Up reasonably early after a decidedly cold sleepless night on hard bunk beds but the pain eased by the glorious sight of the cliffs in the early morning light.
After breakfast, off to a floating village where we each pay $5 for a 30 minute boat trip round the rocks. Something of a rip-off as many people work for $1 a day but the scenery magnificent and it all benefits the local people ( and we suspect our tour guide!). The water in some areas was quite disgusting and merely confirmed what Craig had reported to us the evening before.
Back to Halong Harbour for a good lunch and then the long drive back to Hanoi.
Dinner at very good upmarket seafood restaurant, found by Craig, on the last evening before he flies back to Melbourne.
Receive more news on the Ashes so go to sleep safe in the knowledge that I will be receiving some more messages from nephew Andy in the UK.
Book a trip to Sa Pa in the mountains.
The Obese Ferret.
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Halong Bay on 27th December.
Leave from hotel at 8.oo pm for drive to the world-famous Halong Bay.
3and a half hour drive in very uncomfortable bus through a sadly very polluted industrial area. The air quality is truly appalling.
Air clears slightly as we catch the first sight of the iconic limestone rocks and cliffs out in the bay.
Once off the bus we are sheperded away from our fellow bus passengers as we are apparently on a superior cruise( never like to mix with hoi polloi !).
The Dolphin Cruise junk is very well appointed although there is some problem with the toilet and our fellow passengers come from various parts of the globe, including France, India, Russia and the UK. Fortunately, the two girls from the UK are not cricket fans as Aus have imploded at the MCG.
Arrive on board junk in time for very nice lunch, after which we proceed to the heart of the rock formations in Halong Bay. The bay exceeds all our expectations and we enjoy spectacular views of the limestone cliffs from the vantage of a very impressive cave high up on one of the peaks.
Around 5.00 pm we all venture out on a kayaking trip in the bay, hugely enjoyable even if a rather wet experience.
Craig is the last to get back to the junk ( he has a reputation to live down to ) with darkness falling. He then regales us with a report on his kayaking experience which apparently included paddling through raw sewerage! Given his experience as a water engineer we have to assume he recognises a load of sh.t when he sees it!
Good dinner back on board follwoed by passable attempts by the crew to do some kareoke and some truly pathetic offerings from the passengers. Our cause was not helped by the fact that the songs were in such a high key that even the castrati among the group were having some real problems.
Off to bed at 10.30.
The Obese Ferret
3and a half hour drive in very uncomfortable bus through a sadly very polluted industrial area. The air quality is truly appalling.
Air clears slightly as we catch the first sight of the iconic limestone rocks and cliffs out in the bay.
Once off the bus we are sheperded away from our fellow bus passengers as we are apparently on a superior cruise( never like to mix with hoi polloi !).
The Dolphin Cruise junk is very well appointed although there is some problem with the toilet and our fellow passengers come from various parts of the globe, including France, India, Russia and the UK. Fortunately, the two girls from the UK are not cricket fans as Aus have imploded at the MCG.
Arrive on board junk in time for very nice lunch, after which we proceed to the heart of the rock formations in Halong Bay. The bay exceeds all our expectations and we enjoy spectacular views of the limestone cliffs from the vantage of a very impressive cave high up on one of the peaks.
Around 5.00 pm we all venture out on a kayaking trip in the bay, hugely enjoyable even if a rather wet experience.
Craig is the last to get back to the junk ( he has a reputation to live down to ) with darkness falling. He then regales us with a report on his kayaking experience which apparently included paddling through raw sewerage! Given his experience as a water engineer we have to assume he recognises a load of sh.t when he sees it!
Good dinner back on board follwoed by passable attempts by the crew to do some kareoke and some truly pathetic offerings from the passengers. Our cause was not helped by the fact that the songs were in such a high key that even the castrati among the group were having some real problems.
Off to bed at 10.30.
The Obese Ferret
Hue on 26th December
Wake up to a filthy day in the former Imperial City but nevertheless head off on a walking tour, first taking in the walled Imperial City.
After quick look at the inside of the citadel we come to the conclusion that, in the absence of any information in English we really need a tour guide. Discover that all guides had gone off for lunch ( that's public servants for you!) but we manage to tag onto a guide hired by a family from Perth.
It turns out that the guide, Mr Tong, had worked as an interpreter for both the Aussie and USA forces during the war and unsurprisingly was victimised by the North Vietnamese Gov't.
