I am up early to walk down to the Trevi Fountain before the Madding Crowd arrives and what a delight it is to enjoy this great monument in peace and quiet.
Breakfast, a quick phone call to Craig, check out from the hotel and then set off on the long walk, past the magnificent Vittorio Emanuele 11 monument, to the statue of Garibaldi, high above the city in Il Gianicolo garden. A very strenuous climb was rewarded by a panoramic view of Rome and from this vantage point it comes as a surprise to see that The Vittorio Emanuele Monument is in fact higher than virtually all other buildings in the city, with the exception of St Peter's.
Easier walk back down to St Peter's square but time constraints mean that we have no hope of getting into the cathedral itself. Noticeable how many large-scale posters/photographs there are of the late Pope John Paul all around Rome and elsewhere in Italy and how they appear to represent the huge affection and devotion felt for this man compared to the current pontiff.
Back to the hotel for transport to the airport. Flight delayed due to bad weather in Frankfurt but one hour later we are off on a very bumpy flight.
Our 2 month stay in various parts of Europe has been truly memorable so it's now time to start planning our next adventure. G has already guaranteed that it will NOT include a 310 kms bike ride!
The Obese Ferret signing off until he can next bore you all to tears.
To those people who have followed the blog- a big 'thank you'. To everybody else- I can't help it if you don't appreciate literary genius when you see it!
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Saturday 4th June Rome
Lovely breakfast and then it's off on our walking tour of one of the world's great cities, even with the hordes of tourists.
First port of call is The Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps, shopping of the window and real variety and then continue to the architectural wonder, the Pantheon and thence to our favourite square in Rome, the Piazza Navona. Quick visit to Castel Sant'Angelo and St Peter's ( both from the outside only ) and then it's back to P. Navona for a long-overdue drink at one of the many bars. While here we meet up with a very friendly couple, Neil, originally from Liverpool but now living in Dussledorf and his partner, Marta, born in Poland but now settled in Frankfurt.
We had a thoroughly enjoyable 2 hours with them and exchanged details for possible contact in the future. Neil is one of the few English fellows who doesn't support Man U ( he follows Everton ) so he can't be all that bad.
To finish off a super day it's back to the same restaurant where we had dined the previous day, Spiriti e Forme, and the very fine meal served certainly justified our decision to make a return visit.
A real bonus before we go back to the hotel. I had noticed on a board in Piazza Navona that Jose Carreras was due to give a free concert on the Spanish Steps that evening in honour of Pavarotti and so it was that for about 45 minutes we were treated to a performance from one of the tenor greats, in a magical location. Although brought to a premature end by heavy rain it was an evening to remember.
Can't let a day go by without a 'Gail' moment.
I was discussing with G what the other members of the Berwick group would be doing by now and when we got to Chris and Ernie Gail stated with confidence ( she always does ) that they would be taking Emma to Pisa before going on to Bologna. I questioned why they would be returning to Bologna after Pisa and Gail, getting quite feisty, said that they happened to love that area. It still escaping me why they would travel so far east again after Tuscany, Gail, by now exasperated with yours truly, explained it was because they love Beaune and that area.
G was in fact confusing Bologna with Burgundy, an understandable mistake as they both begin with B and are both in Europe!
The Obese Ferret
First port of call is The Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps, shopping of the window and real variety and then continue to the architectural wonder, the Pantheon and thence to our favourite square in Rome, the Piazza Navona. Quick visit to Castel Sant'Angelo and St Peter's ( both from the outside only ) and then it's back to P. Navona for a long-overdue drink at one of the many bars. While here we meet up with a very friendly couple, Neil, originally from Liverpool but now living in Dussledorf and his partner, Marta, born in Poland but now settled in Frankfurt.
We had a thoroughly enjoyable 2 hours with them and exchanged details for possible contact in the future. Neil is one of the few English fellows who doesn't support Man U ( he follows Everton ) so he can't be all that bad.
To finish off a super day it's back to the same restaurant where we had dined the previous day, Spiriti e Forme, and the very fine meal served certainly justified our decision to make a return visit.
A real bonus before we go back to the hotel. I had noticed on a board in Piazza Navona that Jose Carreras was due to give a free concert on the Spanish Steps that evening in honour of Pavarotti and so it was that for about 45 minutes we were treated to a performance from one of the tenor greats, in a magical location. Although brought to a premature end by heavy rain it was an evening to remember.
Can't let a day go by without a 'Gail' moment.
I was discussing with G what the other members of the Berwick group would be doing by now and when we got to Chris and Ernie Gail stated with confidence ( she always does ) that they would be taking Emma to Pisa before going on to Bologna. I questioned why they would be returning to Bologna after Pisa and Gail, getting quite feisty, said that they happened to love that area. It still escaping me why they would travel so far east again after Tuscany, Gail, by now exasperated with yours truly, explained it was because they love Beaune and that area.
G was in fact confusing Bologna with Burgundy, an understandable mistake as they both begin with B and are both in Europe!
The Obese Ferret
Friday 3rd June 2011 Anversa to Rome.
Say our goodbyes to Samantha in the office of La Porta ( we had already said cheerio to Marcello and Nunzio Marcelli, the owner the evening before ) and head off down the valley to the largest town in the area, Sulmona. Surrounded by some very high peaks, Sulmona's main claim to fame is as the birthplace of the classical poet, Ovid. It also proves to be one of the more impressive provincial towns we have seen in Abruzzo, with a great atmosphere, a magnificent main square and for once an official at the tourist office who went out of his way to provide us with detailed information, not only on Sulmona, but also on Abruzzo in general. Such assistance had been noticeably absent from all other tourist offices in Italy. Last port of call in Sulmona is the world famous Confetti Pelino factory which was founded in 1783. Sulmona is now the centre of the almond confetti business,as evidenced by the huge number of confetti retailers throughout the city.
After a couple of hours in this delightful city we head off on the trip west to the Eternal City.
The drive proves to be uneventful although the weather takes a real turn for the worse during the afternoon.
Gail and I had decided to keep our rental car until the Sunday when we were due to fly out to Frankfurt and then on to Singapore. We had told ourselves that we could park the car near to our hotel and this would give us more flexibility should we wish to travel to sights outside of Rome. Tom Tom would have it all under control and it would all be very straightforward.
All went well until we arrived at the Colloseum and found that the police had sealed off the area leading to where our hotel was located. This was not on our agenda and poor old Tom had certainly not factored it into his calculations. After more than an hour of going round in circles and seeing some of Rome's greatest monuments at least 3 times we admitted defeat, offloaded the car at the airport, and took a cab into the White Hotel near the Trevi Fountain. To our surprise we discovered that we had been within 50 metres of the hotel at least a couple of times during our Tom Tom confusion period. What happened to a good old map rather than relying on Tom whose performance had dipped markedly after we changed the voice from Australian to an Irish accent!
Hotel in great location and very friendly staff. Walk down to the Trevi Fountain and were staggered by the unbelievable number of tourists. We had never seen Rome this busy before and decided to find refuge in a lovely nearby restaurant serving quality food in a relatively quiet side-street.
Early night after planning our walking tour of Rome the next day.
The Obese Ferret.
After a couple of hours in this delightful city we head off on the trip west to the Eternal City.
The drive proves to be uneventful although the weather takes a real turn for the worse during the afternoon.
Gail and I had decided to keep our rental car until the Sunday when we were due to fly out to Frankfurt and then on to Singapore. We had told ourselves that we could park the car near to our hotel and this would give us more flexibility should we wish to travel to sights outside of Rome. Tom Tom would have it all under control and it would all be very straightforward.
All went well until we arrived at the Colloseum and found that the police had sealed off the area leading to where our hotel was located. This was not on our agenda and poor old Tom had certainly not factored it into his calculations. After more than an hour of going round in circles and seeing some of Rome's greatest monuments at least 3 times we admitted defeat, offloaded the car at the airport, and took a cab into the White Hotel near the Trevi Fountain. To our surprise we discovered that we had been within 50 metres of the hotel at least a couple of times during our Tom Tom confusion period. What happened to a good old map rather than relying on Tom whose performance had dipped markedly after we changed the voice from Australian to an Irish accent!
Hotel in great location and very friendly staff. Walk down to the Trevi Fountain and were staggered by the unbelievable number of tourists. We had never seen Rome this busy before and decided to find refuge in a lovely nearby restaurant serving quality food in a relatively quiet side-street.
Early night after planning our walking tour of Rome the next day.
The Obese Ferret.
Friday, June 3, 2011
Thursday 2nd June 2011 La Porta dei Parchi
Leave part of the wooden shutters to our room open so we wake up a lot earlier than has been the case for some time. Fairly leaden skies to start with but the forecast is for variable weather for most of the day.
Breakfast very basic but quality locally baked bread, home-made jam and ricotta cheese are ideal after considerable gluttony at last agriturismo in Peschici.
Spend some time booking a hotel near the Trevi Fountain for our last 2 nights in Rome and then walk down to the nearby village of Asverna. This turns out to be a real surprise and larger than expected. After the obligatory coffee in the square we saunter round the historic centre of this beautifully kept village.
Shortly after our arrival on the previous day we had observed a small town sitting precariously atop a high ridge behind Asverna and assumed that this was the much-vaunted town of Scanno at an altitude of 1080 metres. We, therefore, set off in the car along yet another breathtaking mountain road with yours truly psyching himself up to tackle the switchbacks. Soon find out that this town is in fact called Castrovalva and Scanno is in fact some 15 kms to the south through the awesome Gola del Sagittario, a very deep gorge through which the Sagittario river runs. The river has been damned to form the Lago di Scanno further up the gorge and the road hugs the cliff face in another of the engineering feats which have become all too familiar to us in Italy.
Some kms up the gorge we see in the distance a beautiful hilltop town which we assume again is Scanno. Wrong again! This is Villalago and its unbelievable position high above the gorge surpasses anything we have seen before. We take a quick detour into this wonderful small town and we are rewarded with a torrential downpour which in no way diminishes our enthusiasm for this unheralded gem of a town.
Now the news you have all been waiting for- yes we do arrive at Scanno which has become a real tourist centre in recent years. Put on the map by the Photographer Cartier-Bresson during WW Two who was fascinated by the traditional dresses of the local ladies Scanno is now expanding at a rapid rate, with many Alpine-style hotels and apartments springing up. Sadly, the dresses seem to have become more of a feature in a bi-annual festival although one can still see some of the more elderly ladies in the traditional garb going about their daily business.
Another exhilarating drive takes us back to the Agri and we resist the temptation ( not very strong on my part ) to tackle the very daunting drive up to Castrovalva. Decide to visit the nearby town of Cocullo whose main claim to fame is its May Processione dei Serpari which involves some intrepid characters adorning the statue of San Domenico with jewels, banknotes and live snakes. The procession has pagan origins so not sure as to when or why poor old San Dom was roped into the bizarre ritual. Marcello at the Agri had suggested that we spend some time at the museum in town which is mainly devoted to this annual event. Unfortunately, like much of Italy during this twilight period before the true season starts, it was closed. Maybe it will be open again the next day in time for it to close again for its lengthy siesta!
For once a lightish meal at the agri restaurant ( only 3 courses ! ) and in bed by 10.00 pm.
Gail moment of the day- During a walk near the River Sagittario we come across some people having a picnic lunch. Gail remarks that “ perhaps we could have a picnic here too, if only we had brought something to eat with us!”. Travel with NGI is never boring.
More tomorrow when we arrive in The Eternal City.
The Obese Ferret.
Breakfast very basic but quality locally baked bread, home-made jam and ricotta cheese are ideal after considerable gluttony at last agriturismo in Peschici.
Spend some time booking a hotel near the Trevi Fountain for our last 2 nights in Rome and then walk down to the nearby village of Asverna. This turns out to be a real surprise and larger than expected. After the obligatory coffee in the square we saunter round the historic centre of this beautifully kept village.
