I am up early to walk down to the Trevi Fountain before the Madding Crowd arrives and what a delight it is to enjoy this great monument in peace and quiet.
Breakfast, a quick phone call to Craig, check out from the hotel and then set off on the long walk, past the magnificent Vittorio Emanuele 11 monument, to the statue of Garibaldi, high above the city in Il Gianicolo garden. A very strenuous climb was rewarded by a panoramic view of Rome and from this vantage point it comes as a surprise to see that The Vittorio Emanuele Monument is in fact higher than virtually all other buildings in the city, with the exception of St Peter's.
Easier walk back down to St Peter's square but time constraints mean that we have no hope of getting into the cathedral itself. Noticeable how many large-scale posters/photographs there are of the late Pope John Paul all around Rome and elsewhere in Italy and how they appear to represent the huge affection and devotion felt for this man compared to the current pontiff.
Back to the hotel for transport to the airport. Flight delayed due to bad weather in Frankfurt but one hour later we are off on a very bumpy flight.
Our 2 month stay in various parts of Europe has been truly memorable so it's now time to start planning our next adventure. G has already guaranteed that it will NOT include a 310 kms bike ride!
The Obese Ferret signing off until he can next bore you all to tears.
To those people who have followed the blog- a big 'thank you'. To everybody else- I can't help it if you don't appreciate literary genius when you see it!
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Saturday 4th June Rome
Lovely breakfast and then it's off on our walking tour of one of the world's great cities, even with the hordes of tourists.
First port of call is The Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps, shopping of the window and real variety and then continue to the architectural wonder, the Pantheon and thence to our favourite square in Rome, the Piazza Navona. Quick visit to Castel Sant'Angelo and St Peter's ( both from the outside only ) and then it's back to P. Navona for a long-overdue drink at one of the many bars. While here we meet up with a very friendly couple, Neil, originally from Liverpool but now living in Dussledorf and his partner, Marta, born in Poland but now settled in Frankfurt.
We had a thoroughly enjoyable 2 hours with them and exchanged details for possible contact in the future. Neil is one of the few English fellows who doesn't support Man U ( he follows Everton ) so he can't be all that bad.
To finish off a super day it's back to the same restaurant where we had dined the previous day, Spiriti e Forme, and the very fine meal served certainly justified our decision to make a return visit.
A real bonus before we go back to the hotel. I had noticed on a board in Piazza Navona that Jose Carreras was due to give a free concert on the Spanish Steps that evening in honour of Pavarotti and so it was that for about 45 minutes we were treated to a performance from one of the tenor greats, in a magical location. Although brought to a premature end by heavy rain it was an evening to remember.
Can't let a day go by without a 'Gail' moment.
I was discussing with G what the other members of the Berwick group would be doing by now and when we got to Chris and Ernie Gail stated with confidence ( she always does ) that they would be taking Emma to Pisa before going on to Bologna. I questioned why they would be returning to Bologna after Pisa and Gail, getting quite feisty, said that they happened to love that area. It still escaping me why they would travel so far east again after Tuscany, Gail, by now exasperated with yours truly, explained it was because they love Beaune and that area.
G was in fact confusing Bologna with Burgundy, an understandable mistake as they both begin with B and are both in Europe!
The Obese Ferret
First port of call is The Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps, shopping of the window and real variety and then continue to the architectural wonder, the Pantheon and thence to our favourite square in Rome, the Piazza Navona. Quick visit to Castel Sant'Angelo and St Peter's ( both from the outside only ) and then it's back to P. Navona for a long-overdue drink at one of the many bars. While here we meet up with a very friendly couple, Neil, originally from Liverpool but now living in Dussledorf and his partner, Marta, born in Poland but now settled in Frankfurt.
We had a thoroughly enjoyable 2 hours with them and exchanged details for possible contact in the future. Neil is one of the few English fellows who doesn't support Man U ( he follows Everton ) so he can't be all that bad.
To finish off a super day it's back to the same restaurant where we had dined the previous day, Spiriti e Forme, and the very fine meal served certainly justified our decision to make a return visit.