In any event he was a superb guide who refused the money which we offered to him. ( we solved this by giving the money to the Perth couple for them to hand over to him later)
After the Citadel Craig decides to spend more time looking round the Imperial City while Mr Tong takes uds off to the Temple and Tomb of Tu Duc who had 104 concubines but failed to produce an heir! All that effort for nothing!
We all eventually arrive back at the hotel totally drenched but dry off enough by the time we set off for the airport.
Wealthy still terrible and we are informed at the airport that the 7.10 pm flight has been cancelled due to bad weather. Suspect that Vietnamese Airlines have combined two flights and we duly take off at 10.00 pm.
Slightlly bumpy flight to Hanoi, arriving at 11.30 pm
Long drive to hotel which is perfectly situated in the old part of the city. Very friendly staff and comfortable if small rooms.
The Obese Ferret
y
After quick look at the inside of the citadel we come to the conclusion that, in the absence of any information in English we really need a tour guide. Discover that all guides had gone off for lunch ( that's public servants for you!) but we manage to tag onto a guide hired by a family from Perth.
It turns out that the guide, Mr Tong, had worked as an interpreter for both the Aussie and USA forces during the war and unsurprisingly was victimised by the North Vietnamese Gov't.
In any event he was a superb guide who refused the money which we offered to him. ( we solved this by giving the money to the Perth couple for them to hand over to him later)
After the Citadel Craig decides to spend more time looking round the Imperial City while Mr Tong takes uds off to the Temple and Tomb of Tu Duc who had 104 concubines but failed to produce an heir! All that effort for nothing!
We all eventually arrive back at the hotel totally drenched but dry off enough by the time we set off for the airport.
Wealthy still terrible and we are informed at the airport that the 7.10 pm flight has been cancelled due to bad weather. Suspect that Vietnamese Airlines have combined two flights and we duly take off at 10.00 pm.
Slightlly bumpy flight to Hanoi, arriving at 11.30 pm
Long drive to hotel which is perfectly situated in the old part of the city. Very friendly staff and comfortable if small rooms.
The Obese Ferret
y
My Son and bus trip from Hoi An to Hue on Christmas Day
Picked up from hotel at 8.00 am for trip to the Unesco Heritage-listed site of My Son, location for My Son Champa Temples.
The Champa temples were built between the 7th and 13th century and there were originally 70 in number before the Viet Cong based themselves there in the 1960's.
Only 20 temples, in varying states of restoration, now remain, courtesy of the pounding from USA B52 bombers. Craters around the site bear testimony to this episode.
The drive though the lushly wooded hills to My Son certainly made a welcome change from the congestion of the cities.
Arrive back in Hoi An to catch 2.00 pm bus to Hue. Uneventful trip north ,especially since the previously spectacular road over the Hai Van Pass has been replaced by a more practical tunnel through the Truong Son Range.
Reach Hue late afternoon and decide to have meal at L'Auberge restaurant and have early night after long, fairly tiring day.
The Obese Ferret.
The Champa temples were built between the 7th and 13th century and there were originally 70 in number before the Viet Cong based themselves there in the 1960's.
Only 20 temples, in varying states of restoration, now remain, courtesy of the pounding from USA B52 bombers. Craters around the site bear testimony to this episode.
The drive though the lushly wooded hills to My Son certainly made a welcome change from the congestion of the cities.
Arrive back in Hoi An to catch 2.00 pm bus to Hue. Uneventful trip north ,especially since the previously spectacular road over the Hai Van Pass has been replaced by a more practical tunnel through the Truong Son Range.
Reach Hue late afternoon and decide to have meal at L'Auberge restaurant and have early night after long, fairly tiring day.
The Obese Ferret.
Arrival in Hoi An on 24th December
Hoi An a lovely city which lives up to all of the hype in the travel guides and the reports from friends who had visited the area earlier.
Checked into surprisingly upmarket Golf Hotel walk into the centre to get our bearings.
Craig soon picks up the vibes that the first priority of his oldies is to check out the local tailors who have gained a real reputation for makng up garments in a very short space of time. He therefore heads off on his own for more interesting pursuits.
We eventually find Yally's which seems to be one of the more reputable tailors, place our order at 3.00pm, have a first fitting at 6.00 and walk out with our garments at 7.00 pm ( blazer for me and pants for Gail)
Meet up with Craig early evening and after experiencing a magical sunset over one of the bridges we have very pleasant Christmas Eve dinner overlooking the river.