Shortly after our arrival on the previous day we had observed a small town sitting precariously atop a high ridge behind Asverna and assumed that this was the much-vaunted town of Scanno at an altitude of 1080 metres. We, therefore, set off in the car along yet another breathtaking mountain road with yours truly psyching himself up to tackle the switchbacks. Soon find out that this town is in fact called Castrovalva and Scanno is in fact some 15 kms to the south through the awesome Gola del Sagittario, a very deep gorge through which the Sagittario river runs. The river has been damned to form the Lago di Scanno further up the gorge and the road hugs the cliff face in another of the engineering feats which have become all too familiar to us in Italy.
Some kms up the gorge we see in the distance a beautiful hilltop town which we assume again is Scanno. Wrong again! This is Villalago and its unbelievable position high above the gorge surpasses anything we have seen before. We take a quick detour into this wonderful small town and we are rewarded with a torrential downpour which in no way diminishes our enthusiasm for this unheralded gem of a town.
Now the news you have all been waiting for- yes we do arrive at Scanno which has become a real tourist centre in recent years. Put on the map by the Photographer Cartier-Bresson during WW Two who was fascinated by the traditional dresses of the local ladies Scanno is now expanding at a rapid rate, with many Alpine-style hotels and apartments springing up. Sadly, the dresses seem to have become more of a feature in a bi-annual festival although one can still see some of the more elderly ladies in the traditional garb going about their daily business.
Another exhilarating drive takes us back to the Agri and we resist the temptation ( not very strong on my part ) to tackle the very daunting drive up to Castrovalva. Decide to visit the nearby town of Cocullo whose main claim to fame is its May Processione dei Serpari which involves some intrepid characters adorning the statue of San Domenico with jewels, banknotes and live snakes. The procession has pagan origins so not sure as to when or why poor old San Dom was roped into the bizarre ritual. Marcello at the Agri had suggested that we spend some time at the museum in town which is mainly devoted to this annual event. Unfortunately, like much of Italy during this twilight period before the true season starts, it was closed. Maybe it will be open again the next day in time for it to close again for its lengthy siesta!
For once a lightish meal at the agri restaurant ( only 3 courses ! ) and in bed by 10.00 pm.
Gail moment of the day- During a walk near the River Sagittario we come across some people having a picnic lunch. Gail remarks that “ perhaps we could have a picnic here too, if only we had brought something to eat with us!”. Travel with NGI is never boring.
More tomorrow when we arrive in The Eternal City.
The Obese Ferret.
1st June 2011 Peschici to Cocullo
As arranged the night before we have a chat with the two Kiwis, Martin and Lisa, after breakfast and try to give them some travel tips on the area. Next 90 minutes spent catching up on blogs but we leave La Chiusa at noon after a great stay at this high quality establishment. Say goodbye to Francesco, the owner, who often reminds us of Manuel from Fawlty Towers with his high octane activity, and his wife who kindly sends us off with a packed lunch of pizza slices and cherries.
Leaving Peschici we decide to take a minor road, staying as close as possible to the seafront. Reasonable chain of beaches but the whole area looks somewhat neglected. Maybe the arrival of the season proper will transform the various waterfront communities but we are not overly optimistic.
As we travel northeast towards Termoli the heavens open and this torrential rain continues until after we turn west at Pescara in the direction of the Abruzzo National Park. As we approach Sulmona, birthplace of the classical poet Ovid, the scenery becomes increasingly mountainous and the main Pescara to Rome road becomes an elevated freeway clinging to the edge of the mountain slope.
We arrive at our Agriturismo, La Porta dei Parchi, at about 4.00 pm and move into our basic but comfortable apartment. This is very much your back-to-basics agriturismo set against a backdrop of very rugged mountains and with a clear view to the hilltop town of Scanno at 1050 metres- a destination for the next day.
Basic but tasty dinner at the agriturismo restaurant, after which we are off to bed at 10.00, tired after a long and fairly demanding drive in foul weather for much of the journey.
The Obese Ferret
Leaving Peschici we decide to take a minor road, staying as close as possible to the seafront. Reasonable chain of beaches but the whole area looks somewhat neglected. Maybe the arrival of the season proper will transform the various waterfront communities but we are not overly optimistic.
As we travel northeast towards Termoli the heavens open and this torrential rain continues until after we turn west at Pescara in the direction of the Abruzzo National Park. As we approach Sulmona, birthplace of the classical poet Ovid, the scenery becomes increasingly mountainous and the main Pescara to Rome road becomes an elevated freeway clinging to the edge of the mountain slope.
We arrive at our Agriturismo, La Porta dei Parchi, at about 4.00 pm and move into our basic but comfortable apartment. This is very much your back-to-basics agriturismo set against a backdrop of very rugged mountains and with a clear view to the hilltop town of Scanno at 1050 metres- a destination for the next day.
Basic but tasty dinner at the agriturismo restaurant, after which we are off to bed at 10.00, tired after a long and fairly demanding drive in foul weather for much of the journey.
The Obese Ferret
31st May 2011 Vieste
Another sunny day so it’s off to the main tourist town of Gargano,Vieste, this time by the more major route 89.
Vieste shows all the signs of being another town not quite ready for the usual tourist onslaught and we struggle to find a cafe offering snacks and coffee. We steer clear of heavier lunches as we know the type of meals provided in the evening at La Chiusa.
Vieste, again with ‘Greek’ white buildings and quaint narrow streets, is at its best in the glorious sunshine and from the vantage point of the castle we are able to look down on many thousands more beach umbrellas and tables. The size of the carparks behind the beach gives an indication of the hordes who obviously invade the town during the summer.
One memorable monument in Vieste is the Pietra Amara ( Bitter Stone ) where 7000 local citizens were beheaded by the Turkish army. Leaving town with that sobering thought in mind we head south along the coast to superb bays such as La Testa di Gargano and Pugnochiuso ( closed fist ). Unfortunately, as with most bays along this coastline they have been taken over by large hotel groups and are no longer accessible to mere mortals such as ourselves. We did, however, find a small pebbly beach at Cala di Pergola which had escaped the notice of the corporate world and was far from the madding crowd.
Dinner back at La Chiusa where we meet up with New Zealand couple who ask if they can pick our brains on the area at breakfast next morning. Delighted to oblige as these are first people we have met for some time who recognize that we have any brains.
Gailism of the day- while driving along late in the day Gail says “ May I turn off the air-conditioning, Oh,I just have!” That’s what I call a consensus-style decision-making!
The Obese Ferret
Vieste shows all the signs of being another town not quite ready for the usual tourist onslaught and we struggle to find a cafe offering snacks and coffee. We steer clear of heavier lunches as we know the type of meals provided in the evening at La Chiusa.
Vieste, again with ‘Greek’ white buildings and quaint narrow streets, is at its best in the glorious sunshine and from the vantage point of the castle we are able to look down on many thousands more beach umbrellas and tables. The size of the carparks behind the beach gives an indication of the hordes who obviously invade the town during the summer.
One memorable monument in Vieste is the Pietra Amara ( Bitter Stone ) where 7000 local citizens were beheaded by the Turkish army. Leaving town with that sobering thought in mind we head south along the coast to superb bays such as La Testa di Gargano and Pugnochiuso ( closed fist ). Unfortunately, as with most bays along this coastline they have been taken over by large hotel groups and are no longer accessible to mere mortals such as ourselves. We did, however, find a small pebbly beach at Cala di Pergola which had escaped the notice of the corporate world and was far from the madding crowd.
Dinner back at La Chiusa where we meet up with New Zealand couple who ask if they can pick our brains on the area at breakfast next morning. Delighted to oblige as these are first people we have met for some time who recognize that we have any brains.
Gailism of the day- while driving along late in the day Gail says “ May I turn off the air-conditioning, Oh,I just have!” That’s what I call a consensus-style decision-making!
The Obese Ferret
Monday 30th May 2011-Agriturismo La Chiusa delle More
Superb breakfast on a beautiful sunny day. Set off to walk along Peschici beach to the small port area and then climb steps up to the delightful historic town centre. As always the beach is covered with the ubiquitous beach umbrellas and tables but by Italian standards it is one of the better beaches. The town itself, with its white buildings, is more reminiscent of those on the Greek islands and we still have the feeling that most small business people are still in preparation mode before the true season starts in mid-June.
Stop at cafe for gelati and coffee and meet up with Bernd and Leanne who had followed the same route as ourselves up to Peschici after the previous day nearly killing themselves by taking the longer walk along the road into the hilltop town. The son of the owner of the cafe, proudly brings out some free samples of his mamma’s biscotti for us to try and later presents said mamma to the public assembled in the outside eating area. Maybe he is one of the ‘Mammoni’ ( mummy’s boys who stay at home well after they have left their teenage years behind or even constantly return home after they are married ). This trend is apparently on the increase in Italy.
Decide to take an afternoon drive through the Forestra Umbra( Shady Forest) and then proceed to Monte Sant’Angelo where St Michael the Archangel is supposed, in AD490,to have appeared before the Bishop of Siponto. The Sanctuario di San Michele, set in a mountain town which overlooks the south coast of the Gargano is now a tourist magnet for many. Whilst it is something a mini Lourdes there is no disputing the splendour of the church carved out in a huge grotto.
The tomb of the other target of religious devotion, Padre Pio, the world’s most marketed monk as per the Lonely Planet, is to be found at San Giovanni Rotondo, some 20 kms to the east of Monte Sant’Angelo. We decided that one pilgrimage was enough and had to satisfy ourselves with seeing ‘Pizza al Taglio Padre Pio’ ( Padre Pio Pizza by the slice ). Who said Italians don’t have a sense of style and history!
The drive back down to the coast from Monte Sant’Angelo is breathtaking and the subsequent drive along the coast back to Peschici ( not all of it intentional as we fell prey at one point to Italy’s idiosyncratic road signs.) takes us along some spectacular coastal scenery.
After consecutive days driving on such windy roads my artificial is feeling and looking a bit the worse for wear but another lovely meal back at La Chiusa in the company of Bernd and Leanne soon puts matters right.
The Obese Ferret
Stop at cafe for gelati and coffee and meet up with Bernd and Leanne who had followed the same route as ourselves up to Peschici after the previous day nearly killing themselves by taking the longer walk along the road into the hilltop town. The son of the owner of the cafe, proudly brings out some free samples of his mamma’s biscotti for us to try and later presents said mamma to the public assembled in the outside eating area. Maybe he is one of the ‘Mammoni’ ( mummy’s boys who stay at home well after they have left their teenage years behind or even constantly return home after they are married ). This trend is apparently on the increase in Italy.
Decide to take an afternoon drive through the Forestra Umbra( Shady Forest) and then proceed to Monte Sant’Angelo where St Michael the Archangel is supposed, in AD490,to have appeared before the Bishop of Siponto. The Sanctuario di San Michele, set in a mountain town which overlooks the south coast of the Gargano is now a tourist magnet for many. Whilst it is something a mini Lourdes there is no disputing the splendour of the church carved out in a huge grotto.
The tomb of the other target of religious devotion, Padre Pio, the world’s most marketed monk as per the Lonely Planet, is to be found at San Giovanni Rotondo, some 20 kms to the east of Monte Sant’Angelo. We decided that one pilgrimage was enough and had to satisfy ourselves with seeing ‘Pizza al Taglio Padre Pio’ ( Padre Pio Pizza by the slice ). Who said Italians don’t have a sense of style and history!
The drive back down to the coast from Monte Sant’Angelo is breathtaking and the subsequent drive along the coast back to Peschici ( not all of it intentional as we fell prey at one point to Italy’s idiosyncratic road signs.) takes us along some spectacular coastal scenery.
After consecutive days driving on such windy roads my artificial is feeling and looking a bit the worse for wear but another lovely meal back at La Chiusa in the company of Bernd and Leanne soon puts matters right.
