- excellent as always as our waistlines are starting to testify.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Leisurely stroll along beach and through forest a pleasant change.
Resist the temptation to take the longest zipline in the world- 1 mile long,1300 ft vertical drop and top speed of 60 mph.
Uneventful evening with last dinner at the Metropolitan Restaurant- excellent as always as our waistlines are starting to testify.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Monday 13th September-Arrival in Skagway
Early arrival in Skagway,former Klondike Gold Rush town in a superb location.After some gym work(!) walk into town and take the White Pass and Yukon train to White Pass Summit. Quite the most spectacular rail trip I have taken and definite brown trouser territory. Apparently we crossed over a cantilever bridge 1000 ft above a gorge but my view was a little obscured from under the seat.
Skagway a beautifully preserved town in contrast to its twin rush town of Dyea which is now no more.Local Rail Museum gives a real insight into the hardships of the gold prospectors who had to carry a full year's provisions to be allowed up to the Klondike goldfields.
Back on board by 4.00 and have dinner at the Waterfall Bistro for a change of scenery. Great ambience and food.
Question of the day which I posed to the Captain when I met him by chance on the stairs- when does a boat become a ship? His answer- any vessel carrying more than 12 passengers and more than 12 metres.I think I'll get a second opinion!
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Skagway a beautifully preserved town in contrast to its twin rush town of Dyea which is now no more.Local Rail Museum gives a real insight into the hardships of the gold prospectors who had to carry a full year's provisions to be allowed up to the Klondike goldfields.
Back on board by 4.00 and have dinner at the Waterfall Bistro for a change of scenery. Great ambience and food.
Question of the day which I posed to the Captain when I met him by chance on the stairs- when does a boat become a ship? His answer- any vessel carrying more than 12 passengers and more than 12 metres.I think I'll get a second opinion!
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Friday, September 24, 2010
Sunday 12th September-Arrival in Juneau.
Arrive in Juneau, the capital of Alaska at 8.00 am on another superb day weather-wise. Relaxed breakfast in the Aqua Bar, which offers a healthy option.( quite sparcely populated).
Shortly after disembarking we take a tramcar up to Mt Roberts ( 4000 ft) which ,given my well -documented aversion to heights , is quite a test. This will one of a number of occasions when my brown pants come in handy.
In spite of some of the usual (for me that is) gastro problemswe decide to take a bus/boat tour, first to Mendenhall Glacier and later out into the bay for some whale-spotting.
The bus driver, Patrick looks like a derelict but turns out to be quite a well-read character who gives us a very informative short tour of Juneau before heading to the glacier.
The skipper of the boat,a young guy called Chad, is a very laid-back young fellow who nevertheless manages to find some humpbacks for us to view at close quarters. Only towards the end of the trip does he reveal that the Orcas have now moved too far south for us to see. Any temptation to keel-haul him passed fairly quickly and we just made the most of the situation.
Another Gailism when she identifies a group of seagulls as ducks, much to Chad's amusement-definitely one for the archives.
On to Skagway.
All the best
The Obese Ferret.
Shortly after disembarking we take a tramcar up to Mt Roberts ( 4000 ft) which ,given my well -documented aversion to heights , is quite a test. This will one of a number of occasions when my brown pants come in handy.
In spite of some of the usual (for me that is) gastro problemswe decide to take a bus/boat tour, first to Mendenhall Glacier and later out into the bay for some whale-spotting.
The bus driver, Patrick looks like a derelict but turns out to be quite a well-read character who gives us a very informative short tour of Juneau before heading to the glacier.
The skipper of the boat,a young guy called Chad, is a very laid-back young fellow who nevertheless manages to find some humpbacks for us to view at close quarters. Only towards the end of the trip does he reveal that the Orcas have now moved too far south for us to see. Any temptation to keel-haul him passed fairly quickly and we just made the most of the situation.
Another Gailism when she identifies a group of seagulls as ducks, much to Chad's amusement-definitely one for the archives.
On to Skagway.
All the best
The Obese Ferret.
Monday, September 20, 2010
10th September- Seward and departure on Celebrity ship Millenium to Vancouver.