Back to hotel for relatively early night as off next day to My Son.
The Obese Ferret.
Checked into surprisingly upmarket Golf Hotel walk into the centre to get our bearings.
Craig soon picks up the vibes that the first priority of his oldies is to check out the local tailors who have gained a real reputation for makng up garments in a very short space of time. He therefore heads off on his own for more interesting pursuits.
We eventually find Yally's which seems to be one of the more reputable tailors, place our order at 3.00pm, have a first fitting at 6.00 and walk out with our garments at 7.00 pm ( blazer for me and pants for Gail)
Meet up with Craig early evening and after experiencing a magical sunset over one of the bridges we have very pleasant Christmas Eve dinner overlooking the river.
Back to hotel for relatively early night as off next day to My Son.
The Obese Ferret.
Sunday, December 26, 2010
Nui Ba Den
Now at Hue Airport using Craig's IPad which does not have a mind of its own and will hopefully reproduce my words faithfully rather than in Vietnamenglish.
Following visit to Cu Chi Tunnels on morning of Tuesday 21st Dec we headed off to Nui Ba Den, a mountain which rises from the surrounding plain up to almost 1000 metros. Legend has it that a certain Ly Thi Thong,who, while her lover was fighting occupying forces, was ordered to marry the son of a local mandarin. Rather than comply she threw herself off the mountain. It took the efforts of both Craig and myself to prevent Gail from following her example although it has taken her 36 years to realize the injustice of being forced into a marriage with me!
The mountain was also the scene of fierce battles between the French, Americans and the Viet Minh.
Evening meal at the restaurant of a guy called Huy who had lived for some time in Brisbane, followed by a return visit to our friendly travel agent Duong who finalized more plans for the rest of the week.
The Obese Ferret.
Wednesday 22nd Dec.
Set off at 8.30 am on an Open Tour Bus for a 2 day tour of the Mekong Delta. Open Tour buses offer basic travel ( the cost of our tour including an overnight stay in Can Tho was $24 each ).
We had taken the decision to go with a larger party rather than with a personal guide as a) we wanted to enjoy some interaction with fellow travelers and b) there is always a risk that the guide will speak such poor English his/her commentary becomes meaningless.
First stop on the trip was My Tho on one of the many tributaries of the Mekong and from here we took a boat trip over to the Island of the Coconut Monk, otherwise known as Phoenix Island , where we amongst other things we watched coconut candy being made, had a decidedly large python draped our around our neck, drank snake wine, sampled lemon tea, honey and tropical fruit. Gail being a snakeophobic ( if such a word exists ) declined the python and the snake wine.
We all took up the offer of 5 packs of candy to get 1 free only to find later that they didn't suit Craig's sensitive stomach. The result- I ended up with about 3 kgs extra weight in my bag and enough candy to last us through 2011.
Continue on bus to Can Tho, the centre of the Mekong Delta, after good meal at restaurant river spend night at very basic hotel ( what did you expect for a $24 trip all-inclusive! )
The Obese Ferret.
Thursday 23rd December.
6.30 start and straight onto boat to an on-shore market. This followed by a truly fascinating visit to the Floating Market where the owners of boats peddled their wares of fruit and vegetables while gawping idiots such as ourselves made our way past their primitive vessels.
It was food for thought that these people lived on these boats, as evidenced by the washing hanging on the lines alongside the veggies etc.
Later visited an area to see noodles being made and walked through a tropical fruit area.
Lunch back near hotel and then long bumpy trip back to Saigon.
Evening snack at Allez Boo which apparently is one of the 'in' places to go ( and prices to match).
Late night 1 hour flight to Danang.
All in all a day which highlighted the incredible energy and industry of the Vietnamese people. Whilst many live in what we would regard as primitive conditions they appear to have a fierce determination to improve their lot in sharp contrast to other so-called third world countries that we have visited.
The Obese Ferret.
Friday 24th December.
An early morning stroll along the river, followed by a visit to a very interesting Champa Museum showed Danang to be a pleasant surprise and a town which was done a disservice by our Footprints Guide book.
Decide to book a taxi to take us from Danang to Hoi An calling in at the 30 mile China Beach ( a favorite of GI's during the war ) and two magnificent sports stadia which from a distance appear to be state-of-the-art.