A real bonus before we go back to the hotel. I had noticed on a board in Piazza Navona that Jose Carreras was due to give a free concert on the Spanish Steps that evening in honour of Pavarotti and so it was that for about 45 minutes we were treated to a performance from one of the tenor greats, in a magical location. Although brought to a premature end by heavy rain it was an evening to remember.
Can't let a day go by without a 'Gail' moment.
I was discussing with G what the other members of the Berwick group would be doing by now and when we got to Chris and Ernie Gail stated with confidence ( she always does ) that they would be taking Emma to Pisa before going on to Bologna. I questioned why they would be returning to Bologna after Pisa and Gail, getting quite feisty, said that they happened to love that area. It still escaping me why they would travel so far east again after Tuscany, Gail, by now exasperated with yours truly, explained it was because they love Beaune and that area.
G was in fact confusing Bologna with Burgundy, an understandable mistake as they both begin with B and are both in Europe!
The Obese Ferret
Friday 3rd June 2011 Anversa to Rome.
Say our goodbyes to Samantha in the office of La Porta ( we had already said cheerio to Marcello and Nunzio Marcelli, the owner the evening before ) and head off down the valley to the largest town in the area, Sulmona. Surrounded by some very high peaks, Sulmona's main claim to fame is as the birthplace of the classical poet, Ovid. It also proves to be one of the more impressive provincial towns we have seen in Abruzzo, with a great atmosphere, a magnificent main square and for once an official at the tourist office who went out of his way to provide us with detailed information, not only on Sulmona, but also on Abruzzo in general. Such assistance had been noticeably absent from all other tourist offices in Italy. Last port of call in Sulmona is the world famous Confetti Pelino factory which was founded in 1783. Sulmona is now the centre of the almond confetti business,as evidenced by the huge number of confetti retailers throughout the city.
After a couple of hours in this delightful city we head off on the trip west to the Eternal City.
The drive proves to be uneventful although the weather takes a real turn for the worse during the afternoon.
Gail and I had decided to keep our rental car until the Sunday when we were due to fly out to Frankfurt and then on to Singapore. We had told ourselves that we could park the car near to our hotel and this would give us more flexibility should we wish to travel to sights outside of Rome. Tom Tom would have it all under control and it would all be very straightforward.
All went well until we arrived at the Colloseum and found that the police had sealed off the area leading to where our hotel was located. This was not on our agenda and poor old Tom had certainly not factored it into his calculations. After more than an hour of going round in circles and seeing some of Rome's greatest monuments at least 3 times we admitted defeat, offloaded the car at the airport, and took a cab into the White Hotel near the Trevi Fountain. To our surprise we discovered that we had been within 50 metres of the hotel at least a couple of times during our Tom Tom confusion period. What happened to a good old map rather than relying on Tom whose performance had dipped markedly after we changed the voice from Australian to an Irish accent!
Hotel in great location and very friendly staff. Walk down to the Trevi Fountain and were staggered by the unbelievable number of tourists. We had never seen Rome this busy before and decided to find refuge in a lovely nearby restaurant serving quality food in a relatively quiet side-street.
Early night after planning our walking tour of Rome the next day.
The Obese Ferret.
After a couple of hours in this delightful city we head off on the trip west to the Eternal City.
The drive proves to be uneventful although the weather takes a real turn for the worse during the afternoon.
Gail and I had decided to keep our rental car until the Sunday when we were due to fly out to Frankfurt and then on to Singapore. We had told ourselves that we could park the car near to our hotel and this would give us more flexibility should we wish to travel to sights outside of Rome. Tom Tom would have it all under control and it would all be very straightforward.
All went well until we arrived at the Colloseum and found that the police had sealed off the area leading to where our hotel was located. This was not on our agenda and poor old Tom had certainly not factored it into his calculations. After more than an hour of going round in circles and seeing some of Rome's greatest monuments at least 3 times we admitted defeat, offloaded the car at the airport, and took a cab into the White Hotel near the Trevi Fountain. To our surprise we discovered that we had been within 50 metres of the hotel at least a couple of times during our Tom Tom confusion period. What happened to a good old map rather than relying on Tom whose performance had dipped markedly after we changed the voice from Australian to an Irish accent!