The Obese Ferret
Wednesday, June 1, 2011
Sunday 29th May 2011 Montecassino to Peschini
Ordinary breakfast then head northeast towards the Adriatic.
Scenery fairly grand but not on a par with other areas that we have seen in Italy. Arrival at the Adriatic is very disappointing and the port town of Termoli is seemingly closed for the day. However, we do manage to find a bar near the train station for a panino and drink.
The coastal strip from Termoli to Peschici is flat, boring and not a very good advertisement for the Adriatic.
Things take a real turn for the better as we approach the Promontorio di Gargano and we start to appreciate why this part of the world is regarded as one of Italy's finest areas.
Arrive at Agriturismo La Chiusa dell More ( The Enclosure of the Blackberries ) which is situated a short distance from the beach and turns out to be by far the most up-market agri we have stayed at during our trip. A property set amongst olive groves, superb rooms, a very genial host Francesco and as we later find out the most fantastic cuisine.
After long day decide to book dinner at the agri and the 4 course meal, cooked by Francesco's wife is an absolute delight. Meet up with a German couple, Bernd and Leanne from Berlin spend an enjoyable and entertaining 2 hours before heading off to be somewhat bloated but content.
The Obese Ferret
Scenery fairly grand but not on a par with other areas that we have seen in Italy. Arrival at the Adriatic is very disappointing and the port town of Termoli is seemingly closed for the day. However, we do manage to find a bar near the train station for a panino and drink.
The coastal strip from Termoli to Peschici is flat, boring and not a very good advertisement for the Adriatic.
Things take a real turn for the better as we approach the Promontorio di Gargano and we start to appreciate why this part of the world is regarded as one of Italy's finest areas.
Arrive at Agriturismo La Chiusa dell More ( The Enclosure of the Blackberries ) which is situated a short distance from the beach and turns out to be by far the most up-market agri we have stayed at during our trip. A property set amongst olive groves, superb rooms, a very genial host Francesco and as we later find out the most fantastic cuisine.
After long day decide to book dinner at the agri and the 4 course meal, cooked by Francesco's wife is an absolute delight. Meet up with a German couple, Bernd and Leanne from Berlin spend an enjoyable and entertaining 2 hours before heading off to be somewhat bloated but content.
The Obese Ferret
Saturday 28th May Barberino to Cassino
Up early to see Mike and Gay Fuller leave at 7.30 am exactly. ( Gay is very punctual and manages to get a semi-comatose Mike into the car on time )
After breakfast we say cheerio to Cath and Ian, George and Di and Mick,Frances and Bridie, all of whom are taking the bus to Florence before onward journeys to various parts of Italy.
One last walk up to the Sports Bar for a coffee with the Fuller family and then head off south towards Rome after what has been a great week catching up with friends at a wonderful location. We could not have asked for more from the week at Barberino in Chianti and hats off to Chris and Ernie for all of their hard work in ensuring a good time was had by all.
Take Autostrada south past Rome, stopping only once along the way for a power nap as we are both feeling fairly tired.
Arrive at Cassino and book into La Selva Agriturismo which is an authentic agriturismo , complete with a very old nonna, donkeys, sheep, a peacock and roosters. Somewhat alarmed when we see a banner with 'Tanti Auguri Giuseppe' on it and tables being set out for a festa. We are starting to envisage a sleepless night with festivities going on till the early hours of the morning. However, sitting in the adjacent restaurant, we discover that Giuseppe is in fact celebrating his first birthday and by 8.00 pm all the guests are leaving!
Watch the Europeans League Final with Barcelona winning 3-1 over Man U and providing further evidence that they are the best club side in the world at present. Even well-known Man U fans, Alex Ferguson and Ian Smith acknowledge their superiority on the night.
La Selva is hardly a luxury establishment but it is in a spectacular setting under the mountain on which is perched the remarkable Abbazzia di Montecassino. This can be reached by driving up a switchback road but I have by now reverted to a vertigo wimp so decide to give this a miss.
In bed fairly early to the sound of the donkeys neighing in the pen outside our rather modest little cabin.
The Obese Ferret
After breakfast we say cheerio to Cath and Ian, George and Di and Mick,Frances and Bridie, all of whom are taking the bus to Florence before onward journeys to various parts of Italy.
One last walk up to the Sports Bar for a coffee with the Fuller family and then head off south towards Rome after what has been a great week catching up with friends at a wonderful location. We could not have asked for more from the week at Barberino in Chianti and hats off to Chris and Ernie for all of their hard work in ensuring a good time was had by all.
Take Autostrada south past Rome, stopping only once along the way for a power nap as we are both feeling fairly tired.
Arrive at Cassino and book into La Selva Agriturismo which is an authentic agriturismo , complete with a very old nonna, donkeys, sheep, a peacock and roosters. Somewhat alarmed when we see a banner with 'Tanti Auguri Giuseppe' on it and tables being set out for a festa. We are starting to envisage a sleepless night with festivities going on till the early hours of the morning. However, sitting in the adjacent restaurant, we discover that Giuseppe is in fact celebrating his first birthday and by 8.00 pm all the guests are leaving!
Watch the Europeans League Final with Barcelona winning 3-1 over Man U and providing further evidence that they are the best club side in the world at present. Even well-known Man U fans, Alex Ferguson and Ian Smith acknowledge their superiority on the night.
La Selva is hardly a luxury establishment but it is in a spectacular setting under the mountain on which is perched the remarkable Abbazzia di Montecassino. This can be reached by driving up a switchback road but I have by now reverted to a vertigo wimp so decide to give this a miss.
In bed fairly early to the sound of the donkeys neighing in the pen outside our rather modest little cabin.
The Obese Ferret
Friday 27th May 2011 Barberino
Craig's 35th birthday! Makes us both feel old.
Usual coffee at Sports Bar and then back to house for lunch, accompanied by too much alcohol.
Weather starts to cool down and the wind gets up a little, casting some doubt on our decision for the whole group to eat outdoors at a restaurant in Barberino. I walk up to town to discuss the situation with the owner who I had hoped might have some local knowledge on the weather patterns. Sadly he appeared to have had a customer service by-pass operation and offers no guidance whatsoever. He simply says " it's your decision" to which I was tempted to respond by saying " yes it is and we have decided to eat somewhere else!". Eventually decide to stick to our original plan to dine on terrace overlooking valley.
Return to house to phone Craig with birthday greetings but he is a bit tied up at some function ( maybe a pub). Craig phones back later but is seemingly by now too inebriated to have a long discussion with the oldies but it is good to catch up with the young man on his 35th.
Set off up to the town for dinner ,with some trepidation after the performance of mine host earlier in the day. In the event, a very enjoyable meal was had by all the proprietor is on his very best behaviour. It's amazing what the prospect of a very healthy financial return will do to one's humour. Andrew and David Fuller share a huge T-bone which is apparently beautifully cooked.
Back at the house most guests are off to bed early as they all leave at the crack of dawn next morning. However, a few hardy souls share some Limoncino which we had bought in Montefalco a week earlier.
Pack our bags and get to bed, ready for departure next morning.
The Obese Ferret
Usual coffee at Sports Bar and then back to house for lunch, accompanied by too much alcohol.
Weather starts to cool down and the wind gets up a little, casting some doubt on our decision for the whole group to eat outdoors at a restaurant in Barberino. I walk up to town to discuss the situation with the owner who I had hoped might have some local knowledge on the weather patterns. Sadly he appeared to have had a customer service by-pass operation and offers no guidance whatsoever. He simply says " it's your decision" to which I was tempted to respond by saying " yes it is and we have decided to eat somewhere else!". Eventually decide to stick to our original plan to dine on terrace overlooking valley.
Return to house to phone Craig with birthday greetings but he is a bit tied up at some function ( maybe a pub). Craig phones back later but is seemingly by now too inebriated to have a long discussion with the oldies but it is good to catch up with the young man on his 35th.
Set off up to the town for dinner ,with some trepidation after the performance of mine host earlier in the day. In the event, a very enjoyable meal was had by all the proprietor is on his very best behaviour. It's amazing what the prospect of a very healthy financial return will do to one's humour. Andrew and David Fuller share a huge T-bone which is apparently beautifully cooked.
Back at the house most guests are off to bed early as they all leave at the crack of dawn next morning. However, a few hardy souls share some Limoncino which we had bought in Montefalco a week earlier.
Pack our bags and get to bed, ready for departure next morning.
The Obese Ferret
Friday, May 27, 2011
Thursday 26th May 2011 Podere Barberino
More sun!
Coffee in town at our now favourite sports bar but apart from that a quiet day at the pool and around the villa eagerly anticipating the dinner being cooked for us by outside caterers in the evening.
Everyone makes an effort to to look almost presentable for the dinner with the ladies in particular in their finery. As his her wont Gail wants to take a photo of the whole group on auto delay and in my haste to assist with a surface on which to place the camera I lift up a small marble table to place it on the lawn only to find that I have lifted only the top- result one broken marble table top and a 66 year old guy's pride badly dented. The good news was that my artificial knee suffered no damage and most of the group thought that it was part of a well-planned ,if pathetic, comedy routine.
A superb dinner was had by all with the usual amount of imbibing taking place but for once the numbers dwindled surprisingly quickly and all were in bed at a more respectable time than had hitherto been the case. Either we are running out of steam or we are all starting to act our age.
Doug and Brenda say cheerio to everyone as they leave at 4.00 am the next day for St Petersburg and nobody seems interested in getting up to see them off.
The Obese Ferret
Coffee in town at our now favourite sports bar but apart from that a quiet day at the pool and around the villa eagerly anticipating the dinner being cooked for us by outside caterers in the evening.
Everyone makes an effort to to look almost presentable for the dinner with the ladies in particular in their finery. As his her wont Gail wants to take a photo of the whole group on auto delay and in my haste to assist with a surface on which to place the camera I lift up a small marble table to place it on the lawn only to find that I have lifted only the top- result one broken marble table top and a 66 year old guy's pride badly dented. The good news was that my artificial knee suffered no damage and most of the group thought that it was part of a well-planned ,if pathetic, comedy routine.
A superb dinner was had by all with the usual amount of imbibing taking place but for once the numbers dwindled surprisingly quickly and all were in bed at a more respectable time than had hitherto been the case. Either we are running out of steam or we are all starting to act our age.
Doug and Brenda say cheerio to everyone as they leave at 4.00 am the next day for St Petersburg and nobody seems interested in getting up to see them off.
The Obese Ferret
Wednesday 25th May 2011 Podere Barberino
Still the glorious weather continues.
As it is the turn of the Smiths /Irelands to cook dinner we have a quiet morning although it does include the obligatory coffee in Barberino town centre and a quick side trip to visit the local church to view yet another
Mummified saint. Unfortunately, in this case the mummy looks more like a piece of charcoal in the shape of a human and he doesn't look at all well!
Afternoon sees us off to the Pam supermarket in Poggiponsi to stock up on provisions for the evening meal. The duties are split with Ian doing the sausages, Gail the pasta , Cath the desserts and me bringing up the rear to perform the work which requires no culinary expertise, namely scraping 64 potatoes for mashing. Cath actually cuts the scraped spuds in half so that I can't claim all the credit for their preparation.
In the event, the meal is to everyone's satisfaction with the bangers and mash being welcomed after many weeks of pasta for most of the diners.
Off to bed with yours truly dreaming of a career in cooking after my stunning success in scraping the potatoes.
The Obese Ferret.
As it is the turn of the Smiths /Irelands to cook dinner we have a quiet morning although it does include the obligatory coffee in Barberino town centre and a quick side trip to visit the local church to view yet another
Mummified saint. Unfortunately, in this case the mummy looks more like a piece of charcoal in the shape of a human and he doesn't look at all well!