China Beach is being developed at a rate of knots and with its golden sand and surf has the potential to become a real tourist magnet. Certainly, golfers Greg Norman and Colin Montgomerie have caught onto this as they have given their names to golf estates with Norman in particular featured on posters galore.
Moreover the beach is surrounded by mountains to the north and south which only add to its development potential.
It could even become another Surfers' Paradise if they get everything wrong!
The approach to Hoi An gave us a real 'Gailism' which have become part of the Ireland family folklore. Asked by the taxi driver to confirm the name of our hotel in Hoi An, Gail on trying to find the name on a voucher ( held in the front seat by Craig ) said with her usual confidence that she could see the name it was' Book Ing', only to realise that she was reading ' booking confirmed'!. We have since realized that the hotel is part of a very large chain as there appear to be Book Ing offices everywhere! Even the taxi driver, with his limited knowledge of English laughed.
Following visit to Cu Chi Tunnels on morning of Tuesday 21st Dec we headed off to Nui Ba Den, a mountain which rises from the surrounding plain up to almost 1000 metros. Legend has it that a certain Ly Thi Thong,who, while her lover was fighting occupying forces, was ordered to marry the son of a local mandarin. Rather than comply she threw herself off the mountain. It took the efforts of both Craig and myself to prevent Gail from following her example although it has taken her 36 years to realize the injustice of being forced into a marriage with me!
The mountain was also the scene of fierce battles between the French, Americans and the Viet Minh.
Evening meal at the restaurant of a guy called Huy who had lived for some time in Brisbane, followed by a return visit to our friendly travel agent Duong who finalized more plans for the rest of the week.
The Obese Ferret.
Wednesday 22nd Dec.
Set off at 8.30 am on an Open Tour Bus for a 2 day tour of the Mekong Delta. Open Tour buses offer basic travel ( the cost of our tour including an overnight stay in Can Tho was $24 each ).
We had taken the decision to go with a larger party rather than with a personal guide as a) we wanted to enjoy some interaction with fellow travelers and b) there is always a risk that the guide will speak such poor English his/her commentary becomes meaningless.
First stop on the trip was My Tho on one of the many tributaries of the Mekong and from here we took a boat trip over to the Island of the Coconut Monk, otherwise known as Phoenix Island , where we amongst other things we watched coconut candy being made, had a decidedly large python draped our around our neck, drank snake wine, sampled lemon tea, honey and tropical fruit. Gail being a snakeophobic ( if such a word exists ) declined the python and the snake wine.
We all took up the offer of 5 packs of candy to get 1 free only to find later that they didn't suit Craig's sensitive stomach. The result- I ended up with about 3 kgs extra weight in my bag and enough candy to last us through 2011.
Continue on bus to Can Tho, the centre of the Mekong Delta, after good meal at restaurant river spend night at very basic hotel ( what did you expect for a $24 trip all-inclusive! )
The Obese Ferret.
Thursday 23rd December.
6.30 start and straight onto boat to an on-shore market. This followed by a truly fascinating visit to the Floating Market where the owners of boats peddled their wares of fruit and vegetables while gawping idiots such as ourselves made our way past their primitive vessels.
It was food for thought that these people lived on these boats, as evidenced by the washing hanging on the lines alongside the veggies etc.
Later visited an area to see noodles being made and walked through a tropical fruit area.
Lunch back near hotel and then long bumpy trip back to Saigon.
Evening snack at Allez Boo which apparently is one of the 'in' places to go ( and prices to match).
Late night 1 hour flight to Danang.
All in all a day which highlighted the incredible energy and industry of the Vietnamese people. Whilst many live in what we would regard as primitive conditions they appear to have a fierce determination to improve their lot in sharp contrast to other so-called third world countries that we have visited.
The Obese Ferret.
Friday 24th December.
An early morning stroll along the river, followed by a visit to a very interesting Champa Museum showed Danang to be a pleasant surprise and a town which was done a disservice by our Footprints Guide book.
Decide to book a taxi to take us from Danang to Hoi An calling in at the 30 mile China Beach ( a favorite of GI's during the war ) and two magnificent sports stadia which from a distance appear to be state-of-the-art.
China Beach is being developed at a rate of knots and with its golden sand and surf has the potential to become a real tourist magnet. Certainly, golfers Greg Norman and Colin Montgomerie have caught onto this as they have given their names to golf estates with Norman in particular featured on posters galore.