Hotel in great location and very friendly staff. Walk down to the Trevi Fountain and were staggered by the unbelievable number of tourists. We had never seen Rome this busy before and decided to find refuge in a lovely nearby restaurant serving quality food in a relatively quiet side-street.
Early night after planning our walking tour of Rome the next day.
The Obese Ferret.
Friday, June 3, 2011
Thursday 2nd June 2011 La Porta dei Parchi
Leave part of the wooden shutters to our room open so we wake up a lot earlier than has been the case for some time. Fairly leaden skies to start with but the forecast is for variable weather for most of the day.
Breakfast very basic but quality locally baked bread, home-made jam and ricotta cheese are ideal after considerable gluttony at last agriturismo in Peschici.
Spend some time booking a hotel near the Trevi Fountain for our last 2 nights in Rome and then walk down to the nearby village of Asverna. This turns out to be a real surprise and larger than expected. After the obligatory coffee in the square we saunter round the historic centre of this beautifully kept village.
Shortly after our arrival on the previous day we had observed a small town sitting precariously atop a high ridge behind Asverna and assumed that this was the much-vaunted town of Scanno at an altitude of 1080 metres. We, therefore, set off in the car along yet another breathtaking mountain road with yours truly psyching himself up to tackle the switchbacks. Soon find out that this town is in fact called Castrovalva and Scanno is in fact some 15 kms to the south through the awesome Gola del Sagittario, a very deep gorge through which the Sagittario river runs. The river has been damned to form the Lago di Scanno further up the gorge and the road hugs the cliff face in another of the engineering feats which have become all too familiar to us in Italy.
Some kms up the gorge we see in the distance a beautiful hilltop town which we assume again is Scanno. Wrong again! This is Villalago and its unbelievable position high above the gorge surpasses anything we have seen before. We take a quick detour into this wonderful small town and we are rewarded with a torrential downpour which in no way diminishes our enthusiasm for this unheralded gem of a town.
Now the news you have all been waiting for- yes we do arrive at Scanno which has become a real tourist centre in recent years. Put on the map by the Photographer Cartier-Bresson during WW Two who was fascinated by the traditional dresses of the local ladies Scanno is now expanding at a rapid rate, with many Alpine-style hotels and apartments springing up. Sadly, the dresses seem to have become more of a feature in a bi-annual festival although one can still see some of the more elderly ladies in the traditional garb going about their daily business.
Another exhilarating drive takes us back to the Agri and we resist the temptation ( not very strong on my part ) to tackle the very daunting drive up to Castrovalva. Decide to visit the nearby town of Cocullo whose main claim to fame is its May Processione dei Serpari which involves some intrepid characters adorning the statue of San Domenico with jewels, banknotes and live snakes. The procession has pagan origins so not sure as to when or why poor old San Dom was roped into the bizarre ritual. Marcello at the Agri had suggested that we spend some time at the museum in town which is mainly devoted to this annual event. Unfortunately, like much of Italy during this twilight period before the true season starts, it was closed. Maybe it will be open again the next day in time for it to close again for its lengthy siesta!
For once a lightish meal at the agri restaurant ( only 3 courses ! ) and in bed by 10.00 pm.
Gail moment of the day- During a walk near the River Sagittario we come across some people having a picnic lunch. Gail remarks that “ perhaps we could have a picnic here too, if only we had brought something to eat with us!”. Travel with NGI is never boring.
More tomorrow when we arrive in The Eternal City.
The Obese Ferret.
Breakfast very basic but quality locally baked bread, home-made jam and ricotta cheese are ideal after considerable gluttony at last agriturismo in Peschici.
Spend some time booking a hotel near the Trevi Fountain for our last 2 nights in Rome and then walk down to the nearby village of Asverna. This turns out to be a real surprise and larger than expected. After the obligatory coffee in the square we saunter round the historic centre of this beautifully kept village.