Afternoon sees us off to the Pam supermarket in Poggiponsi to stock up on provisions for the evening meal. The duties are split with Ian doing the sausages, Gail the pasta , Cath the desserts and me bringing up the rear to perform the work which requires no culinary expertise, namely scraping 64 potatoes for mashing. Cath actually cuts the scraped spuds in half so that I can't claim all the credit for their preparation.
In the event, the meal is to everyone's satisfaction with the bangers and mash being welcomed after many weeks of pasta for most of the diners.
Off to bed with yours truly dreaming of a career in cooking after my stunning success in scraping the potatoes.
The Obese Ferret.
Tuesday 24th May 2011 San Gimigniano and Volterra
Usual sunny start to the day and decide to take it easy after the previous day's drive to Siena.
Walk up to the small nearby town of Barberino for coffee at the Sport bar which will become our regular coffee stop over the coming days. Very friendly, welcoming staff and it's always a good sign to see the the locals frequenting a cafe.
Next few hours spent enjoying the facilities of the Podere Barberino but by afternoon we decide to take a drive with Cath and Ian to the famous town of San Gimigniano, often referred to as the ' Medieval Manhattan', with its large number of medieval towers, the highest of which is the Torre Grossa ( climbed by Ian while the rest of us enjoy drinks in the Piazza della Cisterna below.
San Gim as always packed out with hordes of tourists but there is no denying its 'wow'factor. Although fairly late in the day we continue on round the loop to Volterra, an Etruscan hill-top fortified town which all too often is over-shadowed by its neighbour San Gim but deserves closer inspection than it sometimes receives, if only for its breathtaking position overlooking the surrounding Tuscan hills.
The drive to these twin towns provides us with a reminder, if such were required, of why Tuscany has become such a tourist magnet.
Back at the villa by 7.00 pm to enjoy another lovely meal with the Fuller team preparing the starters and desserts and great pizzas coming from a pizzeria in nearby Tavarnelle. The first pizzeria owner nearly had a heart attack when he was asked for pizzas for 20 people ( his max was 3 ) so it took some time to find one capable of feeding the group, memorably described on one occasion by Gail's brother , Chip as 'good on the fang!' when attending Gail's 60th at Berwick.
A very late night sitting up with George, Ernie and others discussing the relative merits of France and Italy. ( Gail had gone to bed earlier ). Only realised when the night air hit me that I had drunk far too much and was in the giggly, slightly amorous, pre-depression state by the time I reached our room.
Gail engrossed in her book while I somehow managed to lock myself out of the bathroom and toilet when the handle came off in my hand. Go to sleep safe in the knowledge that I have destroyed the bathroom door handle, guaranteed my wife a restless night as she stresses over what will happen if she wakes up and needs to go to the loo, and reminded her what a silly old fart looks like when he arrives back home the worse-for wear!
Il Furetto Obeso e Ubriaco!
Walk up to the small nearby town of Barberino for coffee at the Sport bar which will become our regular coffee stop over the coming days. Very friendly, welcoming staff and it's always a good sign to see the the locals frequenting a cafe.
Next few hours spent enjoying the facilities of the Podere Barberino but by afternoon we decide to take a drive with Cath and Ian to the famous town of San Gimigniano, often referred to as the ' Medieval Manhattan', with its large number of medieval towers, the highest of which is the Torre Grossa ( climbed by Ian while the rest of us enjoy drinks in the Piazza della Cisterna below.
San Gim as always packed out with hordes of tourists but there is no denying its 'wow'factor. Although fairly late in the day we continue on round the loop to Volterra, an Etruscan hill-top fortified town which all too often is over-shadowed by its neighbour San Gim but deserves closer inspection than it sometimes receives, if only for its breathtaking position overlooking the surrounding Tuscan hills.
The drive to these twin towns provides us with a reminder, if such were required, of why Tuscany has become such a tourist magnet.
Back at the villa by 7.00 pm to enjoy another lovely meal with the Fuller team preparing the starters and desserts and great pizzas coming from a pizzeria in nearby Tavarnelle. The first pizzeria owner nearly had a heart attack when he was asked for pizzas for 20 people ( his max was 3 ) so it took some time to find one capable of feeding the group, memorably described on one occasion by Gail's brother , Chip as 'good on the fang!' when attending Gail's 60th at Berwick.
A very late night sitting up with George, Ernie and others discussing the relative merits of France and Italy. ( Gail had gone to bed earlier ). Only realised when the night air hit me that I had drunk far too much and was in the giggly, slightly amorous, pre-depression state by the time I reached our room.
Gail engrossed in her book while I somehow managed to lock myself out of the bathroom and toilet when the handle came off in my hand. Go to sleep safe in the knowledge that I have destroyed the bathroom door handle, guaranteed my wife a restless night as she stresses over what will happen if she wakes up and needs to go to the loo, and reminded her what a silly old fart looks like when he arrives back home the worse-for wear!
Il Furetto Obeso e Ubriaco!
Monday 23rd May 2011 Siena
Another glorious day weather-wise.
Although Gail and I had been to Siena on a previous occasion Cath and Ian Smith had never seen this impressive city so we set off mid-morning for the shortish drive south.
Parking is always notoriously difficult and the problem was aggravated this time by a home football match for Siena who had just gained promotion to Seria A. We eventually find free parking below the walls of this fortified city and walk up the hill to the centre, stopping on the way to visit the Chiesa di San Domenico. Many people make the pilgrimage to this church as it contains the somewhat macabre mummified head and thumb of Santa Caterina, the patron saint of Rome, Italy and Europe.
The hypocrisy of the church never ceases to amaze me as all the women entering the building have to cover their shoulders only to be confronted by 3 nude statues in one of the chapels.
Next stop is the truly awesome Duomo with its superb facia, marble pillars and floor inlays and frescoes.
Finally, the piece de resistance, the Piazza del Campo, home of the twice-yearly Il Palio horse race. This square remains one the great sights and we are able to find a pizza bar in a side street with a glimpse of the Palazzo in the piazza. A lunch-time venue to remember.
More strolling around the laneways and streets of Siena, tucking into Gelati and arriving back at the car satisfied with our few hours in this great city.
Lovely evening meal of Lasagna prepared by Brenda Field and Di Wilson with help from Frances, Mick, George and Doug.
Consumption of probably more wine than was good for us but a fine time was had by all.
The Obese Ferret
Although Gail and I had been to Siena on a previous occasion Cath and Ian Smith had never seen this impressive city so we set off mid-morning for the shortish drive south.
Parking is always notoriously difficult and the problem was aggravated this time by a home football match for Siena who had just gained promotion to Seria A. We eventually find free parking below the walls of this fortified city and walk up the hill to the centre, stopping on the way to visit the Chiesa di San Domenico. Many people make the pilgrimage to this church as it contains the somewhat macabre mummified head and thumb of Santa Caterina, the patron saint of Rome, Italy and Europe.
The hypocrisy of the church never ceases to amaze me as all the women entering the building have to cover their shoulders only to be confronted by 3 nude statues in one of the chapels.
Next stop is the truly awesome Duomo with its superb facia, marble pillars and floor inlays and frescoes.
Finally, the piece de resistance, the Piazza del Campo, home of the twice-yearly Il Palio horse race. This square remains one the great sights and we are able to find a pizza bar in a side street with a glimpse of the Palazzo in the piazza. A lunch-time venue to remember.
More strolling around the laneways and streets of Siena, tucking into Gelati and arriving back at the car satisfied with our few hours in this great city.
Lovely evening meal of Lasagna prepared by Brenda Field and Di Wilson with help from Frances, Mick, George and Doug.
Consumption of probably more wine than was good for us but a fine time was had by all.
The Obese Ferret
Sunday 22nd May Barberino in Chianti
Still no water available so yours truly takes a fairly cold dip in the swimming pool to freshen up a little. Quite amusing, in a masochistic sort of way, seeing a constant stream of guests carrying buckets of water to flush down the toilets.
Eventually, someone arrives and replaces a valve in the system which had been damaged by the recent electrical storm. Hot showers all round puts everyone in better frame of mind.
The day used generally to settle in to this magnificent complex and a superb evening meal of a beef casserole is prepared mainly by Bronny Fuller with some assistant from others in her team- all part of the rotation system to be used for the week.
Sit up too late but get a reasonably good night's sleep.
The Obese Ferret.
Eventually, someone arrives and replaces a valve in the system which had been damaged by the recent electrical storm. Hot showers all round puts everyone in better frame of mind.
The day used generally to settle in to this magnificent complex and a superb evening meal of a beef casserole is prepared mainly by Bronny Fuller with some assistant from others in her team- all part of the rotation system to be used for the week.
Sit up too late but get a reasonably good night's sleep.
The Obese Ferret.
Monday, May 23, 2011
Saturday 21st May 2011 Montfalco to Barberino Val d'Elsa
Wake up to a bright sunny day and the sounds of a couple doing what comes naturally ( the walls to the rooms are very thin! ). We go to breakfast, one of the best we have had during the trip, to await the arrival of any couple looking very happy with themselves. The suspects eventually arrive but we decide not to ask them if they had enjoyed their early morning exercise.
Set off up a fairly steep slope to the town centre of Montefalco, which we had visited some years earlier.
The main square remains a stereotypical Italian piazza with the locals enjoying the sunshine but the high level of predominantly British tourists reminds us that we have swopped the quieter Umbria for the far busier Toscana.
Return to the Agriturismo to spend some time by the pool and have a quick lunch. However, ever-darkening clouds persuade us to make a move earlier than we had planned and we are soon on our way north through Foligno, Perugia and along the shores of Lake Trasimeno. Tom Tom who has been so reliable to date becomes totally confused as we leave Montefalco but our faith in him is soon restored as he finally gets back on the freeway in the right direction.
We had dismissed Lake Trasimeno as rather boring on previous trips but on this occasion take a detour to Passignano on the shores of the lake. Pleasantly surprised to find an attractive lakeside town with some fine cafes, gelaterias and park areas.
Travel on the major road past Siena and Poggiponsi to arrive at the location of the property which will be our home for the next week. After a few false starts we finally manage to get through the security gates into the magnificent Podere Barberino in Chianti.
Over the next few hours we meet up with all of our friends from Melbourne and make ourselves at home. Learn the good news that Andrew Fuller proposed to Bec Lindsay in Paris and that they are now engaged.
Dinner is at a Pizzeria at walking distance to the town and we all enjoy a very good meal, despite the fact that the chef burns his hands on a saucepan, which prevents him from preparing a special pizza for Bridie.
The poor man is in some distress so with my mediocre Italian and Bec's experience as a paramedic we are able to give him some advice as to how he might alleviate the pain.
Off to bed but not before we discover that there is no water at all in any of the houses. Have to wait until the next day to address the issue.
The Obese Ferret.
Set off up a fairly steep slope to the town centre of Montefalco, which we had visited some years earlier.
The main square remains a stereotypical Italian piazza with the locals enjoying the sunshine but the high level of predominantly British tourists reminds us that we have swopped the quieter Umbria for the far busier Toscana.
Return to the Agriturismo to spend some time by the pool and have a quick lunch. However, ever-darkening clouds persuade us to make a move earlier than we had planned and we are soon on our way north through Foligno, Perugia and along the shores of Lake Trasimeno. Tom Tom who has been so reliable to date becomes totally confused as we leave Montefalco but our faith in him is soon restored as he finally gets back on the freeway in the right direction.
We had dismissed Lake Trasimeno as rather boring on previous trips but on this occasion take a detour to Passignano on the shores of the lake. Pleasantly surprised to find an attractive lakeside town with some fine cafes, gelaterias and park areas.
Travel on the major road past Siena and Poggiponsi to arrive at the location of the property which will be our home for the next week. After a few false starts we finally manage to get through the security gates into the magnificent Podere Barberino in Chianti.