Relatively late start on a beautiful clear day. Check out boarding details for ship before going for a short hike on Two Trails Track above Seward township. Take little notice of warning signs on forest trail and taken aback to learn later that a bear and 2 cubs had been seen very close to our exit point from the trail only a few minutes earlier. We had seen some droppings on the trail which contained some of the red berries for which the bears have a liking but weren't sure whether they came from a bear or someone who had eaten some berries and had encountered the bear along the trail!
Gail's earlier 'comfort stop' on the trail started to take on a whole new dimension.
Quick walk along the harbour front gave us the highlight of the day- a very close-up view of a sea otter,flat on his back in the water feasting on a huge pile of kelp.
Boarded Millenium at 4 pm and pleasantly surprised to find that we had a spacious stateroom with large double bed and view out over the water. Gail and I are not usually nervous sailors but we have taken to wearing our lifejackets all the time and the fact that our stateroom attendant is called Mohammed is entirely coincidental!
We had been considering going on whale-watch boat trip but an early stroll through the pool and spa area made us realise that once you have seem one you have seen them all, even if they are masquerading as humans.
The ship is beautifully appointed in every way and the dinner in the Metropolitan restaurant was superb.
Lowlight of the day- being advised that our Alaskan ULU blades had been confiscated by the security staff on board in spite of the fact that they are on sale in the shops on the ship. Later find out that the blades will be returned to us at the end of the cruise.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Gail's earlier 'comfort stop' on the trail started to take on a whole new dimension.
Quick walk along the harbour front gave us the highlight of the day- a very close-up view of a sea otter,flat on his back in the water feasting on a huge pile of kelp.
Boarded Millenium at 4 pm and pleasantly surprised to find that we had a spacious stateroom with large double bed and view out over the water. Gail and I are not usually nervous sailors but we have taken to wearing our lifejackets all the time and the fact that our stateroom attendant is called Mohammed is entirely coincidental!
We had been considering going on whale-watch boat trip but an early stroll through the pool and spa area made us realise that once you have seem one you have seen them all, even if they are masquerading as humans.
The ship is beautifully appointed in every way and the dinner in the Metropolitan restaurant was superb.
Lowlight of the day- being advised that our Alaskan ULU blades had been confiscated by the security staff on board in spite of the fact that they are on sale in the shops on the ship. Later find out that the blades will be returned to us at the end of the cruise.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
Friday, September 10, 2010
9th September- Anchorage to Seward by train.
Touted as one of the iconic railway journeys in the world this 4 hour journey exceeded all expectations,taking us through some truly spectacular mountain scenery,complete with glaciers at very close quarters. Our decision to pay the extra for the scenic Dome car on the train proved to be 'spot-on' and it made for an unforgettable trip.
Had hoped to take a half-day boat trip around the bay at Seward but we appear to have arrived just a bit too late for the real action with the orcas, migratory birds, sea otters etc. Instead will probably do short walk up the lower reaches of Mt Marathon which every 4th July is the scene for a footrace to the summit ( record time to date 43 minutes).
Seeward a very pleasant port in a superb setting and this will be our point of departure tomorrow on our cruise down to Vancouver ( 7 nights, 6 days ).
All of us are eating far too much and are starting to resemble the Steller Sea Lions which we viewed today in the Seeward Sealife Centre!
Update on Gail Irelandisms- comment that 'there's a mountain here somewhere' when trying to find one of Alaska's major peaks on zoom. Given our location at the time it must go down as one of the all-time understatements.
From the Obese Ferret.
Had hoped to take a half-day boat trip around the bay at Seward but we appear to have arrived just a bit too late for the real action with the orcas, migratory birds, sea otters etc. Instead will probably do short walk up the lower reaches of Mt Marathon which every 4th July is the scene for a footrace to the summit ( record time to date 43 minutes).
Seeward a very pleasant port in a superb setting and this will be our point of departure tomorrow on our cruise down to Vancouver ( 7 nights, 6 days ).
All of us are eating far too much and are starting to resemble the Steller Sea Lions which we viewed today in the Seeward Sealife Centre!