Shortly after our arrival on the previous day we had observed a small town sitting precariously atop a high ridge behind Asverna and assumed that this was the much-vaunted town of Scanno at an altitude of 1080 metres. We, therefore, set off in the car along yet another breathtaking mountain road with yours truly psyching himself up to tackle the switchbacks. Soon find out that this town is in fact called Castrovalva and Scanno is in fact some 15 kms to the south through the awesome Gola del Sagittario, a very deep gorge through which the Sagittario river runs. The river has been damned to form the Lago di Scanno further up the gorge and the road hugs the cliff face in another of the engineering feats which have become all too familiar to us in Italy.
Some kms up the gorge we see in the distance a beautiful hilltop town which we assume again is Scanno. Wrong again! This is Villalago and its unbelievable position high above the gorge surpasses anything we have seen before. We take a quick detour into this wonderful small town and we are rewarded with a torrential downpour which in no way diminishes our enthusiasm for this unheralded gem of a town.
Now the news you have all been waiting for- yes we do arrive at Scanno which has become a real tourist centre in recent years. Put on the map by the Photographer Cartier-Bresson during WW Two who was fascinated by the traditional dresses of the local ladies Scanno is now expanding at a rapid rate, with many Alpine-style hotels and apartments springing up. Sadly, the dresses seem to have become more of a feature in a bi-annual festival although one can still see some of the more elderly ladies in the traditional garb going about their daily business.
Another exhilarating drive takes us back to the Agri and we resist the temptation ( not very strong on my part ) to tackle the very daunting drive up to Castrovalva. Decide to visit the nearby town of Cocullo whose main claim to fame is its May Processione dei Serpari which involves some intrepid characters adorning the statue of San Domenico with jewels, banknotes and live snakes. The procession has pagan origins so not sure as to when or why poor old San Dom was roped into the bizarre ritual. Marcello at the Agri had suggested that we spend some time at the museum in town which is mainly devoted to this annual event. Unfortunately, like much of Italy during this twilight period before the true season starts, it was closed. Maybe it will be open again the next day in time for it to close again for its lengthy siesta!
For once a lightish meal at the agri restaurant ( only 3 courses ! ) and in bed by 10.00 pm.
Gail moment of the day- During a walk near the River Sagittario we come across some people having a picnic lunch. Gail remarks that “ perhaps we could have a picnic here too, if only we had brought something to eat with us!”. Travel with NGI is never boring.
More tomorrow when we arrive in The Eternal City.
The Obese Ferret.
1st June 2011 Peschici to Cocullo
As arranged the night before we have a chat with the two Kiwis, Martin and Lisa, after breakfast and try to give them some travel tips on the area. Next 90 minutes spent catching up on blogs but we leave La Chiusa at noon after a great stay at this high quality establishment. Say goodbye to Francesco, the owner, who often reminds us of Manuel from Fawlty Towers with his high octane activity, and his wife who kindly sends us off with a packed lunch of pizza slices and cherries.
Leaving Peschici we decide to take a minor road, staying as close as possible to the seafront. Reasonable chain of beaches but the whole area looks somewhat neglected. Maybe the arrival of the season proper will transform the various waterfront communities but we are not overly optimistic.
As we travel northeast towards Termoli the heavens open and this torrential rain continues until after we turn west at Pescara in the direction of the Abruzzo National Park. As we approach Sulmona, birthplace of the classical poet Ovid, the scenery becomes increasingly mountainous and the main Pescara to Rome road becomes an elevated freeway clinging to the edge of the mountain slope.
We arrive at our Agriturismo, La Porta dei Parchi, at about 4.00 pm and move into our basic but comfortable apartment. This is very much your back-to-basics agriturismo set against a backdrop of very rugged mountains and with a clear view to the hilltop town of Scanno at 1050 metres- a destination for the next day.
Basic but tasty dinner at the agriturismo restaurant, after which we are off to bed at 10.00, tired after a long and fairly demanding drive in foul weather for much of the journey.
The Obese Ferret
Leaving Peschici we decide to take a minor road, staying as close as possible to the seafront. Reasonable chain of beaches but the whole area looks somewhat neglected. Maybe the arrival of the season proper will transform the various waterfront communities but we are not overly optimistic.