Over the next few hours we meet up with all of our friends from Melbourne and make ourselves at home. Learn the good news that Andrew Fuller proposed to Bec Lindsay in Paris and that they are now engaged.
Dinner is at a Pizzeria at walking distance to the town and we all enjoy a very good meal, despite the fact that the chef burns his hands on a saucepan, which prevents him from preparing a special pizza for Bridie.
The poor man is in some distress so with my mediocre Italian and Bec's experience as a paramedic we are able to give him some advice as to how he might alleviate the pain.
Off to bed but not before we discover that there is no water at all in any of the houses. Have to wait until the next day to address the issue.
The Obese Ferret.
Saturday, May 21, 2011
Friday 2th May 2011 Ascoli Piceno to Montefalco
After the rather overcast conditions of the previous day it was great to wake up to sunny skies and higher temperatures.
Pay our bill, thank our kind hosts, Sonia and Alessio, for the previous day's gifts of sparkling wine, torta and antipasto, and then take some time out to relax by the pool before our journey north-west to Toscana.
Do not leave until close to 1.00 and take motorway in to Ascoli Piceno, road then takes us through numerous gorges to Arquata Del Tronto. We had already decided to take the more daunting road across the Sibillini mountains to Visso rather than the easier route to Norcia so shortly after leaving ADT we turn north towards Castelluccio.
By this stage the weather had taken a real turn for the worse and by Castelluccio the temperature had dropped from 26 to 9.5 degrees. To say that the road over the mountains was spectacular would be an understatement and yours truly stayed VERY focussed on the road, leaving Gail to point out the various views. Shortly before Castelluccio we arrived at the amazing Piano Grande, a high altitude plain at 1500 metres, which attracts a surprisingly high number of tourists to its horse-riding ranch. Not at all what one would expect in Italy and Le Marche continues to surprise us.
After the Passo del Gualdo at 1596 metres we take the long descent along the River Nera to the town of Visso, passing on the way Castelsantangelo with the most amazing fortress located on a hill above the town.
We then entered the area called the Valnerina, on the Umbrian side of the Monti Sibillini. This beautiful, lush valley presents such a sharp contrast to the harsh mountain regions to the east.
Finally, down on the plains we head for the Festival town of Spoleto and eventually we arrive at Agriturismo Casiano Piccolo under the walls of Montefalco, the so-called Balcone dell'Umbria.
Lovely meal at restaurant and early to bed after very taxing drive.
Le Marche has far exceeded our expectations, with some remarkable, wild scenery,friendly people and lack of tourists. It's now off to the more tourist-laden Toscana for a week of revelry with the Fullers and the BADWACAS clan.
The Obese Ferret
Pay our bill, thank our kind hosts, Sonia and Alessio, for the previous day's gifts of sparkling wine, torta and antipasto, and then take some time out to relax by the pool before our journey north-west to Toscana.
Do not leave until close to 1.00 and take motorway in to Ascoli Piceno, road then takes us through numerous gorges to Arquata Del Tronto. We had already decided to take the more daunting road across the Sibillini mountains to Visso rather than the easier route to Norcia so shortly after leaving ADT we turn north towards Castelluccio.
By this stage the weather had taken a real turn for the worse and by Castelluccio the temperature had dropped from 26 to 9.5 degrees. To say that the road over the mountains was spectacular would be an understatement and yours truly stayed VERY focussed on the road, leaving Gail to point out the various views. Shortly before Castelluccio we arrived at the amazing Piano Grande, a high altitude plain at 1500 metres, which attracts a surprisingly high number of tourists to its horse-riding ranch. Not at all what one would expect in Italy and Le Marche continues to surprise us.
After the Passo del Gualdo at 1596 metres we take the long descent along the River Nera to the town of Visso, passing on the way Castelsantangelo with the most amazing fortress located on a hill above the town.
We then entered the area called the Valnerina, on the Umbrian side of the Monti Sibillini. This beautiful, lush valley presents such a sharp contrast to the harsh mountain regions to the east.
Finally, down on the plains we head for the Festival town of Spoleto and eventually we arrive at Agriturismo Casiano Piccolo under the walls of Montefalco, the so-called Balcone dell'Umbria.
Lovely meal at restaurant and early to bed after very taxing drive.
Le Marche has far exceeded our expectations, with some remarkable, wild scenery,friendly people and lack of tourists. It's now off to the more tourist-laden Toscana for a week of revelry with the Fullers and the BADWACAS clan.
The Obese Ferret
Friday, May 20, 2011
Thursday 19th May 2011 Agriturismo Castrum
Our 38th Wedding Anniversary!
Have haircut at the same hairdresser who had coloured Gail's hair the day before. Asked him if he could also colour mine but did not have sufficient dye to cover all of the grey!
Set off late morning, heading for Montefortino in the foothills of the Sibillini mountains on the eastern side of the range.
We have run out of superlatives for the scenery in the southern part of Le Marche and Montefortino is another delightful hilltop town. We take a detour along the Ambro river to the sanctuary of the Madonna dell'Ambro. Set a beautiful area surrounded by high peaks this apparently marks the spot where an apparition from the Virgin Mary enabled a young mute shepherdess to speak again. Even an old sceptic like myself has to admit that the bronze statues along the banks of the river to commemorate this event are quite beautiful,especially given their tranquil location.
We stopped to have a picnic lunch by the river and had our own apparition as a group of Italian teenagers descended on the area on what I have come to call 'Hormone Express' outings. We have a new-found admiration for the long-suffering teachers.
Further south we drive to the Gola dell' Infernaccio, a huge deep gorge, reached after a drive and fairly short walk. I ventured slightly further into the gorge than Gail but, surrounded by evidence of numerous landslides I didn't linger any longer than necessary.
Next stop was the town of Montemonaco, which surpassed any of the previous seen on our trip in terms of its location, perched atop a narrow ridge with very high peaks in all directions, including Mount Vettore, the highest in the Sibillinis at 2476 metres. We decide to forgo a drive to the top of Mt Sibilla, firstly because the road might be tough for the rental and secondly because I am a wimp when it comes to high exposed mountain roads.
We continue on the road south to Arquata del Trento passing through increasingly stunning mountain scenery, arriving back at Ascoli Piceno in time for a pre-dinner drink in the superb Piazza del Popolo.
Wonderful anniversary dinner at La Locandiera, where we are served 7 courses as antipasto and feel so full that we are in danger of going straight from ANTIpasto to POST-mortem!
In the event we go straight to the sweets and some vino cotto ( still not really sure what it was ).
I drive home ( we only have a one driver rental ) very cautiously after too much wine although I feel comforted by one of Gail's pronouncements that she will assist me on the way home and " even when I'm drunk I still feel sober". That wouldn't sound too convincing in an Australian court so God knows how it would pan out before an Italian judge!
Arrive home at about 10.30 after a truly memorable anniversary day.
The Obese Ferret
Have haircut at the same hairdresser who had coloured Gail's hair the day before. Asked him if he could also colour mine but did not have sufficient dye to cover all of the grey!
Set off late morning, heading for Montefortino in the foothills of the Sibillini mountains on the eastern side of the range.
We have run out of superlatives for the scenery in the southern part of Le Marche and Montefortino is another delightful hilltop town. We take a detour along the Ambro river to the sanctuary of the Madonna dell'Ambro. Set a beautiful area surrounded by high peaks this apparently marks the spot where an apparition from the Virgin Mary enabled a young mute shepherdess to speak again. Even an old sceptic like myself has to admit that the bronze statues along the banks of the river to commemorate this event are quite beautiful,especially given their tranquil location.
We stopped to have a picnic lunch by the river and had our own apparition as a group of Italian teenagers descended on the area on what I have come to call 'Hormone Express' outings. We have a new-found admiration for the long-suffering teachers.
Further south we drive to the Gola dell' Infernaccio, a huge deep gorge, reached after a drive and fairly short walk. I ventured slightly further into the gorge than Gail but, surrounded by evidence of numerous landslides I didn't linger any longer than necessary.
Next stop was the town of Montemonaco, which surpassed any of the previous seen on our trip in terms of its location, perched atop a narrow ridge with very high peaks in all directions, including Mount Vettore, the highest in the Sibillinis at 2476 metres. We decide to forgo a drive to the top of Mt Sibilla, firstly because the road might be tough for the rental and secondly because I am a wimp when it comes to high exposed mountain roads.
We continue on the road south to Arquata del Trento passing through increasingly stunning mountain scenery, arriving back at Ascoli Piceno in time for a pre-dinner drink in the superb Piazza del Popolo.
Wonderful anniversary dinner at La Locandiera, where we are served 7 courses as antipasto and feel so full that we are in danger of going straight from ANTIpasto to POST-mortem!
In the event we go straight to the sweets and some vino cotto ( still not really sure what it was ).
I drive home ( we only have a one driver rental ) very cautiously after too much wine although I feel comforted by one of Gail's pronouncements that she will assist me on the way home and " even when I'm drunk I still feel sober". That wouldn't sound too convincing in an Australian court so God knows how it would pan out before an Italian judge!
Arrive home at about 10.30 after a truly memorable anniversary day.
The Obese Ferret
Thursday, May 19, 2011
Wednesday 18th May 2011 Agriturismo Castrum
Awake to a beautiful sunny day, a welcome change after a couple of days of inclement weather.
Sonia, daughter-in-law of the owner, calls by to collect Gail and take her to a nearby village, Castel di Lama, to have her hair coloured. I stay back and enjoy an hour and a half by the swimming pool. No chance of a dip as it's real blue acorn territory ( refer to David Niven's book 'The Moon's a Balloon' ).
Coffee and cakes on Gail's return and as hairdresser has done such a good job I decide that it's time for me to have my locks shorn.
Gail, as always very confident that she knows where the hairdresser is located. We eventually come across them by accident after she has for once lost her much-vaunted ( justifiably ) sense of direction. Make an appointment for next day and drive on minor roads into Ascoli Piceno.
AP is a real delight and the Piazza del Populo, the main square, ranks among the best we have seen in Italy.
Unfortunately, our attempt to soak up the atmosphere by eating in one of the restaurants overlooking the piazza are thwarted by two camerieri who appear to be having a lunchtime feud. After 20 action-free minutes we move on to a smaller, stylish bistro where are very speedily served with quality food and wine at very reasonable prices.
Gail adds to the overall experience by managing to lock herself in the bistro's toilet and having to set off an alarm to gain her freedom. Apparently, the automatic door had gone on the blink, although I had no such problems when I went in there a little later!
Parking in AP can be problematic but we managed to find a spot a short walk from the centre. I may have overdone it a little as, stuffing just a few too many coins in the metre, we ended up with parking until 8.40 the next morning. At least we were able enjoy this fabulous place without any fear of parking fines.
G also manages to locate a manicure place as we walk back from a 1st century BC bridge over the river Tronto. I therefore, wander around this superb city for about an hour until the manicure is complete. If nothing else the exercise added to my Italian vocab.
Noticeable how the cities come to life after 5.30/6.00 pm, almost a delayed reaction after the siesta finishes at 3.45 or 4.00 pm.
Home by 8.00 and very light snack before blog/emails.
In bed by 10.30.
The Obese Ferret
Sonia, daughter-in-law of the owner, calls by to collect Gail and take her to a nearby village, Castel di Lama, to have her hair coloured. I stay back and enjoy an hour and a half by the swimming pool. No chance of a dip as it's real blue acorn territory ( refer to David Niven's book 'The Moon's a Balloon' ).
Coffee and cakes on Gail's return and as hairdresser has done such a good job I decide that it's time for me to have my locks shorn.
Gail, as always very confident that she knows where the hairdresser is located. We eventually come across them by accident after she has for once lost her much-vaunted ( justifiably ) sense of direction. Make an appointment for next day and drive on minor roads into Ascoli Piceno.
