Friday, June 3, 2011

Monday 30th May 2011-Agriturismo La Chiusa delle More

Superb breakfast on a beautiful sunny day. Set off to walk along Peschici beach to the small port area and then climb steps up to the delightful historic town centre. As always the beach is covered with the ubiquitous beach umbrellas and tables but by Italian standards it is one of the better beaches. The town itself, with its white buildings, is more reminiscent of those on the Greek islands and we still have the feeling that most small business people are still in preparation mode before the true season starts in mid-June.

Stop at cafe for gelati and coffee and meet up with Bernd and Leanne who had followed the same route as ourselves up to Peschici after the previous day nearly killing themselves by taking the longer walk along the road into the hilltop town. The son of the owner of the cafe, proudly brings out some free samples of his mamma’s biscotti for us to try and later presents said mamma to the public assembled in the outside eating area. Maybe he is one of the ‘Mammoni’ ( mummy’s boys who stay at home well after they have left their teenage years behind or even constantly return home after they are married ). This trend is apparently on the increase in Italy.

Decide to take an afternoon drive through the Forestra Umbra( Shady Forest) and then proceed to Monte Sant’Angelo where St Michael the Archangel is supposed, in AD490,to have appeared before the Bishop of Siponto. The Sanctuario di San Michele, set in a mountain town which overlooks the south coast of the Gargano is now a tourist magnet for many. Whilst it is something a mini Lourdes there is no disputing the splendour of the church carved out in a huge grotto.

The tomb of the other target of religious devotion, Padre Pio, the world’s most marketed monk as per the Lonely Planet, is to be found at San Giovanni Rotondo, some 20 kms to the east of Monte Sant’Angelo. We decided that one pilgrimage was enough and had to satisfy ourselves with seeing ‘Pizza al Taglio Padre Pio’ ( Padre Pio Pizza by the slice ). Who said Italians don’t have a sense of style and history!

The drive back down to the coast from Monte Sant’Angelo is breathtaking and the subsequent drive along the coast back to Peschici ( not all of it intentional as we fell prey at one point to Italy’s idiosyncratic road signs.) takes us along some spectacular coastal scenery.

After consecutive days driving on such windy roads my artificial is feeling and looking a bit the worse for wear but another lovely meal back at La Chiusa in the company of Bernd and Leanne soon puts matters right.

The Obese Ferret

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