As we travel northeast towards Termoli the heavens open and this torrential rain continues until after we turn west at Pescara in the direction of the Abruzzo National Park. As we approach Sulmona, birthplace of the classical poet Ovid, the scenery becomes increasingly mountainous and the main Pescara to Rome road becomes an elevated freeway clinging to the edge of the mountain slope.
We arrive at our Agriturismo, La Porta dei Parchi, at about 4.00 pm and move into our basic but comfortable apartment. This is very much your back-to-basics agriturismo set against a backdrop of very rugged mountains and with a clear view to the hilltop town of Scanno at 1050 metres- a destination for the next day.
Basic but tasty dinner at the agriturismo restaurant, after which we are off to bed at 10.00, tired after a long and fairly demanding drive in foul weather for much of the journey.
The Obese Ferret
31st May 2011 Vieste
Another sunny day so it’s off to the main tourist town of Gargano,Vieste, this time by the more major route 89.
Vieste shows all the signs of being another town not quite ready for the usual tourist onslaught and we struggle to find a cafe offering snacks and coffee. We steer clear of heavier lunches as we know the type of meals provided in the evening at La Chiusa.
Vieste, again with ‘Greek’ white buildings and quaint narrow streets, is at its best in the glorious sunshine and from the vantage point of the castle we are able to look down on many thousands more beach umbrellas and tables. The size of the carparks behind the beach gives an indication of the hordes who obviously invade the town during the summer.
One memorable monument in Vieste is the Pietra Amara ( Bitter Stone ) where 7000 local citizens were beheaded by the Turkish army. Leaving town with that sobering thought in mind we head south along the coast to superb bays such as La Testa di Gargano and Pugnochiuso ( closed fist ). Unfortunately, as with most bays along this coastline they have been taken over by large hotel groups and are no longer accessible to mere mortals such as ourselves. We did, however, find a small pebbly beach at Cala di Pergola which had escaped the notice of the corporate world and was far from the madding crowd.
Dinner back at La Chiusa where we meet up with New Zealand couple who ask if they can pick our brains on the area at breakfast next morning. Delighted to oblige as these are first people we have met for some time who recognize that we have any brains.
Gailism of the day- while driving along late in the day Gail says “ May I turn off the air-conditioning, Oh,I just have!” That’s what I call a consensus-style decision-making!
The Obese Ferret
Vieste shows all the signs of being another town not quite ready for the usual tourist onslaught and we struggle to find a cafe offering snacks and coffee. We steer clear of heavier lunches as we know the type of meals provided in the evening at La Chiusa.
Vieste, again with ‘Greek’ white buildings and quaint narrow streets, is at its best in the glorious sunshine and from the vantage point of the castle we are able to look down on many thousands more beach umbrellas and tables. The size of the carparks behind the beach gives an indication of the hordes who obviously invade the town during the summer.
One memorable monument in Vieste is the Pietra Amara ( Bitter Stone ) where 7000 local citizens were beheaded by the Turkish army. Leaving town with that sobering thought in mind we head south along the coast to superb bays such as La Testa di Gargano and Pugnochiuso ( closed fist ). Unfortunately, as with most bays along this coastline they have been taken over by large hotel groups and are no longer accessible to mere mortals such as ourselves. We did, however, find a small pebbly beach at Cala di Pergola which had escaped the notice of the corporate world and was far from the madding crowd.
Dinner back at La Chiusa where we meet up with New Zealand couple who ask if they can pick our brains on the area at breakfast next morning. Delighted to oblige as these are first people we have met for some time who recognize that we have any brains.
Gailism of the day- while driving along late in the day Gail says “ May I turn off the air-conditioning, Oh,I just have!” That’s what I call a consensus-style decision-making!
The Obese Ferret
Monday 30th May 2011-Agriturismo La Chiusa delle More
Superb breakfast on a beautiful sunny day. Set off to walk along Peschici beach to the small port area and then climb steps up to the delightful historic town centre. As always the beach is covered with the ubiquitous beach umbrellas and tables but by Italian standards it is one of the better beaches. The town itself, with its white buildings, is more reminiscent of those on the Greek islands and we still have the feeling that most small business people are still in preparation mode before the true season starts in mid-June.