AP is a real delight and the Piazza del Populo, the main square, ranks among the best we have seen in Italy.
Unfortunately, our attempt to soak up the atmosphere by eating in one of the restaurants overlooking the piazza are thwarted by two camerieri who appear to be having a lunchtime feud. After 20 action-free minutes we move on to a smaller, stylish bistro where are very speedily served with quality food and wine at very reasonable prices.
Gail adds to the overall experience by managing to lock herself in the bistro's toilet and having to set off an alarm to gain her freedom. Apparently, the automatic door had gone on the blink, although I had no such problems when I went in there a little later!
Parking in AP can be problematic but we managed to find a spot a short walk from the centre. I may have overdone it a little as, stuffing just a few too many coins in the metre, we ended up with parking until 8.40 the next morning. At least we were able enjoy this fabulous place without any fear of parking fines.
G also manages to locate a manicure place as we walk back from a 1st century BC bridge over the river Tronto. I therefore, wander around this superb city for about an hour until the manicure is complete. If nothing else the exercise added to my Italian vocab.
Noticeable how the cities come to life after 5.30/6.00 pm, almost a delayed reaction after the siesta finishes at 3.45 or 4.00 pm.
Home by 8.00 and very light snack before blog/emails.
In bed by 10.30.
The Obese Ferret
Tuesday 17th May 2011 Agriturismo Castrum
Breakfast, catch up on washing and then walk up to village of Castorano. Shopping from pharmacy and local food store and enjoy coffee in local cafe full of local characters, where we meet an old guy who had spent over 20 years in Manchester and supports Man U. Fancy spending 20 years in a place and still not realising he is following the wrong team-obviously a slow learner. For while it's enjoyable as he regales us with stories of his time in the UK and makes his views on Signor Bellusconi well known ( all totally negative ).
However, after a while, in true Italian style, he starts to get a bit too friendly, especially towards Gail, and we take our leave, returning to the house to a lunch of prosciutto, cheese and lovely fresh bread.
In the afternoon we decide to visit the slightly larger town of Offida, about 12 kms from Castorano. The town itself is attractive as many hilltop towns are but it appears to be home to a very large number of unsavoury characters ( excluding the Irelands ). Moreover, the town looks neglected, without the community pride so evident in many of the smaller towns.
Return to pizzeria in Castorano for huge meal of antipasto and pizza.
Two bloated bodies turn in at about 10.30
However, after a while, in true Italian style, he starts to get a bit too friendly, especially towards Gail, and we take our leave, returning to the house to a lunch of prosciutto, cheese and lovely fresh bread.
In the afternoon we decide to visit the slightly larger town of Offida, about 12 kms from Castorano. The town itself is attractive as many hilltop towns are but it appears to be home to a very large number of unsavoury characters ( excluding the Irelands ). Moreover, the town looks neglected, without the community pride so evident in many of the smaller towns.
Return to pizzeria in Castorano for huge meal of antipasto and pizza.
Two bloated bodies turn in at about 10.30
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Monday 16th May 2011 Pietra to Ascoli Piceno
Pay our bill and say our goodbyes to our wonderful hosts Jenny and Mauro who have given us a stay to remember. We receive a parting gift from Jenny of a bottle of local red wine and a jar of honey, a lovely surprise.
Pietra Rosa represents the best of what agriturismo should be all about- superb location, home-cooked food from local produce generous, genial hosts who clearly enjoy what they are doing.
Our first port of call is to Gola del Furbo which in sunnier weather looks quite magnificent. We meet up with two groups of schoolchildren out on educational tours and they remind us that kids are the same the world over, noisy, happy, mischievous, a challenge for their teachers and a joy to observe.
From Fossombrone we decide to take a detour on the freeway to Fano, a coastal resort on the Adriatic.
To describe the beach as a disappointment is the understatement of the century. Gail's view in her usual subtle way " the worst beach I've ever seen". Hard to argue with her assessment as the 'beach' is totally made up of pebbles and even worse is covered with literally 1000's of brightly coloured beach umbrellas, currently unused but no doubt lying in wait for the ever-eager sun-seekers who will descend on the resort during the summer season. We leave Fano as quickly as possible, realising how blessed we are in Aus to have such coastal areas.
Continue to just south of Ancora where we head towards the south-west and the beautiful hilltop town of Macerata. For once the Lonely Planet has it right- Macerata is one of Italy's better kept secrets and is just as impressive as many Umbrian and Tuscan hill towns, but without the hordes of tourists.
Leaving Macerata we drive on to Sarnano through increasingly impressive scenery as the mountains of the Sibillini National Park come into view, still snow-capped although we are now well into spring.
After passing through the pretty village of Amandola we pick up the major road east towards our final destination of the Agriturismo Castrum at Castorano, a seemingly simple end to our day!
Wrong again! Tom Tom has been doing a great job all day and duly led us to our B and B by 7.30. He wasn't to know that the owner does not live at the accommodation so we had a bit of a wait while the owner's husband who was working in the fields phoned his wife to let us into our apartment.
Castrum is surrounded by olive groves and vineyards with snow-covered mountains in the distance and the self-catering apartment comes with all mod cons, BBQ and swimming pool although the weather is not co-operating at present. After Pietra Rosa this establishment appears rather more regimented and less of a real 'agriturismo'. However, as we find out during the evening and the next day Guiseppina Maolini, the owner, is kindness itself and does everything possible to make our stay comfortable.
Given the lateness of the hour, and the fact that my prosthetic right knee is suffering from driving a manual car over narrow winding roads for about 7 hours, we decide to eat part of next day's breakfast and get a good night's sleep.
The Obese Ferret.
Pietra Rosa represents the best of what agriturismo should be all about- superb location, home-cooked food from local produce generous, genial hosts who clearly enjoy what they are doing.
Our first port of call is to Gola del Furbo which in sunnier weather looks quite magnificent. We meet up with two groups of schoolchildren out on educational tours and they remind us that kids are the same the world over, noisy, happy, mischievous, a challenge for their teachers and a joy to observe.
From Fossombrone we decide to take a detour on the freeway to Fano, a coastal resort on the Adriatic.
To describe the beach as a disappointment is the understatement of the century. Gail's view in her usual subtle way " the worst beach I've ever seen". Hard to argue with her assessment as the 'beach' is totally made up of pebbles and even worse is covered with literally 1000's of brightly coloured beach umbrellas, currently unused but no doubt lying in wait for the ever-eager sun-seekers who will descend on the resort during the summer season. We leave Fano as quickly as possible, realising how blessed we are in Aus to have such coastal areas.
Continue to just south of Ancora where we head towards the south-west and the beautiful hilltop town of Macerata. For once the Lonely Planet has it right- Macerata is one of Italy's better kept secrets and is just as impressive as many Umbrian and Tuscan hill towns, but without the hordes of tourists.
Leaving Macerata we drive on to Sarnano through increasingly impressive scenery as the mountains of the Sibillini National Park come into view, still snow-capped although we are now well into spring.
After passing through the pretty village of Amandola we pick up the major road east towards our final destination of the Agriturismo Castrum at Castorano, a seemingly simple end to our day!
Wrong again! Tom Tom has been doing a great job all day and duly led us to our B and B by 7.30. He wasn't to know that the owner does not live at the accommodation so we had a bit of a wait while the owner's husband who was working in the fields phoned his wife to let us into our apartment.
Castrum is surrounded by olive groves and vineyards with snow-covered mountains in the distance and the self-catering apartment comes with all mod cons, BBQ and swimming pool although the weather is not co-operating at present. After Pietra Rosa this establishment appears rather more regimented and less of a real 'agriturismo'. However, as we find out during the evening and the next day Guiseppina Maolini, the owner, is kindness itself and does everything possible to make our stay comfortable.
Given the lateness of the hour, and the fact that my prosthetic right knee is suffering from driving a manual car over narrow winding roads for about 7 hours, we decide to eat part of next day's breakfast and get a good night's sleep.
The Obese Ferret.
Monday, May 16, 2011
Sunday 15th May 2011- Pietra Rosa
Breakfast a bit earlier than on previous days so that Gail could catch up on emails, banking etc while I took some time out to phone an Italian friend who lives south of Venezia to explain why on this trip we could not get to see them.
Eventually, left the house at about 11.00 am and headed south towards Fossombrone to see a couple of sights featured prominently in local guide books. The first one was Marmitte dei Giganti or Giants’s Potholes on the Metauro River. This is really a limestone gorge about 30 metres deep which has been carved out by the water over many centuries and is quite an impressive sight.
As the first spots of rain for weeks arrived we decided to drive along a back road to the town of Fossombrone for some lunch- easier said than done as the whole place appeared to have shut down but we finally managed to find a bar serving some fairly poor pastries and coffee. Set off again to see the second of the famous sites in the area, the Gola del Furbo, ( The Throat of Furbo )a magnificent gorge along the Metauro river. Unfortunately, the weather had closed in by this time and although through the heavy rain we were able to appreciate the beauty of the area we decided to head for home and return the next day for a second viewing.
Rest of afternoon spent with Gail sorting out a slideshow from the Croatian photos and generally just relaxing. Another superb dinner from Jenny, whose creativity never ceases to amaze us and a quick chat with a couple from Rotterdam who proved to be far more affable than the 4 Italians who were also in the dining room. I ate rabbit for the first time in 50 years ( quite delicious ) after overcoming a long-held prejudice from my early years.
A relatively early night in preparation for the journey south the next day to Ascoli Piceno.
The Obese Ferret.
Sunday, May 15, 2011
Saturday 14th May 2011- Pietra Rosa
Later start than usual so we only set off for San Marino at about 10.00am.
When we had told Jenny our host at Pietra Rosa that we intended to drive to San Marino she merely said “ Why ? “. Basically because it’s there and we had heard so many negative reports about this, the 3rd smallest state in the world after the Vatican and Monaco, that we had to check it out for ourselves.
Sure enough, it is something of a caricature, has a greater density of kitsch souvenirs than any other place we have visited and resembles something of a theme park. However, there is no denying that its location atop of a rocky outcrop is truly breathtaking, with 360 degree views across the surrounding areas.
As it has only one main street the visit to this nation state was over in one hour but we were both pleased to have taken the detour to this oddity at the southern tip of Emilia Romagna.
Rather than face another drive on the roadworks-plagued A 14 freeway we headed west from San Marino through some superb mountain scenery to the town of San Sepolcro. What followed next was the surprise of the day as the switchback road up from San Sepolcro to Urbania proved to be on a par with such a road as Trollstigsveien in Norway, the famous road near to the world-famous Geiranger Fjord.
The purpose of the visit to Urbania was merely to see the original home of the Centro Studi Italiani, an organisation founded by a Signor Pasotti, which now has a branch in Carlton, Melbourne, where I had attended classes over the past 3 years.
Back at Pietra Rosa for yet another fine evening meal and then on to this blog.
As we did not have any ‘Gailisms’ for the day I thought I would backtrack a couple of days when we were trying to remember the name for the boats that ply their trade on the canals of Venice ( not the gondolas ). Gail ventured that they might be ‘vendettas’ or something similar. They are in fact called ‘vaporettos’ but the thought of anyone ordering a’ vendetta’ for a while,especially in the land of the ‘Cosa Nostra’ and ‘ ndragheta’ certainly conjured up a very interesting image!
Cheers for now.
The Obese Ferret
Friday 13th May 2011 Agriturismo Pietra Rosa
We welcome the less elaborate but healthy breakfast served,after weeks of the heavier variety and after taking up Jenny’s offer to wash our clothes in her washing machine we set off on a short hike up the hills above Pietra Rosa, from which vantage point we are able to truly appreciate its unbelievable setting.
Return to house in good time to hang out the washing and then head off to the Renaissance city of Urbino.
