Hanoi 29th Dec( cont )

Hanoi nowhere near as frenetic as Ho Chi Minh City and it has retained much of its traditional architecture. The French Quarter in particular is a delight.
We stroll Hoam Kiem Lake and have a snack at the Paris Deli near to St. Josephs Cathedral. Generally try to soak up the atmosphere before returning to Paris Deli for dinner.
Off to the station to catch the 20.35 train from Hanoi to Lao Cai. We have booked a Deluxe cabin ( 4 berth ) and find ourselves sharing with 2 New Zealanders who have only paid for a standard 4 berth cabin, much to Mrs Ireland's displeasure. However, they are a very nice young couple and the 9 hours overnight trip is as comfortable as it can be on a very hard bunk bed and a railway track which is seemingly in great need of some maintenance.
Arrive in Lao Cai at 5.00 am on 30th Dec. Usual chaos and lack of communication leads to our waiting in a mini bus for 2 other passengers who are supposed to travelling with us to Sapa. The male passenger is Juan but after I have spoken to a French-speaking guide at the station it transpires that Juan is actually Sam, the Kiwi who shared the cabin with us from Hanoi. This little incident really sums up the joys of travelling in a Vietnam still coming to come to terms with their burgeoning tourist trade.
Eventually get under way for the fairly bumpy drive to Sapa.
Sapa is a mountain retreat at 1650 metres with a vaguely alpine landscape. Although the town itself is ethnically Vietnamese its shops and markets serve the minority groups such as the Kmong and Red Dao.
More on these groups later.
Book into a very pleasant Papillon Hotel, after which we spend a fairly sunny day walking around the town. As evening draws in the mist really descends on Sapa and the temperature drop quite dramatically, apparently the norm for thid time of year. To be fairly early to prepare for our trek the next day.
The Obese Ferret