Stop at cafe for gelati and coffee and meet up with Bernd and Leanne who had followed the same route as ourselves up to Peschici after the previous day nearly killing themselves by taking the longer walk along the road into the hilltop town. The son of the owner of the cafe, proudly brings out some free samples of his mamma’s biscotti for us to try and later presents said mamma to the public assembled in the outside eating area. Maybe he is one of the ‘Mammoni’ ( mummy’s boys who stay at home well after they have left their teenage years behind or even constantly return home after they are married ). This trend is apparently on the increase in Italy.
Decide to take an afternoon drive through the Forestra Umbra( Shady Forest) and then proceed to Monte Sant’Angelo where St Michael the Archangel is supposed, in AD490,to have appeared before the Bishop of Siponto. The Sanctuario di San Michele, set in a mountain town which overlooks the south coast of the Gargano is now a tourist magnet for many. Whilst it is something a mini Lourdes there is no disputing the splendour of the church carved out in a huge grotto.
The tomb of the other target of religious devotion, Padre Pio, the world’s most marketed monk as per the Lonely Planet, is to be found at San Giovanni Rotondo, some 20 kms to the east of Monte Sant’Angelo. We decided that one pilgrimage was enough and had to satisfy ourselves with seeing ‘Pizza al Taglio Padre Pio’ ( Padre Pio Pizza by the slice ). Who said Italians don’t have a sense of style and history!
The drive back down to the coast from Monte Sant’Angelo is breathtaking and the subsequent drive along the coast back to Peschici ( not all of it intentional as we fell prey at one point to Italy’s idiosyncratic road signs.) takes us along some spectacular coastal scenery.
After consecutive days driving on such windy roads my artificial is feeling and looking a bit the worse for wear but another lovely meal back at La Chiusa in the company of Bernd and Leanne soon puts matters right.
The Obese Ferret
Stop at cafe for gelati and coffee and meet up with Bernd and Leanne who had followed the same route as ourselves up to Peschici after the previous day nearly killing themselves by taking the longer walk along the road into the hilltop town. The son of the owner of the cafe, proudly brings out some free samples of his mamma’s biscotti for us to try and later presents said mamma to the public assembled in the outside eating area. Maybe he is one of the ‘Mammoni’ ( mummy’s boys who stay at home well after they have left their teenage years behind or even constantly return home after they are married ). This trend is apparently on the increase in Italy.
Decide to take an afternoon drive through the Forestra Umbra( Shady Forest) and then proceed to Monte Sant’Angelo where St Michael the Archangel is supposed, in AD490,to have appeared before the Bishop of Siponto. The Sanctuario di San Michele, set in a mountain town which overlooks the south coast of the Gargano is now a tourist magnet for many. Whilst it is something a mini Lourdes there is no disputing the splendour of the church carved out in a huge grotto.
The tomb of the other target of religious devotion, Padre Pio, the world’s most marketed monk as per the Lonely Planet, is to be found at San Giovanni Rotondo, some 20 kms to the east of Monte Sant’Angelo. We decided that one pilgrimage was enough and had to satisfy ourselves with seeing ‘Pizza al Taglio Padre Pio’ ( Padre Pio Pizza by the slice ). Who said Italians don’t have a sense of style and history!
The drive back down to the coast from Monte Sant’Angelo is breathtaking and the subsequent drive along the coast back to Peschici ( not all of it intentional as we fell prey at one point to Italy’s idiosyncratic road signs.) takes us along some spectacular coastal scenery.
After consecutive days driving on such windy roads my artificial is feeling and looking a bit the worse for wear but another lovely meal back at La Chiusa in the company of Bernd and Leanne soon puts matters right.
The Obese Ferret
Wednesday, June 1, 2011
Sunday 29th May 2011 Montecassino to Peschini
Ordinary breakfast then head northeast towards the Adriatic.
Scenery fairly grand but not on a par with other areas that we have seen in Italy. Arrival at the Adriatic is very disappointing and the port town of Termoli is seemingly closed for the day. However, we do manage to find a bar near the train station for a panino and drink.