Urbino is viewed as one of the jewels of Le Marche and on this our second visit there we are reminded once again of what it has to offer in terms of architecture, ambience ,culture and location. In contrast to Bologna it demonstrates what can be achieved with a communal sense of pride and commitment.
Back to Pietra Rosa to sort out the washing and then relax until dinner with a bit of reading and blog-writing. Also spend some time on what is becoming a popular pastime-finding the numerous factual errors in the Lonely Planet guide books.
Jenny prepared a great meal for us which includes cinghiale ( wild boar ) and battered elderberry flowers!
Only 4 guests in the dining room and not a word was spoken between ourselves and the young Italians at the next table. We are rapidly learning that the Italians are nowhere near as gregarious as one might imagine, with our host Jenny being the exception.
Amusing moment over dinner when Gail mentioned that she might like a boiled egg for breakfast the next day. The expression for boiled egg is uova alla coque which in itself is unremarkable but when she added that she would probably ask for a soft uova alla coque I wasn’t really sure whether it was a reflection of our 38 years of marriage or a glimpse of what is to come as I enter my dotage!
The Obese Ferret.
Thursday 12th May 2011 Bologna to Urbino
In fact , Gail had not done her computer work the previous evening and we decided instead to have dinner at a superb organic food restaurant serving very high quality fare in a lovely atmosphere.
After breakfast we head off to Europcar to check out our 21 day car rental, deciding to delay the pick-up time until 3.00 pm. ( in true Italian style they take a siesta from 12.45 till 3.00. Gail on computer for some time back at hotel, after which we do our overdue walking tour of Bologna.
Bologna has some wonderful buildings and magnificent arcades and porticos but we are left with the feeling that there is no real pride in the city. Graffiti abounds ( or should it be abound? ) and many of the streets and alleys are quite simply disgustingly dirty. A teacher would comment “ could do better”.
One highlight was, however, a visit to La Sorbetteria Castiglione, which has been voted the best gelateria in Italy by the Concorso Internazionale di Gelaterie. Fantastic selection and quality.
Collect car from Europcar and delighted to find that we have a BMW 120D with only 249 kms on the clock. Gail at first thinks the guy at the counter is joking as we have booked merely a compact vehicle. Whilst the BMW is certainly compact it is a great little car with plenty under the bonnet, especially in the lower gear range.
Drive down to Urbino uneventful until we get closer to the Agriturismo and Gail starts to doubt Tom Tom. After going round in circles with a map lacking in detail we ( read Gail )decide that he is after all a man to be trusted and we arrive at Pietra Rosa Agriturismo by 6.40 pm. The owners Jenny ( real Italian name Grazia ) and husband Mauro are delightful people and the B and B is in the most spectacular position high above a valley. Their dog, Baoli ( a Chinese name of unknown origin) takes a dislike to both of us but after trying to chew off one of my fingers and having a go at Gail’s legs ( obviously a canine with no taste as I think that she posseses some very nice pins ) he settles down to being merely somewhat on the nose.
Jenny speaks excellent English but I am able to practice my inadequate Italian on Mauro.
They prepare an excellent dinner with home produce, although Mauro burns his special sausages on the first attempt and the whole meal is washed down with a very tasty red from Moltepulciano. As his very rich sausages prove too much for my notoriously fragile digestive system it would perhaps have been better if he had set the whole kitchen on fire!
In bed at a respectable hour to allow our still sore limbs more time to recover.
Thursday, May 12, 2011
Wednesday 11th May 2011 Grasisce to Trieste
After breakfast Alan collects us from the Agriturismo and takes us in the van back to the railway station in Trieste from where we take the train to Venezia. We get off at Venezia Mestre while Cath and Ian continue on to Venezia S. Luzia for a 3 day stay in Venice ( meeting up with Doug and Brenda Field ).
We catch a Eurostar train from Venezia to Bologna, journey memorable, not for any interesting scenery, but by two elderly Italian ladies who clearly not reserved any seats ( seat reservation is compulsory on Eurostar ) and were moved on any number of times in a game of musical seats as passengers claimed their correct places. By half an hour out of Venezia we were eventually all settled in for the journey.
Arrive at Bologna to find that the Hotel Star Excelsior was just across the road from the station, a real relief as we were heavily laden with luggage and still somewhat footsore from the 310 kms cycling tour.
No walking tour of the city this evening so Gail does some internet work and after meal we are off to bed.
Roll on the Italian Experience!
The Obese Ferret.
PS. For any new readers of these blogs the ‘Obese Ferret’ name was given to me after I told my nephew Andy that I had put on a small amount of weight.
Tuesday 10th May 2011 Gracisce to Klostar
Breakfast at 8.00 in the superb old Konoba Marino where we have spent the night. One the best hotels on this trip, beautifully appointed and stylish antique bedrooms.
Cath understandably reluctant to take any risks which might spoil the remaining weeks of their holiday so decides to also give the cycling a miss for another day.
We all take a little time out to explore this superb old fortified town, with its unique setting high above the surrounding countryside.
There are a few ups and downs as we cycle through some very pleasant undulating scenery. Certainly this gives us some respite from the brutal climbs of previous days.
This relaxing, gentle cycling continues until we reach the ruins of Dvigrad,set high above the Lim Valley. Dvigrad was once an Istrian town controlling the road leading from the Lim Valley to the east but the last inhabitants left in the mid-17th century.
Steep descent to the valley floor,inevitably followed by an ascent on the western side of the gorge up to the village of Mrgani. Climb fairly long but less arduous than many others encountered on this trip.
After passing through any number of unremarkable small villages we finally arrive back at Klostar and the Agriturismo Matosevic, from where we had started our 7 day cycling adventure.
Usual fine home-cooked meal in the restaurant and some reminiscing over old times before turning in at about 10.00 pm.
Croatia has been a real surprise packet for all of us with the spectacular scenery surpassing all expectations and we leave this lovely country with a lasting impression of a nation finally finding her feet after the tragedy of the Balkan wars.
There is an enormous amount of untapped potential,especially in the area of tourism and one can only hope that it will still remain ‘the mediterranean as it once was” for some time in the future.
Now off to Italy after another immensely enjoyable holiday experience from the Irelands/Smiths stable which brought you The Overland Track, Tasmania, the Great Ocean Walk, Victoria and the Milford Sound and Routeburn tracks, New Zealand.
Watch this space for news of more adventures with the Travelling Wrinklies!
The Obese Ferret.
Monday 9th May-Rabac to Gracisce
I wake up very early and take an early morning stroll down to the seafront of Rabac, well ahead of the tourist hordes.
It is a beautiful town and as the advertising slogan says’ Croatia- how the Mediterrean used to be’. Long may it continue.
Breakfast at 8.00 with the news that Cath is suffering from ailments, which much to her disappointment, prevent her from cycling today. Alan will take her to Grascisce and we will meet her at the end of the day.
In view of the dangers inherent in cycling up from Rabac to Labin we take up Alan’s offer to drive us to Labin.
After stocking up with food for the day we leave Labin and travel through some very pleasant rural areas until we reach Gologorica Dol where we stop for our picnic lunch.
We then embark on the steepest and toughest climb we have encountered ( 10% ) so far, up to Gologorica village. All three of us are exhausted by the time we reach the top, with Gail in particular somewhat distressed from the heat and the exertion of such a gruelling climb.
More very pleasant rural scenery before we reach Pazin and start a tortuous climb in the direction of Gracisce, our overnight destination.
If the gradient of the climb were not enough, the volume of traffic, including some very large semi-trailers, made this section truly scary. However, we all arrived at the top unscathed with Gail doing a sterling job in such trying circumstances.
Arrive at the historic town of Gracisce by 5.30 and after catching up on the washing we meet in the hotel restaurant for a very pleasant meal.
Event of the day- Gail toppling off her bike while almost stationary on the verge of the road into a ditch in a slow- motion swan dive of which Margot Fonteyn would have been proud, followed by my bag falling off my bike shortly thereafter. For some reason my comment that “ I had lost two bags within 200 metres did not go down very well with my better half”!
Bed after writing up blog till midnight.
Sunday 8th May 2011- Buzet to Rabac
Earlier start than usual with breakfast at 7.00 am although our original plan had been to leave the hotel at 6.30 and forgo breakfast. ( More of the repercussions of this decision later )
Leaving the town of Buzet we almost immediately started the long climb up out of the valley. Along the way we came across a fellow who had spent 5 years in Melbourne and who wanted to have a good long chat about all manner of subjects. His father soon appeared to join in on the conversation and we managed to converse through a mixture of Italian, pigeon English and one or two Croat words.
Gail was delighted to receive a Mother’s Day phone call from Craig about 6 kms into our VERY long climb up to a plateau. Gail explained after the call that she was exhausted from eating a Twix bar and rushing to find her mobile when it suddenly rang.This came as a bit of a surprise to the rest of us as we always assumed that, in common with the others in our team, the fatigue was a result of the 150+ kms we had covered through some very tough terrain! Craig highly amused to be told that we had covered less than 5 kms in 2 hours!
Eventually, we pass very close to the border with Slovenia and then continue on to the aptly named town of Slum in the area of Cicarija. This region apparently has a harsh climate and is now a very sparsely populated area.
More climbing up to the plateau, soon reaching Gorna Nugla from where we had our first rather hazy sight of Istria’s highest mountain,Vojak ( 1396 metres )
At 18.1 kms we arrive at the lovely town of Roc,inhabited since prehistoric times.
In the Middle Ages Roc was the centre of Glagolitic writing. Glagolitic was the first Slavic alphabet and does not correspond to any European or Asian script.
Roc is a beautifully maintained town and on this day market stalls lined the streets, presenting a real carnival atmosphere.
Sadly, time constraints prevented us from spending more than a few minutes in Roc when we really needed a couple of hours to do justice to this fine town.
Shortly after leaving Roc we enter the Glagolitic Avenue, which covers an area of 7 kms and is dedicated to the scholars of Glagolitic writing.
At 25.7 kms we find ourselves in the town of Hum, reputedly the smallest town in the world . ( there are no doubt many attention-hungry towns which make a similar claim. )Nevertheless we enjoy our picnic lunch in this very picturesque,touristy town,perched high above the surrounding areas.
Boljun is reached at the 40 kms mark and this ancient fortified town was once the setting for the film ‘The Last Road to China’.
By now the weather has taken a turn for the worse and we are hit by a severe squall and the ever-darkening skies bring on the realisation that we run the risk of not completing the full 80 kms to Rabac before darkness ( the bikes have no lights ).
However, we press on to Vozilici and Krsan and decide to see if we can reach Nedescina, where we would make a decision on whether to call Alan, the tour operator, for an emergency pick-up to take us on to Rabac, our destination for the night.
The general consensus is that we should make the call, as it is now clear that we will not make Rabac in time. Alan arrives to collect us from Krsan and we duly arrive in Rabac at shortly after 8.30 pm.
With benefit of hindsight, the pick-up call was the only option as apart from the lack of daylight and the fatigue of the group the road down from Labin to Rabac proved to be very dangerous for cyclists.
Average meal at the hotel and then off to bed at the end of a very long day ( 64 kms covered ) with the news that Chelsea have lost to Man U 2-1, assuring the latter of their 19th Premier League title.
Moment of the day- When we arrive in Hum I come across a group of Germans having their photographs taken in front of the Hum sign. I make a comment to them in German and one of them remarks that I must be Swiss ( not the first time that my slightly Swedish accent when speaking German has confused people ). Sitting on my bike I tell them that I have in fact come from Australia. “ surely not all the way from Australia on that bike” one of them shouts out! I am still not sure if he was joking.
Saturday 7th May- Montovun to Buzet.
A group of singers who sounded like the Red Army choir kept us awake in the early hours of the morning and local workman took on the insomniacs’ shift by making a hell of a noise long before any normal person would have been out and about.
Montovun one of the real jewels of Istria,with its truly magnificent position above the surrounding countryside and lovely old buildings.