Moreover the beach is surrounded by mountains to the north and south which only add to its development potential.
It could even become another Surfers' Paradise if they get everything wrong!
The approach to Hoi An gave us a real 'Gailism' which have become part of the Ireland family folklore. Asked by the taxi driver to confirm the name of our hotel in Hoi An, Gail on trying to find the name on a voucher ( held in the front seat by Craig ) said with her usual confidence that she could see the name it was' Book Ing', only to realise that she was reading ' booking confirmed'!. We have since realized that the hotel is part of a very large chain as there appear to be Book Ing offices everywhere! Even the taxi driver, with his limited knowledge of English laughed.
Location:Hue Airport
Cu Chi Tunnels and Black Lady Mountain
Met by guide and driver at 8.00 am to travel northeast ò Saigon in mini bus, first to Cu Chi Tunnels and later to Nui Ba Den ( Black Lady Mountain ). The Vietcong built 250 kms ò tunnels during the war to infiltrate the south, carry our subversive action against the USA troops and plan the Tet offensive in 1968. The original tunnels were too narrow for fat westerners so just over 100 metres have been widened for tourists, The experience is still a claustrophobic for many and it's truly amazing how the VC survived for months dơưn there for months at a time. Crawling on all fours a great test for the titanium knee!
Another comfirmation ò the brutality of the war,if such were needed came in the array of booby traps which were set up to greet any unsuspecting enemy soldiers.
The afternoon offered a far less confronting experience in the form of a visit to Nui Ba Den.
More later as the keyboard in this hotel, which keeps trying to write in Vietnamese letters í driving me nuts.
The Obese Ferret,
Another comfirmation ò the brutality of the war,if such were needed came in the array of booby traps which were set up to greet any unsuspecting enemy soldiers.
The afternoon offered a far less confronting experience in the form of a visit to Nui Ba Den.
More later as the keyboard in this hotel, which keeps trying to write in Vietnamese letters í driving me nuts.
The Obese Ferret,
Saigon continued.
Plans for the following 3 days sorted with travel agent so go on quick tour of city,visiting the Reunification Palace, famous as the scene of a North Vietnamese tank bursting through the gates to finally take over the Gov't of South Vietnam. On to the War Remnants Museum where the brutality and futility ò the Vietnam war is all too graphically shown, albeit with an understandably anti- USA slant.
Good meal at travel agent-recommended restaurant and off to bed for early start the next day,still marvelling at the ability òf the motorbike riders to survive another day!
The Obese Ferret.
Good meal at travel agent-recommended restaurant and off to bed for early start the next day,still marvelling at the ability òf the motorbike riders to survive another day!
The Obese Ferret.
Thursday, December 23, 2010
Good Morning Vietnam 2
Arrived in Vietnam with a bang,literally! I had been warned about pickpockets and muggers but never expected the first assault to take place before I had left the aircraft. A passenger in the seat in front of me dropped a rather heavy computer case on my admittedly fairly large nose while taking it out of the overhead locker, sending my specs flying and leaving me with a nice cut on the bridge of my snozzle.
After first aid from the cabin crew and a check by an airport doctor I was able to take a cab to the centre of Saigon and Gail and I were able to meet up with Craig.
Saigon has a population of 9 million people and apparently 10 million scooters and motor bikes! Chaos reigns.
After checking in at very comfortable hotel headed off with Craig to visit the Reunification Palace and later the War Remnants Museum, the latter a very confronting reminder of the brutalities of the Vietnam War, albeit from a decidedly anti-American standpoint.
Good meal at restaurant recommended to us by local travel agent, followed to a second visit to said travel agent to make arrangements for the following days.
A slightly wounded Obese Ferret.
After first aid from the cabin crew and a check by an airport doctor I was able to take a cab to the centre of Saigon and Gail and I were able to meet up with Craig.
Saigon has a population of 9 million people and apparently 10 million scooters and motor bikes! Chaos reigns.
After checking in at very comfortable hotel headed off with Craig to visit the Reunification Palace and later the War Remnants Museum, the latter a very confronting reminder of the brutalities of the Vietnam War, albeit from a decidedly anti-American standpoint.
Good meal at restaurant recommended to us by local travel agent, followed to a second visit to said travel agent to make arrangements for the following days.
A slightly wounded Obese Ferret.
Location:Arrival Loop,,Vietnam
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
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