The coastal strip from Termoli to Peschici is flat, boring and not a very good advertisement for the Adriatic.
Things take a real turn for the better as we approach the Promontorio di Gargano and we start to appreciate why this part of the world is regarded as one of Italy's finest areas.
Arrive at Agriturismo La Chiusa dell More ( The Enclosure of the Blackberries ) which is situated a short distance from the beach and turns out to be by far the most up-market agri we have stayed at during our trip. A property set amongst olive groves, superb rooms, a very genial host Francesco and as we later find out the most fantastic cuisine.
After long day decide to book dinner at the agri and the 4 course meal, cooked by Francesco's wife is an absolute delight. Meet up with a German couple, Bernd and Leanne from Berlin spend an enjoyable and entertaining 2 hours before heading off to be somewhat bloated but content.
The Obese Ferret
Scenery fairly grand but not on a par with other areas that we have seen in Italy. Arrival at the Adriatic is very disappointing and the port town of Termoli is seemingly closed for the day. However, we do manage to find a bar near the train station for a panino and drink.
The coastal strip from Termoli to Peschici is flat, boring and not a very good advertisement for the Adriatic.
Things take a real turn for the better as we approach the Promontorio di Gargano and we start to appreciate why this part of the world is regarded as one of Italy's finest areas.
Arrive at Agriturismo La Chiusa dell More ( The Enclosure of the Blackberries ) which is situated a short distance from the beach and turns out to be by far the most up-market agri we have stayed at during our trip. A property set amongst olive groves, superb rooms, a very genial host Francesco and as we later find out the most fantastic cuisine.
After long day decide to book dinner at the agri and the 4 course meal, cooked by Francesco's wife is an absolute delight. Meet up with a German couple, Bernd and Leanne from Berlin spend an enjoyable and entertaining 2 hours before heading off to be somewhat bloated but content.
The Obese Ferret
Saturday 28th May Barberino to Cassino
Up early to see Mike and Gay Fuller leave at 7.30 am exactly. ( Gay is very punctual and manages to get a semi-comatose Mike into the car on time )
After breakfast we say cheerio to Cath and Ian, George and Di and Mick,Frances and Bridie, all of whom are taking the bus to Florence before onward journeys to various parts of Italy.
One last walk up to the Sports Bar for a coffee with the Fuller family and then head off south towards Rome after what has been a great week catching up with friends at a wonderful location. We could not have asked for more from the week at Barberino in Chianti and hats off to Chris and Ernie for all of their hard work in ensuring a good time was had by all.
Take Autostrada south past Rome, stopping only once along the way for a power nap as we are both feeling fairly tired.
Arrive at Cassino and book into La Selva Agriturismo which is an authentic agriturismo , complete with a very old nonna, donkeys, sheep, a peacock and roosters. Somewhat alarmed when we see a banner with 'Tanti Auguri Giuseppe' on it and tables being set out for a festa. We are starting to envisage a sleepless night with festivities going on till the early hours of the morning. However, sitting in the adjacent restaurant, we discover that Giuseppe is in fact celebrating his first birthday and by 8.00 pm all the guests are leaving!
Watch the Europeans League Final with Barcelona winning 3-1 over Man U and providing further evidence that they are the best club side in the world at present. Even well-known Man U fans, Alex Ferguson and Ian Smith acknowledge their superiority on the night.
La Selva is hardly a luxury establishment but it is in a spectacular setting under the mountain on which is perched the remarkable Abbazzia di Montecassino. This can be reached by driving up a switchback road but I have by now reverted to a vertigo wimp so decide to give this a miss.
In bed fairly early to the sound of the donkeys neighing in the pen outside our rather modest little cabin.
The Obese Ferret
After breakfast we say cheerio to Cath and Ian, George and Di and Mick,Frances and Bridie, all of whom are taking the bus to Florence before onward journeys to various parts of Italy.
One last walk up to the Sports Bar for a coffee with the Fuller family and then head off south towards Rome after what has been a great week catching up with friends at a wonderful location. We could not have asked for more from the week at Barberino in Chianti and hats off to Chris and Ernie for all of their hard work in ensuring a good time was had by all.