Set off down to the valley below the town and soon starting climbing up testing slopes towards Karojba and Pazin. A real shock to the system at this early hour. Over the next few hours it was really a question of ups and downs as the tour operator had warned us.
Eventally descend to the valley floor and the site of the Jezero Butoniga reservoir.
Picnic near the dam wall in idyllic surroundings lulled into a false sense of security as there followed a truly brutal cycling/walking climb northwards towards the city of truffles, Buzet.
We arrived at the top of climb suffering variously from nausea,burning limbs,sore backs and all manner of other afflictions. Only marginally less gruelling than the first day’s Groznjan climb.
However, once at the top we were rewarded by a long descent, at speed, down to Buzet.
The Hotel Fontana adequate but hardly up to the standard of the Hotel Kastel at Montovun.
Quick pizza dinner then back to the hotel only to find that there is a Croatian party going on 2 floors below rooms,and an incredibly on at that.
I’m finishing this blog at 10.45 pm and the shindig is still going full bore and sounding more and more like something from a Butlins’ Holiday Camp.
So it’s goodnight from me and goodnight from them!
Friday 6th May Buje to Montovun.
Set off at about 8.30 after very good breakfast to cycle through the hills northwest Istria. We soon find out that grocery shops are thin on the ground and Ian and I are obliged to take a relatively short but testing climb up to Oprtalj, a very impressive hilltop town, where we stock up on provisions while the ladies wait for us along the main road. At Ian’s suggestion we buy ice-creams as a surprise and these are well received by the girls.
Have a picnic lunch under vine groves on a wooden bench in a quaint village.
Noticeable that there seems to be less wealth in the farming community in these parts with quite a lot of manual work carried.
Mid-afternoon we come across the ruins of a medieval castle at Opatija and stop at a konoba ( local restaurant ) where we are served with drinks and some delicious pancakes. The food takes far longer than expected to arrive but proves to be well worth the wait.
The owner tries to fiddle me out of some change and pays the price as I Ieave him a far smaller tip than I would normally ( as Gail will attest I am usually fairly generous in that regard )
Descend again to the Mrna River valley and make the long steep ascent to the beautiful hill-top town of Montovun.
Hotel Kastel was formally a Venetian palace and makes for a very welcoming site after a fairly taxing day of cycling.
Day ends with a superb meal in the restaurant.
Another Smithy moment of the day- During a discussion on the importance of wearing bright coloured clothes for safety reasons Smithy points out that he doesn’t need to as he has such a colourful personality compared with the rest of us! When we explained that this would not be immediately clear to a driver heading his way at 100 kms per hour he said we had overlooked his natural ‘aura’ which was visible from some distance. Hopefully we won’t need to put this theory to the test.
Ian and Cathy have been put into a ‘special’ room in some sort of attic on the third floor and the only special thing about is that the shower doesn’t work properly, the promised top floor view was obscured by a huge tree and Ian had to use bandaids to cover up a blue light on their air conditioning unit which was flashing above their bed.
Turn in early to prepare for next day’s heavy bout of cycling.
Friday, May 6, 2011
Thursday 5th May
Breakfast at 8.00 and then off on the bikes, heading north through Istria.
Beautiful scenery so reminiscent of Tuscany but without the tourists. For the most part the cycling is not too taxing although Cath has some problems with her gears slipping. Ian offers to test it out for her and his response to my question as to how the test had gone was a Smithy classic " well, it's got better brakes than mine", presumably designed to reassure Cath that if the faulty gear change does cause her to have an accident the top-class brakes will stop it from being fatal.
We stop at the small town of Visnjan for coffee and mid-afternoon take a roadside break for a quick picnic before making the rather hair-raising descent to the Mirna river. ( the high number of fast-moving trucks etc only adds to the risk factor and it is not an experience enjoyed by Gail and Cath in particular).
After crossing the river we start the tortuous 6 km climb up to the beautiful hilltop town of Groznjan along a gravel road. Cath and Gail push their bikes to the top, a real achievement given the terrain, hot weather and the steep incline. Ian reaches the top through a mixture of cycling and walking and although I cycle most of the way the climb beats me as well near the summit and its Shanks Pony for me for a section.
Groznjan is a magnificent hilltop town, quite the equal of any in Italy, and the views across the valley of the River Mirna are breathtaking.
After a cold drink at a bar we continue on the town of Buje and the nearby hotel Parenzana.
Great dinner and drinks before we drag our decidedly weary limbs off to bed at 10.00pm.
Only a few hundred more kms to go!
Beautiful scenery so reminiscent of Tuscany but without the tourists. For the most part the cycling is not too taxing although Cath has some problems with her gears slipping. Ian offers to test it out for her and his response to my question as to how the test had gone was a Smithy classic " well, it's got better brakes than mine", presumably designed to reassure Cath that if the faulty gear change does cause her to have an accident the top-class brakes will stop it from being fatal.
We stop at the small town of Visnjan for coffee and mid-afternoon take a roadside break for a quick picnic before making the rather hair-raising descent to the Mirna river. ( the high number of fast-moving trucks etc only adds to the risk factor and it is not an experience enjoyed by Gail and Cath in particular).
After crossing the river we start the tortuous 6 km climb up to the beautiful hilltop town of Groznjan along a gravel road. Cath and Gail push their bikes to the top, a real achievement given the terrain, hot weather and the steep incline. Ian reaches the top through a mixture of cycling and walking and although I cycle most of the way the climb beats me as well near the summit and its Shanks Pony for me for a section.
Groznjan is a magnificent hilltop town, quite the equal of any in Italy, and the views across the valley of the River Mirna are breathtaking.
After a cold drink at a bar we continue on the town of Buje and the nearby hotel Parenzana.
Great dinner and drinks before we drag our decidedly weary limbs off to bed at 10.00pm.
Only a few hundred more kms to go!
Wednesday 4th May
After breakfast I go along with Ian ( as interpreter ) to a computer shop nearby as Ian had been having some problems connecting with the internet. Arrive there to find that the shop only opens at 3.30 pm for a few hours which seems to be taking the siesta culture a bit far.
Pack our backs and await the arrival of the mini-bus to take us to Klostar, the starting point for our 7 day bike tour of Croatia.
The bus eventually arrives at 11.30 after the driver, a Serb called Mira, had had some problems in locating
our hotel.
About a 2 hour drive which takes us out of Italy into Slovenia and then into Croatia. A minor delay at the Slovenia/Croatia border when the official notices that Cath and Ian did not have their passport stamped when entering Italy ( due to a lax official who had become embroiled in an argument with another traveller)
Gail and I both agreed that if they were detained they were on their own! This gesture of antipodean solidarity was much appreciated by the Smiths.
Arrive at our agriturismo in Klostar to be met by Milka Makosevic, the owner and a very pleasant lady.
Alan from the cycling tour operators calls in mid-afternoon to provide with a briefing, maps and introduce us to our bikes. I have decided to call mine Pippa as it is a Swedish word for f..... and that is probably how I will feel by the end of the trip!
After much testing we decide on our 4 bikes from a selection of 6. Predictably, Smithy gets some hi-tech
beast with adjustable handlebars, an ejector seat and a vibrator which massages his rear end as he cycles along. The rest of us have the equivalent of 2 wheel penny farthings.
Milka serves us with her own local white wine which is truly terrible but the lady means well.
Dinner in the evening at Milka's restaurant is a veritable 4 course feast and her red wine is a marked improvement on the earlier white offering.
We waddle off to bed for a good night's sleep in preparation for the next day's baptism of fire on the bikes.
Pack our backs and await the arrival of the mini-bus to take us to Klostar, the starting point for our 7 day bike tour of Croatia.
The bus eventually arrives at 11.30 after the driver, a Serb called Mira, had had some problems in locating
our hotel.
About a 2 hour drive which takes us out of Italy into Slovenia and then into Croatia. A minor delay at the Slovenia/Croatia border when the official notices that Cath and Ian did not have their passport stamped when entering Italy ( due to a lax official who had become embroiled in an argument with another traveller)
Gail and I both agreed that if they were detained they were on their own! This gesture of antipodean solidarity was much appreciated by the Smiths.
Arrive at our agriturismo in Klostar to be met by Milka Makosevic, the owner and a very pleasant lady.
Alan from the cycling tour operators calls in mid-afternoon to provide with a briefing, maps and introduce us to our bikes. I have decided to call mine Pippa as it is a Swedish word for f..... and that is probably how I will feel by the end of the trip!
After much testing we decide on our 4 bikes from a selection of 6. Predictably, Smithy gets some hi-tech
beast with adjustable handlebars, an ejector seat and a vibrator which massages his rear end as he cycles along. The rest of us have the equivalent of 2 wheel penny farthings.
Milka serves us with her own local white wine which is truly terrible but the lady means well.
Dinner in the evening at Milka's restaurant is a veritable 4 course feast and her red wine is a marked improvement on the earlier white offering.
We waddle off to bed for a good night's sleep in preparation for the next day's baptism of fire on the bikes.
Tuesday 3rd May
Late breakfast and then back to the city centre, stopping at the main square again for coffee at cafe Audace.
Cath and Ian then retrace our steps by visiting the Castello di San Giusto.
Rendezvous again at 3.00 for more gelato and then a tram ride up to the hills above the city. Magnificent views of Trieste from the north-east.
Fine dinner at the Buffet da Siora Rosa and then back to hotel for respectably early night.
Monday 2nd May
Woke up to remember that this decrepit old blogger had left out a few items from the previous day’s events.
Firstly, during our train journey from Venice to Trieste I was in the process of trying to delete missed and inadvertently called Craig not once but 3 times. Under normal circumstances this would have been sign of fatherly affection from across the world but unfortunately it was 3.00 am in Melbourne. A semi-comatose son had readily concurred with my observation that it was probably a bit early to be calling him and the conversation was one of the shortest ever from overseas!
I also managed to overlook the fact that on arrival in Trieste G and I had taken a stroll down the lovely Viale XX Settembre, close to the hotel and had enjoyed pasta and a drink at Madisons, a convivial bar/bistro.
Most of the above does not make for riveting reading but I didn’t wish to leave any info from my blog.
Monday a very fine day weather-wise so head off straight down to XX Settembre to indulge ourselves with gelato at Madisons. They are closed all day Monday so we check out a gelateria nearby where a truly miserable b. of a woman grudgingly serves us one scoop each of some very tasty gelato ( she appeared to be disdainful at the small value of our purchase.)
Embark on a walking tour of Trieste which turns out to be a very impressive city in a wonderful location. The Piazza dell’Unita dell’Italia is a magnificent area opening out on to the harbour front.
Next stop is the Castello di San Giusto, set high above the city and offering a glorious view of the city and the surrounding area. Unfortunately, it takes a very steep climb up steps to reach the castle but we comfortourselves with the thought that it is all good training for our Croatian cycle tour.
Back in town we enjoy a snack at another cafe on XX Settembre, explore more of the city centre and end the day dining at one of the many small restaurants just back from the waterfront and sharing a bottle of wine in a very short period of time.
After receiving a text from Ian Smith advising us of their ETA at the hotel in Trieste we hurry back to meet them, in a slightly tipsy state.
It’s great to see them again looking well if a little jet-lagged. They are keen to have a bite to eat so we go off to a pizza bar on the ever-popular XX Settembre.
Turn in early only for Cath to set off the alarm in her shower, not once but twice, thinking that it was a cord for the light. The alarm is designed for emergencies, mainly with old people in mind ,so at least it served the purpose for which it was installed!
Another Gail moment- I was complaining that she wanted to learn more Italian but would never respond to me when I tried to speak some Italian to her. She explained that she she was very happy for me to speak but I should not expect a response. Conclusion- I may as well talk to the bedroom wall or to a mirror as Gail kindly suggested as it will be just as productive.
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