Update on Gail Irelandisms- comment that 'there's a mountain here somewhere' when trying to find one of Alaska's major peaks on zoom. Given our location at the time it must go down as one of the all-time understatements.
From the Obese Ferret.
Thursday, September 9, 2010
8th Sept. Copper Center to Anchorage.
Manage to get away from B & B by 9.30 on a fairly overcast morning for a 200+ mile drive to Anchorage.First part of the drive through some decidedly run-down areas which had obviously been part of the mining boom at some time! Scenery mediocre initially but after milepost 143 ( distance from Anchorage ) things pick up and at 101 the sight of the Matanuska glacier was truly awe-inspiring. Followed the Matanuska River down to Palmer which appeared to be one of the more civilised small towns in the area.
Ramada Inn in Anchorage a very pleasant surprise in a city which is as disappointing as the rest of the state is magnificent. Meal at fish restaurant. Food good but service appalling with waiter charging 15% service fee which is usually only automatic for groups of 6 or more. Ironically, we had been paying 15% tips in all previous eating places but it was more the gall of assuming that their arrogant, dismissive, grumpy behaviour deserved such a fee.
Turn in early as have to leave on train at 6.45 am for Seward.
More soon including a few flashbacks to earlier days of this great trip when I was slow to get my muse working!
Ramada Inn in Anchorage a very pleasant surprise in a city which is as disappointing as the rest of the state is magnificent. Meal at fish restaurant. Food good but service appalling with waiter charging 15% service fee which is usually only automatic for groups of 6 or more. Ironically, we had been paying 15% tips in all previous eating places but it was more the gall of assuming that their arrogant, dismissive, grumpy behaviour deserved such a fee.
Turn in early as have to leave on train at 6.45 am for Seward.
More soon including a few flashbacks to earlier days of this great trip when I was slow to get my muse working!
Copper Mine Alaska- 7th Sept
Set off about midday from Fairbanks heading for Copper Mine and our accommodation at Copper Moose Cabin B & B. Views of the Alaskan Ranges to the east quite superb with the peaks of Mt Sanford, Wrangell and Drum visible for much of the afternoon. Bert did some of the driving but I wimped it mid-afternoon and took over when we came to what I thought was a mountain pass. The pass turned out to be nothing more than a drive across a plateau.
Arrive late arvo to be greeted by CD and Cathy, the owners of the Copper Moose, and to be presented with a birthday cake that CD had baked for me!
Off to nearby lodge run by Russians for dinner. The traditional dishes were a real treat, topped off by a good local brew of Alaskan beer.
Return to B & B to be regaled by stories from CD about his 20 + years working on the Alaska Oil Pipeline. Tales of corruption( some of it no doubt perpetrated by CD ), fornication ( not so sure about his participation in this area ) and very big pay packets.
Later than hoped into bed but all in all a memorable 66th in this truly remarkable state.
Arrive late arvo to be greeted by CD and Cathy, the owners of the Copper Moose, and to be presented with a birthday cake that CD had baked for me!
Off to nearby lodge run by Russians for dinner. The traditional dishes were a real treat, topped off by a good local brew of Alaskan beer.
Return to B & B to be regaled by stories from CD about his 20 + years working on the Alaska Oil Pipeline. Tales of corruption( some of it no doubt perpetrated by CD ), fornication ( not so sure about his participation in this area ) and very big pay packets.
Later than hoped into bed but all in all a memorable 66th in this truly remarkable state.
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Qantas flight
Now back in WA after a less than enjoyable flight with the national carrier. Either they have reduced still further the pitch between the seats or I am experiencing a growth spurt very late in life! The lady in front of me was apparently very tired, decided to forgo the 'delicious' dinner and instead recline her seat at the earliest opportunity. To add insult to injury my seat had jammed and was locked in the upright position. The result - 3+ hours in a foetal position.
Gradually returning to my full height ( which is not very impressive at the best of times) after some work in our rapidly developing garden.
Gradually returning to my full height ( which is not very impressive at the best of times) after some work in our rapidly developing garden.
Sunday, August 1, 2010
Wallabies
Men against boys! The hounds will be after Robbie Deans very soon unless the 'potential' becomes reality.
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