Take Autostrada south past Rome, stopping only once along the way for a power nap as we are both feeling fairly tired.
Arrive at Cassino and book into La Selva Agriturismo which is an authentic agriturismo , complete with a very old nonna, donkeys, sheep, a peacock and roosters. Somewhat alarmed when we see a banner with 'Tanti Auguri Giuseppe' on it and tables being set out for a festa. We are starting to envisage a sleepless night with festivities going on till the early hours of the morning. However, sitting in the adjacent restaurant, we discover that Giuseppe is in fact celebrating his first birthday and by 8.00 pm all the guests are leaving!
Watch the Europeans League Final with Barcelona winning 3-1 over Man U and providing further evidence that they are the best club side in the world at present. Even well-known Man U fans, Alex Ferguson and Ian Smith acknowledge their superiority on the night.
La Selva is hardly a luxury establishment but it is in a spectacular setting under the mountain on which is perched the remarkable Abbazzia di Montecassino. This can be reached by driving up a switchback road but I have by now reverted to a vertigo wimp so decide to give this a miss.
In bed fairly early to the sound of the donkeys neighing in the pen outside our rather modest little cabin.
The Obese Ferret
Friday 27th May 2011 Barberino
Craig's 35th birthday! Makes us both feel old.
Usual coffee at Sports Bar and then back to house for lunch, accompanied by too much alcohol.
Weather starts to cool down and the wind gets up a little, casting some doubt on our decision for the whole group to eat outdoors at a restaurant in Barberino. I walk up to town to discuss the situation with the owner who I had hoped might have some local knowledge on the weather patterns. Sadly he appeared to have had a customer service by-pass operation and offers no guidance whatsoever. He simply says " it's your decision" to which I was tempted to respond by saying " yes it is and we have decided to eat somewhere else!". Eventually decide to stick to our original plan to dine on terrace overlooking valley.
Return to house to phone Craig with birthday greetings but he is a bit tied up at some function ( maybe a pub). Craig phones back later but is seemingly by now too inebriated to have a long discussion with the oldies but it is good to catch up with the young man on his 35th.
Set off up to the town for dinner ,with some trepidation after the performance of mine host earlier in the day. In the event, a very enjoyable meal was had by all the proprietor is on his very best behaviour. It's amazing what the prospect of a very healthy financial return will do to one's humour. Andrew and David Fuller share a huge T-bone which is apparently beautifully cooked.
Back at the house most guests are off to bed early as they all leave at the crack of dawn next morning. However, a few hardy souls share some Limoncino which we had bought in Montefalco a week earlier.
Pack our bags and get to bed, ready for departure next morning.
The Obese Ferret
Usual coffee at Sports Bar and then back to house for lunch, accompanied by too much alcohol.
Weather starts to cool down and the wind gets up a little, casting some doubt on our decision for the whole group to eat outdoors at a restaurant in Barberino. I walk up to town to discuss the situation with the owner who I had hoped might have some local knowledge on the weather patterns. Sadly he appeared to have had a customer service by-pass operation and offers no guidance whatsoever. He simply says " it's your decision" to which I was tempted to respond by saying " yes it is and we have decided to eat somewhere else!". Eventually decide to stick to our original plan to dine on terrace overlooking valley.
Return to house to phone Craig with birthday greetings but he is a bit tied up at some function ( maybe a pub). Craig phones back later but is seemingly by now too inebriated to have a long discussion with the oldies but it is good to catch up with the young man on his 35th.
Set off up to the town for dinner ,with some trepidation after the performance of mine host earlier in the day. In the event, a very enjoyable meal was had by all the proprietor is on his very best behaviour. It's amazing what the prospect of a very healthy financial return will do to one's humour. Andrew and David Fuller share a huge T-bone which is apparently beautifully cooked.
Back at the house most guests are off to bed early as they all leave at the crack of dawn next morning. However, a few hardy souls share some Limoncino which we had bought in Montefalco a week earlier.
Pack our bags and get to bed, ready for departure next morning.
The Obese Ferret
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